One of the most hallowed grounds of Bolgheri on the western side of Tuscany is a 7-hectare plot that belongs to Masseto. This legendary 100% Merlot wine stands as a pinnacle of Italian winemaking for consistently achieving international acclaim and commanding astronomical prices. If anything, Masseto is the only Italian winemaker that sits amongst the elite names venerated by wine experts – the likes of Lafite from Medoc, Pétrus from Pomerol and Romanée-Conti from Burgundy. It is perhaps the most sought-after Italian wine in the world.

The first wine of the Masseto vineyard is one of the most renowned and sought-after wines from Italy. Yet it is made from the non-native Merlot grape.

To be precise, Masseto isn't a wine estate per se. It refers to only a vineyard planted in the late 1980s as part of the larger estate Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, founded by Italy's famed Antinori wine dynasty. These are the same people responsible for creating the groundbreaking Tignanello in 1971 - the original Super Tuscan wine that revolutionised Italian winemaking. 

Masseto wines actually come from a vineyard owned by the sprawling Tenuta dell'Ornellaia estate which focuses on producing Bordeaux-style red wines in Italy.

Now, the Ornellaia estate was first created to supply Bordeaux-style wine. However, the estate discovered a problem: it had a 7-hectare plot of land that had a very high clay content. This made it ill-suited for growing either Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc - the hero components of many Bordeaux-style wines. The Russian-American consultant of the wine estate André Tchelistcheff thought about this predicament and had a clever proposal. While the late-ripening Cabernets grow badly on cool clay soil because the soil further delays ripening, the early-ripening Merlot grapes grow perfectly on clay soil, where cooler temperature moderates the Merlot vine's development and extends the growing season to give the grapes more time to develop complex flavour.    

The then owner of the Ornellaia estate was skeptical at first. Back then, the potential of Merlot was practically unknown, while the most popular wines of the Bolgheri region did not use Merlot in their blends. After some thinking, the Ornellaia estate took the gamble on growing Merlot. And because this Merlot vineyard had such a different character from other wines from Ornellaia, its wines were given a separate identity: Masseto. 

The name "Masseto" is born from the unique soil dominated by the presence of large boulders of blue clay ("massi" refers to boulder) under the vineyard. This blue clay provides the perfect foundation for Merlot. Its mineral richness and remarkable water retention capabilities allow for the measured, balanced ripening crucial for this early-ripening varietal. Masseto quickly gained its own identity and prestige due to the exceptional quality of its Merlot, leading to its eventual separation as a standalone brand and estate within the Ornellaia portfolio.

The vineyard is divided into sections – Alto, Centrale, and Junior. The Alto has the highest elevation and is also where the grapes tend to ripen the fastest. It also delivers rich fruit, aromatics and great structure.

The Centrale is dominated by the iconic blue Pliocene clay where grapes develop slowly through the season, yielding intense, concentrated wines with heavier tannins.

Finally, the lowest elevation Junior offers a delicate counterpoint, ensuring balance and elegance in the final blend. According to Masseto, wines made from the Junior section are lighter and are used to smooth out the tannins from wines of the other sections. 

The "Massetino" is Masseto's so-called "second wine." Although it shares the same pedigree as its more famous sibling, it offers a slightly younger and more approachable expression of the estate's Merlot. The 2018 vintage of the Massetino is made with 94% merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc.

Let's give this a taste. 

Masseto, "Massetino" 2018 – Review

94% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc, Bolgheri in Tuscany, Toscana IGT Appellation, Soil: pliocene blue clay, gravel, sand and rock fragments.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Complex and intriguing. Opens with earthy minerality and clay notes that lead the way, intertwined with rich raspberry jam and a hint of slightly tart cranberry sweetness. There's a delicate tannic presence beneath the fruit, along with candied maltose and a soft, aromatic bouquet of dried herbs and tobacco leaves.

Palate: Beautiful cohesiveness and a vibrant energy that remains mellow and balanced. Generous red fruit jams dominate, bringing a medium-bodied richness alongside a subtle, growing brininess. The wine's energy never verges into volatility or harshness.

Finish: The finish reveals a light tartness and acidity, along with a boost in dryness and tannic structure. Tobacco leaf notes reappear, complemented by hints of prune juice and a touch of clove spice.

My Thoughts

The Massetino 2018 feels perfectly classic. While straightforward in profile, it embodies richness, intensity, and focused energy. The rich fruit jam character shines through, occasionally contrasted by earthy tobacco and clove notes that add depth. I was particularly drawn to the wine's vibrancy and well-expressed flavour profile, evoking a single, resonant note echoing through a concert hall. With just a touch more richness, power, and complexity, this would be completely perfect.

@CharsiuCharlie