Penfolds has been making waves – or should we say bubbles – in the Champagne world. Its history with sparkling wines actually stretches all the way back to the early 1900s at their Minchinbury estate in New South Wales. However, the modern Penfolds has its sights firmly set on becoming a global luxury icon, and reinventing its sparklers with the ultimate symbol of luxury from Champagne, France.

Since 2019, they've been collaborating with Champagne Thiénot in a move that’s perfectly in line with said ambition. The partnership brings together Penfolds' innovative winemaking philosophy and Thiénot's Champagne tradition and terroir-driven expertise. The team has already created several premium cuvées of Champagne, including the single-vineyard Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs, a 2012 Chardonnay Pinot Noir, and a non-vintage Brut Rosé.

Hot on the heels of these successes, Penfolds has just released its fifth Champagne: the Penfolds Champagne Cuvée Brut NV. Like the previous releases, this is the result of the ongoing collaboration between Penfolds' legendary Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago, and Champagne Thiénot’s team which includes MD Stanislas Thiénot and Chef de Cave Nicolas Uriel. The three winemaking experts have spent considerable time together to taste and craft these wines, both in the vineyards and at the Thiénot winery in Taissy.

 Penfolds Chief Winemaker Peter Gago and Thiénot Chef de Cave Nicolas Uriel (Source: Leif Carlsson)

Hang on a minute – so why’s Penfolds introducing a non-vintage white Champagne after a series of more premium cuvées? Well, it seems like it’s part of a well-thought out plan and a playbook perfected by French luxury giants. Think about it: these brands tend to first launch their haute couture collections, establishing their aspirational image, before following with more accessible luxury items.

Indeed, in a recent interview, Peter Gago himself has explained how this “top-down” approach has always been Penfolds way. While the modern era began in the 1950s with the iconic Penfolds Grange, their entry-level red wine, Koonunga Hill, didn't appear until the 1970s. The Champagne cuvées likewise began with more premium vintage expressions before moving to the accessible Penfolds Brut Rosé NV. This strategy has proven quite successful for Penfolds, allowing them to build a loyal following among both die-hard wine lovers and everyday drinkers.

The new Penfolds Cuvée Brut NV is crafted with a blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay and embodies Penfolds’ house style, showcasing fruitiness, freshness and finesse. It’s now available by the glass at Burnt Ends and Tenuta by Park90, and has already hit the retail shelves across Singapore.

But enough about the background – let's get down to the tasting!

Penfolds Cuvée Brut Champagne – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Lively and driven by mineral and citrus dimensions. Opens with citrus, yuzu zest and some biscuity, almost caramelised nuances. It’s a lovely balance between bright citrus fruits and warmer, toasty notes while also underpinned by a luscious sweetness reminiscent of honey jelly. A subtle saline note rounding things off.

Palate: Driven by a vibrant acidity – definitely more pronounced than in the Penfolds Brut Rosé. Opens with green apple and citrus zest intertwined with a subtle breadiness. There's a robust, dry tanginess lingering on the tongue, like biting into citrus peel.

Finish: Clean and refreshing. Lingering note of dried apricots and a hint of dried bread. A light zing dances on the tongue, accompanied by a very subtle yeastiness that reminds me of a light lager beer. A flinty minerality persists with a slightly chalky texture. Lemon zest remains present in the aftertaste.

My Thoughts:

A very flavourful and easy-drinking Champagne, offering decent complexity without any pretension.

It's quite vivacious and elegant on the palate, leaning towards the dry and lighter side with a delicate mousse. Yet, it's anchored by a substantial complexity of fruit and minerals, most evident both the aroma and the finish. The fizz is not overwhelming, allowing the inherent mineral and acidic character to shine through, along with saltiness that adds a savoury counterpoint to the overall fruitiness. This balance makes it a versatile Champagne for a range of cuisine or if you’re just looking for an accessible Champagne to treat yourself on Friday evening. 

@CharsiuCharlie