The Rombauer story is the encapsulation of the California dream.

It is a story of how decades of earnest effort, being warm to others, having faith in the journey, and keeping the dream alive can pay off and be the foundation for creating an icon - it's almost like a Hallmark movie wrapped up in a winery. Today Rombauer remains amongst the most recognised of California's winemaking, and regularly ranks amongst the best - proving its embodiment of an almost timeless quality. Today we were really fortunate to have the head of Rombauer, Bob Knebel sit down with us to walk us through the Rombauer story, taste their wines with us and answer our questions!

Koerner and Joan Rombauer, with their two children, KR and Sheana.

Meet The Rombauer's 

The story of course starts with Koerner Rombauer.

If you're American, there's a good chance that the name Rombauer might sound familiar to you beyond the wine - one of America's most popular cookbooks Joy of Cooking, was written by Koerner Rombauer's great aunt Irma Rombauer. And so it's rather astounding that the Rombauer name would find its claim to fame once more with Rombauer's wines.

Koerner Rombauer had spent the first half of his life as a pilot - military and commercial. He had joined the California Air National Guard and would eventually fly for the now defunct Braniff International Airways. And yet after a thirty year career flying, Koerner and his wife, Joan, both California natives, with two young kids in stow, would eventually find that they had really wanted to return to a quieter small town, one that was preferably agricultural, where they could raise the kids. This led them to St. Helena in 1972.

Joy of Cooking now in its ninth edition remains one of America's most beloved cookbooks.

Little did they know that they were about to be right at the heart of a winemaking renaissance that would take place in California's Napa Valley - just four years after the Rombauer's had moved, California would capture the hearts and palates of the international wine community as a result of their impressive showing at the Judgement of Paris tasting which pitted California's wines against the best of France. And then just two more years would pass before the highly influential Wine Advocate by Robert Parker would begin to publish that shed a spotlight on California winemaking.

An Almost Accidental Napa Valley Icon

When the Rombauer's got to Napa Valley, they quickly got involved with the local winemakers, eventually even partnering up with Conn Creek Winery. This gave them the opportunity to learn everything about how to make wines. It wasn't too long before they began to dream of creating their own winery - and thus in 1980, they would sell their stake in Conn Creek and start building their own place. Thankfully Napa Valley proved to be a rather collegial setting and even without a vineyard or winery, the Rombauer's were able to get a start with fruit sourced from none other than the legendary Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, and were able to vinify at another Napa icon, Shafer Vineyards. This produced the first Rombauer vintage, a 1980 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Rombauer's original St. Helena winery.

The next 12 years would see Joan lead the sales team at Stag's Leap, whilst the Rombauer's would finally break ground on their own winery in 1982 at their St. Helena estate. As Bob tells us, the Rombauer's were advised to go for a larger facility because that'll last them longer and that they'd eventually grow into it - this proved to be great advice as they were able to open their cellars as an almost incubator that housed the early days of now celebrated names such as Opus, Dominus, Duckhorn, Etude and many more. From their own winery they would now produce their first wine - a 1982 Chardonnay, which would eventually become their most well-known label. 

Rombauer Till Today

Over the next several decades, Rombauer as a brand would grow steadily with an emphasis on classic varietals - Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, eventually adding only their second white varietal in 2014, the Sauvignon Blanc - first working with growers (they work with about 30 growers in the area), and then eventually acquiring their own estates, which allowed for better control of production, quality and prices. The Rombauer name would become household in the US, with the family choosing to largely focus on the domestic market, which as Bob mentions, they already had a hard time keeping supply up with demand. Into the 2000's, both Joan (in 2002) and Koerner (in 2018) would eventually pass on, to which Bob who was a founding board member was then asked to lead the company.

A new generation of Rombauer. (Left to Right): Ransome, Koerner's granddaughter; RK (pictured speaking), and Sheana Rombauer.

Today Rombauer has grown to 700 acres of Napa Valley vineyards (Carneros, Atlas Peak, St. Helena, Calistoga, Sonoma Valley, El Dorado and Amador County), with three winemaking locations and two tasting rooms. They engage in a fair bit of sustainable farming and are California certified sustainable, and are both fish and bee friendly. More recently, Rombauer has come under the Gallo family house, which has also given fuel for Rombauer to now pursue a more international brand name for itself - and thus you'll find that in key markets across the world, the Californian icon is now that much more readily available.

Bob Tells Us More

Now beyond the Rombauer story, there were of course many insightful tidbits shared by Bob. 

Bob himself had spent much of his career in the aviation industry, and it was through a charity event that he had become friends with Koerner. And thus having been family friends with the Rombauer's for decades, it made it a natural decision for Bob to helm the company when Koerner has passed on.

Bob Knebel.

Some of the most interesting things shared by Bob that stood out included how the winery constantly runs small test batches of new varietals, such as Barbera and Pinot Noir, the latter of which is now being scaled up. Much of these nevertheless can only be tasted at the winery itself. Bob also mentions that where possible Rombauer will continue to look to grow its estate holdings so that it can produce more estate grown fruit, although they do plan to still work with their network of over 30 growers in the area. He's also mentioned that the biggest concern that remains daunting for California's winemaking is water usage, which the winery has worked hard to manage, and as a matter of viticulture, only ever waters their vines when absolutely necessary, preferring to not dilute the fruit. And as far as the wine is concerned, much has been invested into using tested corks to make sure that the wines stay sound as far as possible, and that with age they're still more than able to remain fruit-driven. 

Let's get down to business!

Bob also shared with us several great moments he shared with Koerner, as well as the ups and downs of watching Rombauer fully take flight, and stories from around the vineyard and cellars - but, I think those are better told in person by Bob than myself!

And so with all that shared, it's time to walk through the Rombauer wines!

Wine Review: Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc 2023 

We're starting off with Rombauer's first new varietal in over 20 years, and also only the second white varietal after their cult favourite Chardonnay. Where the Chardonnay is going to be riper and richer, fuller bodied, this Sauvignon Blanc promises to be fresher, lighter and more elegant. 

This 100% Sauvignon Blanc comes from 73% Sonoma County and 27% Napa County. Fruit here is pressed whole cluster with the fruit still cool. Most of the juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks (89%), with just some fermented in a combination of neutral French oak barrels (9%) and concrete tanks (2%) to add some weight, texture and complexity to the final cuvee. Interestingly this one's bottled with a screw cap to prevent any further ageing, and so it designed to be enjoyed young.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Straw

Aroma: It's semi rich, still alittle ripe, giving gooseberry jams, pear compote, alittle bit of straw. It's creamy and builds on to guavas too. There's a prominent aspect of river stone and mineral that cups the bouquet, yet extending it quite a nice bit of depth and keeps it clean around the outline. It's giving fruit jams held in a wet granite mortar bowl. 

Taste: That creaminess and cleanness carries through to the palate. Still giving that fresh bouquet of straw, gooseberry jams and pears, here also adding in some fleshy white fruit of mangosteens. It's still moderately rich but alot more restrained here, tilting more towards lightness and a more crisp elegance, even as it holds on to some of that rich creaminess. It has this delicate quality, alittle higher toned and more crystalline. Some hits of pepper and passionfruit as well.

Finish: Gently crisp, some tartness as well, yet still pretty creamy. It's giving more of those gooseberries, guava, and here some muskiness of langsat fruit. Hay and sprinkles of pepper, it's a long finish, with more acidity coming through as the finish blossoms out. 

My Thoughts

This is light, fresh, much more subtle and airy (in contrast to the Chardonnay), yet it still keeps touch with some ripeness and creaminess that still gives it more body than the average Sauvignon Blanc. The fruits here are still lightly rich and gently sweet, certainly not heavy or fuller bodied, which then makes way for a wider bouquet of fruits to show up, mangosteens, guavas, langsats, with a more even split of acidity and crispness against the subtle richness. It's really fresh, long finish, and comes in more mellow and rounded than the standard Sauvignon Blanc. I personally find this aspect makes it more enjoyable than most Sauv Blancs which I tend to find alittle too light and high toned and so here I find that added richness and body I'm looking for.

Wine Review: Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay 2023 

The Chardonnay is of course what Rombauer is best known for, being first made in 1982 and having been made with fruit sourced from Carneros since 1990. The Carneros region has thus become synonymous with Rombauer, and is characterised by a cool climate with clay soils that support intensity of the fruit flavours.

To make this 100% Chardonnay label, the grapes are pressed whole-cluster with the fruit still cool (they're packed onto dry ice whilst they're being harvested), after which its left to cold settle in tank overnight before being racked into barrels (9 months in American and 35% new French oak barrels) for both primary and malolactic fermentation. Lees are stirred every 7-10 days, which is what is said to give it the rich and creamy texture.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Champagne Gold

Aroma: Definitely richer and sweeter, this has a riper bouquet filled in with pears, apples, mix of green and red, sweet apples and even some apple cores that gives it a little bit more acidity. There's also this almost herbal floral quality about it of manuka honey and pollen, chrysanthemum tea, alongside the raw organic honey. It's incredibly rounded and lush.

Taste: Much of the aromas carry onto the palate. Rich, honeyed, really rounded and lush body. There's all these pears, apples, peaches, baking spices and vanilla from the oak. A touch of pepper, this definitely leans sweeter with a fuller body that's really creamy with lots of depth. And yet it maintains this cleanness and precision, somehow it keeps that focus on its core flavours really well. There's some savouriness too, really firm and mellow, with some streaks of bright acidity. At times it strikes reminiscent of a Calvados or an apple or pear cider.

Finish: That herbal element becomes more prominent here again - herbal honey, pollen, chrysanthemum tea, manuka honey, camphor, eucalyptus. There's alittle bit more acidity and savouriness that comes through into the finish of apple cores and apple skins, all on this bed of honey.

My Thoughts

This is a fuller bodied wine, one that's very buttery and supple, incredibly approachable and accessible - particularly so if someone is just getting acquainted with Chardonnay, this would be a good place to start. It's rounded and lush, really creamy, and of course filled in with loads of orchard fruits that are all topped over a bed of honey. To my mind, it feels like the definition of cornucopia, this sort of overflowing lux of fruit and honey in some far off utopian Greek fantasy. This is certainly not your mouth splitting, bone dry, super lean and austere Burgundian white - and it doesn't pretend to be. This is super ripe, super rich, and I actually found it holds its own with food very well without being overpowered. With that gentle, streaky acidity, it almost reminds me of an apple cider. Ultimately, this is geared to be a crowd favourite and feels like a pop hit from the 90's that's always going to be a classic.

Yet what I like most is this herbal floral quality that comes through on the nose and especially on the finish, which I find almost evocative of chrysanthemum tea and manuka honey, which absolutely took it to another level for me.

Wine Review: Rombauer Proprietor Selection Chardonnay 2023 

This one's wearing different clothes! The last of the white wine segment, we have the Rombauer Proprietor Selection Chardonnay - this is Rombauer's Chardonnay at its peak, that is said to be created from the best barrels, finest lots, hand selected by the winemakers. The fruit still comes from Carneros, some of it is from estate owned vineyards. This is whole cluster pressed, fruit still cooled, with the juice settled overnight in tanks before being racked into American and French oak barrels (40% new) for 7 months where both primary and malolactic fermentation happens. It's stirred on the lees every two weeks. This is of course 100% Chardonnay.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Light Honey

Aroma: Drizzles of honey on pears, apples, peaches. This is leaner and more chiselled, giving it more elegance, firmness and detail, yet still keeping a good amount of richness. It's concentrated still yet more lifted, and definitely less ripe. Some wafts of oak comes through, where it's also not as sweet here, with a more pronounced structure too.

Taste: That structure comes through on the palate as well, cleaner and more svelte around its outline. It's filled in with apples, pears, apple cores. This is less fruit driven, allowing for some white florals to come through as well in an almost equal part. It's wrapped around a core of more savoury apple cider. Definitely more nuanced and sleek. 

Finish: More on apples, apple cores, dabs of pear jam, and some light honey as well. It's firm and supple with good concentration into the finish.

My Thoughts

This definitely feels like a more refined interpretation of Rombauer's Chardonnay - the core essence is there for sure, yet it also feels like its been chiselled down and concentrated to produce something more svelte and elegant, with more precision and detail. It's also clean around the outline, with a more pronounced structure. It also feels alittle more aged actually, with less of that bright fruit, and instead more savouriness and concentration. By trimming down the body, it does have the effect of allowing more florals to come through and stand alongside the fruit too. But don't count it austere, it still does have that richness and almost candied quality of apple preserves (as opposed to fresh apples), it's just less ripe, bodied and bright. It feels more grown up, and with more presence this time around.

Wine Review: Rombauer Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 

The first of the reds - this is Rombauer's Cabernet Sauvignon. A lot is said about Rombauer's whites, in particular about the Chardonnay (which has always been geared towards accessibility and approachability), and yet for some time now, it seems that it is the reds that have quietly won over the seasoned wine aficionados. And why not? The Cab Sauv was actually the first ever wine produced by the Rombauer's.

This label is composed of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc. This comes from vineyards in the St. Helena, Calistoga, Stags Leap District and Atlas Peak AVAs (the American equivalent of an appellation). The fruit here is destemmed and optically sorted, after which it gets cold soak extracted and then tank and barrel fermented. It's basket pressed before being racked into 75% new French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation and aging for 16 months.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep Ruby

Aroma: Deeply perfumed, also really vibrant and energetic. It's radiating roses, heaps of blackberry, coupled with servings of raspberry jams. It's bold yet elegant, cusping forwardness with style. Big, perfumed, super rosy, definitely leaning towards that really ripe and rich style that's also really velvety. 

Taste: Medium-bodied here, still very much giving those bouquet of roses that garnishes plenty of blackberries, raspberries, cassis, strawberries, in the form of fruit jellies and jams. It's rich, really plush and velvety, silky, and yet lifted and not heavy, still keeping a lightness about it. A blanket of grainy tannins sit below all those lush fruits and perfumed florals.

Finish: More on cassis, blackcurrants and blueberries that brings about more tartness and a gentle puckering. The tannins firm up alittle more here, yet remains gentle and fine. Some acidity holds up against the earlier richness. 

My Thoughts

This was quite the stature and presence for a wine - it's big and bold, incredibly perfumed and very rich and ripe. And yet it's also elegant and lifted, really plush and silky in texture, almost glamourous and glitzy with that energetic vibrance that it was radiating out. It's incredibly bold and forward, sensuous and yet structured, with great expressiveness where it's not just a bottle of fruit jam, and instead there are nuances that are made prominent for you to navigate around. There's just this sense of it being so much of a wine and yet it never feels daunting, heavy or bulky. Given that this is a fairly young vintage, the tannins here are still a touch grippy but the plushness on this is just pillowy and something else altogether. 

Wine Review: Rombauer Napa Valley Merlot 2022

Another classic international red - this is the Napa Valley Merlot. This also comes from a combination of estate grown fruit and fruit sourced from various local growers in Carneros. The soils here are as mentioned rather clay forward, and this is said to mirror Right Bank Bordeaux, which is of course famous for its emphasis on Merlot as well.

Rombauer has been producing Merlot since 1983 and makes the label by first destemming and optically sorting the fruit first, and after which it is cold soak extracted as well, and then fermented in both tank and barrel. It's then basket pressed before being racked into 35% new French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation and aging for 17 months. This is 81% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Dark Ruby

Aroma: This is immediately more mellow, taking a deeper and darker quality. It's still got that ripeness, although it is less perfumed here yet somehow conveys this more amplified sense of sensuousness and mystique. It's loaded with blackberries and blueberries, freshly tilled soil, topped with irises and violet florals.  

Taste: It's more plush and rich here, more satin like with this finely yet firmly knitted quality. It's really cohesive, and also leans richer and more jammy. It's led by darker fruits of blueberry, blackberry and raspberry jams. It's more weighty here, yet also more firm and taut in its body. Almost like a finely and firmly interwoven woollen fabric that's reminiscent of a Chanel tote bag with this deep and sturdy tension masked by this plushness velvety softness.

Finish: More of those blueberries, blackberries and raspberries make it through to the finish in the form of a fruit pate. There's also this spiced quality of cardamom and cloves. The tannins are gentle yet firm, leading into a clean and rich finish.

My Thoughts

This is a really sensuous one that really shines for its body and texture - it's dark, plush, yet firm and taut. It keeps that ripeness yet here takes on a more weight and a fuller albeit tenser body. It feels more muscular around its roundedness, yet at the same time being really sturdy. The flavours here too lean darker and more spiced, with more in the way of dark berry jams and fruit pate, deeper florals, along with these exotic spices. I found this to be really well-composed and it calls back to why Left Bank Bordeaux may be a crowd favourite, but it's the Right Bank that is revered and obsessed over - yet here it's interpreted in a more approachable style with alittle more ripeness, richnes and fullness of the body.

This was my favourite of the lineup!

Wine Review: Rombauer Zinfandel 2021 

Finally we have the California classic - the mighty Zinfandel! Zinfandel was actually introduced to California during the Gold Rush and has since become synonymous with the state. Here the fruit comes from Amador County (65%), El Dorado County (20%), Lake County (11%) and Napa County (4%). Some of the vines here are said to be over 100 years old.

This is composed of 92% Zinfandel and 8% Petite Sirah, where the grapes are destemmed, optically sorted, and then cold soaked before primary fermentation in tank. It's then basket pressed before being racked into American (10% new) and French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation and 15 months of ageing.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Dark Ruby

Aroma: Really ripe and much richer, it almost has a festive feel to it, with Christmas spices, cinnamon, cloves, vanilla sauce, garnished over dark berry jams, sauces and fruit pate. Blackberries, blueberries, plums, lingonberries all in the form of plush and decadent sauces. It also radiates floral scents of bouquets of roses. It's really sensuous and yet keeps a good structure that holds the ripeness in place. Some fragrant white pepper as well, along with gentle green tones of bell peppers and eucalyptus.

Taste: Initially alittle glossy, some greenness still of that bell pepper, which then lets up to more jamminess of blueberries, blackberries and lingonberries. It's concentrated yet plush, leaning heavier, all wrapped around a core of fruit jams. It's medium-full bodied, and on the body showcases a more savoury dimensions as well. It's entirely silky and supple, yet here it doesn't get in very deep.

Finish: Firm tannins, still alittle grippy here, with some of that glossiness staying on, as well as sprinkled in with some pepper. It carries through with scoops of supple dark berry jams that ride through the finish.

My Thoughts

This definitely leans towards a more ripe and jammy style as is that of Californian Zinfandel's. It's supple and heavier, yet here it impressively remains structured and expressive beyond simply being fruit driven. Here we get more spices, almost evocative of winter confectionaries, Thanksgiving and Christmas festive meals, and even berry sauces you'd find on pancakes. There was a sheen of glossiness over it that should let up with some age, though at this point giving green bell peppers, the tannins too are still a tad grippy but again speaks to its ageing potential. I do appreciate how this Zinfandel carries with it all those big flavours and yet seems to hold resolutely to its texture and structure, whilst also showcasing other dimensions of spices and savouriness that makes it feel that much more complete a wine.

Kanpai!

@111hotpot