Just In 👉 Melbourne's Iconic Caretaker's Cottage Gets Its O...

Wine Reviews

Lucien Crochet, Sancerre White 2021

 

We're headed to the Upper Loire Valley in France, to inarguably the most popular sub-region that is Sancerre.

What makes the Loire Valley so beloved with wine lovers is just the sheer diversity that the region offers - there's not the slightest inkling of a signature style or a "Loire-ness" I should say - the valley, wrapping around the river of the same name, is home to an incredible spectrum of small producers, each with their own craft. Everything from whites to reds and in between is produced in the Loire - and yet ironically, for the same reason, the lack of a singular uniform identity has meant that it's been difficult for the Loire's wines to fit into some sort of hierarchy with any sort of "King of the Loire" - and thus most of its wines aren't quite investable (though that has somewhat started to change in recent times).

 

The Loire Valley is also known for its beautiful Gothic style architecture and quality produce.

 

Yet all that means is that with the Loire, it's a haven that invites you to find hidden gems, many of which demonstrate high quality craftsmanship and are typically artisanal and made in small quantities, and at incredible value prices. Ultimately, the region, nicknamed the Garden of France, is vibrant but you've got to do your homework. Oh also, there's quite a tidy little revolution going on in the Loire - an organic one! When sommeliers go shopping, you best believe they're shopping for Loire Valley produce.

And so with that, as mentioned, we're headed up to the Upper Loire Valley, Sancerre in specific, and we're going to try something from Lucien Crochet.

 

Gilles Crochet, who today helms his father's vineyards, Domaine Lucien Crochet. (Image Source: Rosenthal Wine Merchant)

 

The Domaine Lucien Crochet vineyard, spanning some 35 hectares mostly in the Bué area, is operated by his son, Gilles Crochet, who has been at the helm since the early 1990's. The history of the vineyard nevertheless goes back to Lucien who unified his father's and his father-in-law's vineyards. On top of that, it was an enterprising Lucien who began bottling his wines and marketing them to fine dining restaurants in Paris in the 1950's. The recognition for Lucien Crochet grew, and eventually export was the next natural step. Today, Lucien Crochet remains highly regarded producer when it comes to Sancerre.

Gilles Crochet had left Sancerre in the 1970's to study oenology in Dijon, Burgundy, and had during his time practiced at the renowned Domaine Dujac, which heavily influenced his approach to Pinot Noir. He would return to his father's estate in the 1980's and take over in the early 1990's. He is aided by his wife, Laurence, and together they produce their wines in fairly small quantities but still embrace experimental vinifications.

 

 

The Lucien Crochet vineyards, are 3/4 planted with Sauvignon Blanc, with the remaining quarter planted with Pinot Noir - so while you should expect more whites from Lucien Crochet, they do also produce reds and rose. The terroir of the Domaine is characterised by a bed of calcareous clay rock and an Oxfordian subsoil (ie. stony soils with no flint and little clay).

With all that said, let's try Lucien Crochet's Sancerre White from the 2021 vintage. 

Let's go!

Lucien Crochet, Sancerre White 2021 - Review

 

Tasting Notes

Colour: Light White

Aroma: Fresh and full of bright but gentle green fruits - gooseberries, green grapes, pears, which leads on to white peaches, starfruit, always with a leafyness wafting about. There's brightness and acidity with the greenness, but not perfumed, it's alittle denser and more closely bound at first. Lightly dry, there's also flint and pepper, mineral water, and a soft honeysuckle floral. With time though, it blossoms into a light bouquet that's much more aromatic and subtly elegant.

Taste: Unlike its aromas, it's much richer and fuller bodied here, with more sweetness, bordering on syrupy. It's got a great richness imbued with peaches, yellow raisins, gooseberries, elderflower. There's light acidity to the otherwise liqueur-like sweetness, with a shade of greenness and leafy quality.

Finish: The sweeter body carries through along with the light acidity, with more on pears and gooseberries here. The green leafyness is more pronounced here.

 

My Thoughts

Superb richness and a fuller body, it melds in the green fruits very well, giving the elegant bright aromatics but with a richer almost honeyed body. This carries all of that through to the finish, with just a light acidity. This was thoroughly enjoyable and I loved every second of it. On the nose, it's gentle and light, but the big surprise comes on the palate, where it borders on floral and bright fruitiness taking the form of almost a syrup. What a gorgeous white wine here - so full, rich and so elegant!

  

Kanpai!

  

 

@111hotpot