Recently, I got the chance to check out Melbourne while visiting my partner for about two weeks. With a shocking lack of inhibitions and an absence of any functioning itinerary, I had two things in mind: To explore the local alcohol selection, and also as many cocktail bars I as I could. 

To that end, my partner was intent on bringing me to a bar that a friend had previously invited her to. With great curiosity, I braved the freezing Melbourne winter and found myself ... in a graffiti splashed back alley?

With the ominous-sounding name of Chopper Lane, you have to forgive me for being very mildly alarmed at where I was being led. Through a back door, I entered what seemed like the rear end of a beer pub, but instead, my partner ushered me up a dark staircase on the left, much to my confusion.

As I traipsed tentatively up to the top of the stairs, the sounds of glassware and merrymaking became more and more obvious. What we had walked into, ladies and gents, was Above Board.

Above Board is the quaintest little cocktail bar located just above the beer and bottle bar BeerMash. You might think it's one of those "if you know you know" places tucked away in a corner of Melbourne, but this hidden 16-seater bar was placed #44 in the World's Best 50 bar list in 2021. 

Before I get into more history, I have to introduce the visionary behind the sleek interior and elegant drinks. Coincidentally, this visionary was also the one that approached silently behind us on the stairs and scared me half to death with a stunningly loud and friendly welcome. Who? None other than Above Board's owner Hayden Lambert.

Prior to starting Above Board, Hayden honed his impressive bartending skills both in Europe and Melbourne, gracing the bars of places like Belfast's Merchant Hotel, as well as Melbourne's Bar Americano.

As he brought us into the bar, I was immediately taken by its intimate nature. Swathed in shades of shadow and dim, warm light, guests were gathered around a bartop not unlike a open-concept kitchen table. In a way, it made me liken it to an elegant tech-noir bar possibly found in the world of Blade Runner.

What struck me second, was the lack of any sort of backbar where I would've expected to see dozens of bottles lined up for guests to peer at. Squinting at every surface, it took me a while to realise that the bartenders were taking things out of the insides of the bar.

Much to my surprise, the entire setup had been masterfully crafted so that each cupboard behind the bar, refrigerated or not, was hidden away, opened only when the bartenders so desired. Even the well-organised bottles are exquisite glass decanters that are completely unlabeled, leaving bartenders to grab based on nothing else but memory alone.

As I would come to find out, this whole "out of sight, out of mind" character was something that Hayden really holds true to heart.

Speaking with him behind sips of his wonderfully curated cocktails, he told us that he simply disliked the idea of people judging bars by their featured brands, or even worse, limiting themselves to familiar brands instead of trying new things. 

"What I feel a lot of bars nowadays don't pay as much attention to, are the guests themselves," he said with a wistful sigh. "I really do encourage this environment where you just connect with the drinks and people around you. It's what this place is all about."

To that end, he's done so magnificently. In my few hours there, I saw at least two groups of complete strangers find new friends among themselves. After all, the open-top concept doesn't quite allow you to hide from a friendly smile, or overhear a particularly funny anecdote.

The staff were wonderful too, ensuring glasses were never empty, that guests were always happy, and conversations never ran dry.

"But enough about the decor!" you say. So yes, let me answer the questions burning on you readers' minds by now: How were the cocktails?

Inherently drawn to its base of Scotch whisky, the cocktail that drew first blood was the Better Late Than Never. Added to the Scotch is apple and chestnut, as well as white peach and lemon with an unexpected green tea element.

A few sips in, and I was starting to see how smashable each of Hayden's cocktails were, or as we in Singapore like to say "dangerous". It was bursting with flavour, the gentle hints of apple, peach and lemon developing on the edges of both your nose and palate, wrapped around a slightly smoky, warm whisky core.

The green tea must have added a burst of welcome dryness, as well as what I would like to imagine is some bitterness that is evened out by the chestnut's earthy, creamy mouthfeel.

Beside me, my partner was more intrigued by the Stitch Up, which had London Dry Gin, Lemon, Rhubi (Rhubarb Liquer) and Strawberry Milk Liqueur. Having a sip and a smell, I was immediately reminded of something like strawberry Vitagen (a prebiotic yoghurt drink) thanks to the star of the show – the Strawberry Milk Liqueur. The typically sharp piney juniper aromas of dry gin are nicely balanced against this layer of strawberry yoghurt notes, while the rhubarb added an unexpected tartness that effectively zinged up the drink and avoided it from becoming overly sweet.

Like a 18+ version of a yoghurt milkshake, it was a terrific pairing all tied together by a bright burst of citrus.

Made with Fernet Branca, Miso-infused syrup and Olorosso Sherry, it was once again a surprising drink with ingredients that you wouldn't have expected together. The Miso and Banana pairing is actually quite good, with a perfect balance of savory and sweet that is cut through with the bitterness of the Fernet.

The Fernet also isn't too in-your-face, and leaves ample room toward the end for one to taste the Oloroso sherry's contribution of notes of dried fruits like raisins, along with a nutty character that collaborates splendidly with the banana.

My second last drink of the night came at a recommendation by my partner, who insisted that it drew split opinions from friends that had tried it previously.

I recognised the mix of coffee liqueur, Amaro, Chinola (Passionfruit Liqueur), cacao cream and Shiso salt almost immediately. This was a take on an Espresso Martini! What was so interesting about it? 

As it turns out, it was probably the best Espresso Martini variation I had in recent memory. That lovely creamy coffee hid a complex botanical herbaceous-ness from the Amaro, while the Chinola added just a twinge of flavor and zestiness that was ended quite nicely with the bright and tangy herby-citrus shiso salt.

If you ever do go to Above Board, please try this. It's an Espresso Martini elevated with simple ingredients focused entirely on flavours that compliment each other in more ways than one.

The last drink of the night was something a little special that Hayden put in front of me. Not exactly on the menu, the blackberry-topped crimson cocktail was name The H.S.L Special after Hayden himself (Hayden Scott Lambert being his full name).

The cocktail was inspired by the famous "Bramble" created by bartender Dick Bradsell and the "Hugo Special" by bartender Hugo Ensslin. 

With a base of Amaro Montenegro, it is mixed with Creme de Mure (Blueberry liquer), lime juice, simple syrup and absinthe. Its ingredients are a little less experimental than the previous ones I had, but still wonderful nonetheless.

It was tart and mildly citrusy, with the Blueberry liqueur's sweetness really coming through, but not so much that it was cloying. The Amaro cut through this initial sweetness with an added herbal complexity, complemented by a subtle licorice/anise hint from the absinthe.

Because we still needed to have enough wits about us to stumble to a supper place, I had to begrudgingly leave Above Board behind. Exiting from the front entrance this time, I was again reminded of the hidden nature of this wonderful bar. 

So if you're ever in the area, take just a moment to look for a set of stairs in the back of a beer bar, take another moment to gravitate toward the sounds of people meeting people, and memories being made. And once you've gone above and beyond your planned route for the night, settle in and get ready for an absolutely smashing time.

Lok Bing Hong A budding journalist that loves experiencing new things and telling people's stories. I have 30 seconds of coherence a day. I do not decide when they come. They are not consecutive.