The best bar in Asia is Italian.

Bar Leone, a humble concept that opened its doors in mid-2023 achieved the virtually unthinkable and was bestowed Best Bar in Asia 2024, within the first year the first filthy martini was stirred (not shaken). 

Located in Hong Kong’s Central district a stone’s throw away from the Lan Kwai Fong area, it remains very much in demand with snaking queues forming just before its opening hour at 5pm. Like Anthony Bourdain famously said “No Reservations”, and the only way to get in, is by queuing, democratically and patiently waiting your turn. There is no cover charge or minimum spend and operates on a first-come, first served policy. Such is the ethos of “cocktail popolari” which means “cocktails for the people”, that envisages a local traditional third place, separate and distinct from the two usual environments of the home and the workplace. 

This unpretentious charming spot is inspired by Rome’s local neighbourhood bars where Lorenzo Antinori, founder and industry veteran, is from and reimagined for the cosmopolitan Hong Kong crowds.

Bar Leone may seem to have randomly appeared on the radar by happenstance, just as how Lorenzo’s career began in dreary London where he started out juicing lemons at the Savoy. He then honed his skills at Four Seasons Hotel Seoul’s Charles H Bar, and subsequently relocated to Hong Kong to work at the Four Seasons, first the Caprice Bar and then fortuitously at Argo during one of the most difficult times in F&B when the Covid restrictions were in place. Even in such challenging circumstances, Argo debuted third place on Asia’s 50 Best Bars in April 2020 under his stewardship. With the knowledge of his impeccable career, the incredible debut by Bar Leone seems less bewildering and a fitting tribute to his exceptional talent. 

Since visiting Hong Kong in 2023, I have returned at least twice a year now and from the first time I saw the Mortadella sandwich on my socials I was taken in. Alas I’ve not had any luck getting in especially after the Bar Leone achieved the hat trick of winning the Disaronno Highest New Entry Award, the Best Bar in Hong Kong and the Best Bar in Asia. 

Finally, on a cool Thursday night in March after dinner at about 10pm, I made the trip with a close girlfriend where we patiently waited for 30 minutes to score a table. There were public seats nearby, so it wasn’t too difficult especially in the very comfortable temperature of 16 degrees that evening. 

The bar from the outside is nondescript and you are only completely certain you are at the right place when you see people waiting around. We only found a tiny silver plaque outside the door when we went in that confirms you are in the right establishment.

The aesthetic of the bar features an eclectic mix of football jerseys, movie posters and prints of vintage Italian spirits. All these curiosities bask in the dim cosy soft lighting of the lamps and candles on each table. I would even add that the frames were artfully in disarray. Not sure if its intentional but it gave a very laid-back unstuffy vibe. Music wise, it was old school 80s vibes with Aha’s take on me playing. 

It’s a lively atmosphere with a good mix of locals and an international crowd. We could hear Italian, mandarin and Cantonese in our midst peppered with hearty laughter too. 

Our neighbours to the left were Italians that ordered Pilsner (not a single cocktail on the table) and to our right were two girlfriends having a cute catch-up. Everyone seemed relaxed and ready to have a good time with some appearing to be regulars too, a testament to their convivial hospitality.

To paraphrase Lorenzo, it’s not about the drinks and it’s not about the food, it’s about the vibe. Whatever the amorphous concept of “vibes” entails, they seem to have nailed it. I am already in love with the place and I am about to see if the drinks live up to the hype.

Unfortunately, we came a tad too late, the Tiramisu was no longer available, and we were way to stuffed from dinner to try the famed Mortadella sandwich.

Without further ado, here’s what we had.

The Goldenboy (Elderflower, Dry Sherry, Lemon, Orange Bitters)

The Golden Boy was surprisingly strong and it is one of their signature drinks. It’s an easy sip and comprises very accessible ingredients. Munching on prosciutto while sipping on this would have been fabulous.

Bicicletta Spritz (Passion Fruit, Aperol, Nardini Rhubarb Amaro, Sparkling Wine)

What’s an Italian watering hole without Aperol Spritz. Its stupendously popular in Italy and unsurprisingly it’s in the “Aperitivi” section of the menu. Why? Probably because these low alcohol cocktails are guzzled in great numbers during aperitivo hour, a national sport, in Italian summer. These are designed to cool you down when the sun is still up and get you right in the mood to get imbibed. Refreshingly pleasant version here and dare I say, faultless.

Appletini (Green Apple and Celery, Avallen Calvados, Bianco Vermouth, Lemon, Black Pepper)

The Appletini was by far our favourite. Garnished with an apple fan, it was crisp and clean in taste – a good palate cleanser. Also, the black pepper was unexpectedly a fun twist. Bonus points for not being saccharine sweet. 

Now most people would recommend having their Negroni. This is their speciality and is made with vermouth and Campari, along with their house-made gin, crafted with juniper, bergamot, coffee, and cacao. The sentiment is that it is rich yet balanced embodying the classic Negroni. This will definitely be on my list to next time I visit. There are even variations of this classic tipple, in addition to the Classico, you may choose to try the Yuzu or Sour Cherry.

Does Bar Leone live up to its title? Certainly, enough to warrant a second, third or even a fourth visit. But for the long queues, you wish this was your neighbourhood hang out spot.

The distinguishing factor is its people. One would think that a bar that has achieved so much could afford the air of arrogance where the staff appear aloof and dismissive, but not to worry, Bar Leone is quite the opposite. Warmth is keenly felt, and the servers are very attentive and even, enthusiastic. 

At its core, Bar Leone is bar that has stripped down everything to basics putting people at its heart where you feel like you are part of a community in a place which is quickly changing. 

What makes Bar Leone work so well, I would proffer, is that it’s the right bar concept for where it has sprung. Hong Kong is at its inflexion point where things are quickly changing and questions linger on Hong Kong’s current identity.

Bar Leone leverages heavily on nostalgia. This nostalgia while not native to Hong Kong’s culture is easily accessible given its global ubiquity due to its brilliant simplicity that made it beloved by many in the world. 

This nostalgia for a foreign culture works here as it offers escapism for the visitor. Further, the renowned Italian hospitality and by connection, the Italian family values, helps foster a sense of social connectedness. This heavy dose of nostalgia is particularly potent in a city that is often perceived as being gruff and stressful. I would imagine, such an environment would engender a stronger desire for a place offering some solace. It would be erroneous to think this concept could be transposed and attain the same accolades in Seoul, Tokyo or Shanghai. 

There are many great bars in Hong Kong but none quite like Bar Leone. The next time you visit Hong Kong, make the time for Bar Leone. It is perfect for spending hours casually sipping on Italian-inspired cocktails from the late evening before the sun sets all while being treated like you’re a long time member of the community, just as they do in Rome.