Distillery Spotlight: Akkeshi Distillery 

Region: Akkeshi, Hokkaido Prefecture, Japan

Akkeshi is so much more than its nickname "Little Lagavulin." The distillery is not content to merely imitate the Islay distilleries; it aspires to weave its own tapestry using threads from its local environs in Hokkaido.

It was the late 90s. In the vibrant and bustling district of Ginza, Tokyo, where modern sophistication meets traditional allure, a seemingly uneventful encounter occurred. Inside a dimly lit bar, Keiichi Toita, the CEO of Kenten Jitsugyo, a Tokyo import/export firm, had his first unforgettable sip of an Ardbeg 17 Year Old, the iconic peaty Islay malt with a sweet citrusy core. While peaty Scotch might have been an acquired taste for many new drinkers, Keiichi loved what he tasted. It was this encounter that sparked in Toita an enduring love for Islay malts.

Just as Keiichi fell in love with whisky, Japan was also beginning to experience a scarcity of high-quality Ji-Whisky (craft whisky) due to the sudden popularity of whisky highballs. It just so happened that Kenten Jitsugyo was cash-rich at the moment (according to rumours) and was looking to diversify its business beyond financial products and real estate. Keiichi noted that high end whisky had great investment potential, and tended to appreciate in value with age.

Keiichi recognised the growing demand for whisky, and how it might provide a new strategic underpinning for Kenten Jitsugyo. The company began exploring the option of exporting premium Japanese whisky. However there simply wasn't enough good juice to go around.  

It then occured to Keiichi – what's stopping his company from distilling their own whisky? And just like that, an audacious dream began infecting his mind in the summer of 2010. He wanted to create a Japanese whisky that would emulate the unique characteristics of his beloved Islay whisky. 

Hokkaido had a climate and terrain that bear remarkable resemblance to that of Islay's. It has a cool, moist environment frequently swathed in rolling sea fog – making this a good candidate for maturing Islay-style whisky.

The Pull of the North: Why Hokkaido?

Keiichi Toita began his search for a perfect site in Japan for his new distillery. Intuitively, he felt that the distillery had to be in the cool north of Hokkaido. Hokkaido had a climate and terrain that bear remarkable resemblance to that of Islay's. It has a cool, moist environment frequently swathed in rolling sea fog – making this a good candidate for maturing Islay-style whisky.

Seeing that Hokkaido’s West coast already held Nikka’s Yoichi Distillery, Keiichi searched for a place along the East coast of the island. He eventually settled on Akkeshi, a quaint town by the sea that is surrounded by wetlands peat deposits. This provided incredibly easy access to peat, should Akkeshi begin to make its peaty whisky.

Yet they didn’t break ground and order the pot stills right away. Keiichi wanted to conduct a test. In late 2013, a small maturation warehouse was built on the selected site. Barrels of unaged malt was obtained from Chichibu and Eigashima were stored in this warehouse. The objective was to study the effect of Akkeshi’s coastal climate on whisky maturation.

It was only after they were satisfied by the taste that emerges, that Keiichi decided to anchor his distillery dreams in this remote northerly town. All of this was a testament to a classic Japanese-style patience and thoroughness!

Akkeshi's Conception: Breaking Ground and Ushering in Pot Stills

Funnily enough, the chosen distillery site happened to be a popular spot for red-crowned cranes to perform their courtship ritual. In Japanese folklore, the red-crowned crane was also an auspicious symbol of fidelity, good luck and longevity. The bird was therefore incorporated into Akkeshi Distillery’s logo.

After seeing good maturation results from the test maturation (as mentioned above), construction began in earnest in 2015. But this venture was not without its challenges. How do you build a solid distillery atop soft and unstable ground? The wetland conditions presented significant construction issues.

Special materials had to be brought in. The ‘Columbus’ construction method was used, which replaces soil beneath the foundation with expanded polystyrene. This innovative approach made the structure stable and enhanced resistance against earthquakes.

Another critical component was being prepared nearly 6,000 miles away in Rothes, Scotland: the Forsyths pot stills. Crafted by the Scottish company Forsyths, the pot stills were a tangible manifestation of Keiichi’s vision – to blend the traditional Scottish production methods with the unique flavours of Hokkaido. These stills arrived in 2016, completing a pivotal stage of the distillery’s establishment. Akkeshi’s stills are pear-shaped resembling the stills of Lagavulin Distillery, are intended to create a heavy-bodied spirit.

Toward an "All-Hokkaido" Whisky: Local Malt, Local Peat, Local Mizunara

Back in 2016, the little-known town of Akkeshi was only known for oyster-production and dairy farming. While Islay was the inspiration for Akkeshi, the Akkeshi team’s ultimate goal is to evoke the local terroir, create an “All-Hokkaido” whisky or “Akkeshi All-Star” whisky that has a sense of place.

So, how does one do that in a place known only for oysters and milk?

We first begin with the water source. The distillery sources its spring water from the nearby Homakai River, which is naturally filtered through the peat and underwater vegetation of the marshlands.

Like many Japanese distilleries, the earlier batches of whisky from Akkeshi uses mostly imported barley. Both non-peated and heavily peated barley were obtained from Scotland, allowing Akkeshi to recreate those Islay-esque smoky notes. But for a truly local spirit Akkeshi will increasingly rely on its own land just yards outside the distillery, and the fields and bogs that surround the compound.

In April 2020, the distillery began harvesting its first blocks of peat from the ground near the distillery, an initial stride towards using local resources. The team has also started incorporating some proportion of Hokkaido-grown malt into their whisky. This was a sub-strain of Haruna Nijo barley (developed by Sapporo Breweries) produced in Akkeshi town dubbed "Ryofu”. It's a challenge to be sure, growing barley in the cool climate and short growing season of Hokkaido, but it's a challenge they are ready to face.

Another significant factor was of course the cask styles used to mature Akkeshi’s spirit. Akkeshi’s earlier batches of whisky used mostly ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, with a growing proportion of casks made from locally-grown Mizunara oak. The latter, a uniquely Japanese touch, infuses the whisky with distinctive notes of incense, sandalwood, and coconut.

The exploration doesn't stop there. According to the distillers, they intend to explore other unconventional cask styles, including red wine casks from France and Australia, rum barrels, ex-Cognac casks and even Sauternes.

The Distinctive Flavour of Akkeshi Whisky

Inspired by Scottish Islay production methods, Akkeshi’s single malts tend to be robust, heavy-bodied and peaty; a marked deviation from many other Japanese whiskies. More uniquely, Akkeshi’s whiskies also tend to have a distinctly sweet core, akin to sweet barley and corn syrup. This vividly parallels the sweet-peaty profile of Ardbeg and almost seems like an homage to the “unforgettable” first love of Akkeshi’s founder.

The distillery’s climate comes fairly close to that of many Islay distilleries, with temperatures that range between –6°C to 16°C, a frequent blanket of heavy fog that keeps the air moist, and a shoreline location that is exposed to the salty ocean breeze. The maturing whisky is said to breathe in the salty sea air and the misty morning fog, imbibing a mild maritime character also seen in certain Islay distilleries.

But Akkeshi is so much more than its nickname "Little Lagavulin." The distillery is not content to merely imitate the Islay distilleries; it aspires to weave its own tapestry using threads from its local environs. The surrounding village’s reputation in oysters and cheese production is a heritage that Akkeshi Distillery’s team looks to celebrate. Apart from Scottish methods and local Japanese materials, the team is inspired by the region’s specialty foods to produce balanced whiskies that could pair well with the village’s sweet and briny oysters, and creamy, robust cheeses.

There is an elemental quality to Akkeshi's whiskies, very much like its Islay forebears. The whisky taps into the land’s abundant natural resources, its peat, expansive wetlands, sea fog, local barley and Mizunara.

But far from being a mere imitator, Akkeshi offers the world a whisky that is as much a tribute to its Scottish influences as it is a genuine celebration of its Hokkaido roots and resources. In every pour, in every sip, Akkeshi offers not just a taste, but an immersive experience of Hokkaido’s culture and a terroir yet to have been fully explored in the whisky world.

Notable Akkeshi expressions

A rising sun in the world of Japanese craft whiskies, Akkeshi has already crafted an impressive array of whiskies that have garnered international attention.

While still fairly young, they released multiple batches of their new-make in the New Born Foundations series, which were all very well-received.

In 2020, the distillery made headlines with its debut single malt - the Akkeshi Lightly Peated Single Malt ‘Sarorunkamuy’. Offered in a meticulously designed 200ml bottle, this whisky uncovers a refined complexity, elegantly weaving notes of red fruits, toasted malt, fresh cream, and a gentle whisper of smoke. The bottle's name 'Sarorunkamuy', Ainu for the red-crowned crane, is beautifully reflected in the distinctive color scheme of black, white, and red that grace the bottle - a testament to its meticulous attention to detail.< kanro>

Later that year, the distillery introduced the world to Akkeshi Single Malt ‘Kanro’ - the first in its celebrated 24 Solar Term series. Packaged in a standard 700ml bottle, 'Kanro' offers a soft peatiness alongside the distinctive sweetness of strawberries. The subtle hints of sweet cereal and citrus only amplify the uniqueness of this offering. Both these initial single malts were matured primarily in a mix of ex-bourbon, sherry, and Mizunara oak casks.

Akkeshi has also ventured into blending, producing a line of acclaimed "Japanese-world blend" whiskies. The series kicked off with the Akkeshi Blended Whisky Usui, the distillery's first blended whisky, and continued with the Akkeshi Blended Whisky Shosho - a blend that won the title of 'World's Best Blended Whisky' at the 2022 World Whiskies Awards.

In the rapidly evolving world of Japanese whisky, Akkeshi Distillery has undoubtedly emerged as a trailblazer. Whether you're a whisky aficionado or a novice, any Akkeshi expression is highly recommended and a must-try.

| Read our review of the Akkeshi 2022 Taisetsu Single Malt

| Read our contributor, Japan Whisky Dictionary's comprehensive Akkeshi Reviews!

@CharsiuCharlie