New Zealand’s beer culture is a flavourful stew, with ingredients of British pub tradition, a dash of European influence and American craft innovation, and to bind it all, a uniquely Kiwi streak of humour.

In pre-European times, the native Māori never had a tradition of brewing alcohol. In fact, they were among the few societies with no intoxicating beverages. In all likelihood, the first beer ever brewed in present day New Zealand was born of necessity around 1770s when British explorer Captain James Cook brewed a “spruce beer” to ward off scurvy (an old belief by European seafarers) on Resolution Island using molasses, and local rimu and mānuka tree leaves.

As organised colonisation followed in the mid-1800s, immigrants set up breweries wherever they put down roots. British settlers brought with them a love of dark ales, porters and hearty stouts, and these traditional English styles dominated early brewing in New Zealand. A wave of German settlers introduced their lager-style beers, while discovering that sunny northern South Island provided ideal conditions for cultivating hops – more on that later!

In those years, beer was liquid sustenance for labourers and settlers after a hard day’s work. Irish settlers contributed to a taste for stout, while Scots in the south embraced stronger ales. As a real demand began to grow, so did brewers begin taking their jobs seriously. The iconic Monteith’s brand traces its roots to this time period during the 1860s when a young brewer, Stewart Monteith, joined and became an owner of a small brewery called the Phoenix Brewery in New Zealand’s South Island where a gold rush was happening. Monteith cultivated a strong reputation for hearty ales amongst the local gold miners and townsfolk, and Phoenix Brewery’s bottles were labeled with the Monteith name, with locals affectionately calling it “Monteith’s Brewery”.

Speight’s is another brewery that was founded at the height of New Zealand’s gold rush in the 1876 by three ambitious brewing partners, including its namesake, James Speight, who left their jobs at the local Wellpark Brewery with a bold plan to start their own operation.

Speight’s big break came swiftly in 1880 when the brewery sent a batch of their best ale to the Melbourne International Exhibition – and won a gold medal for brewing excellence. This achievement was splashed across Kiwi newspapers and earned Speight’s instant fame. To capitalise on this prestige, the brewery renamed their flagship brew “Speight’s Gold Medal Ale”, which remains the flagship product till this day!

The Otago gold rush occurred during the 1860s in the South Island of New Zealand. This led to a rapid influx of foreign miners to the area – many veterans of other hunts for the precious metal in California and Australia. This naturally led to a thirst for good beer.

Despite being marketed as an ‘ale’, its copper hue and indeed its somewhat malty taste similar to an English ale, Speight’s actually represents a style unique to the country known as the New Zealand Draught. Brewers describe it as a lager masquerading as an ale – it is brewed with lager yeast and cold-conditioned to give it a crisp and smooth mouthfeel typical of a lager, but tends to use richer malt varieties such as pale and crystal malts that give the beer more sweetness and its amber hue that resembles an ale. Less hops are also added to preserve its sweetness.

Fast forward to the late 1960s to 1990s, consumer interest in older brands like Speight’s and Monteith’s appeared to have waned significantly. This could be partly attributed to the temperance movement that took hold in the early 1900s and continued to exert its influence for many decades through restrictive alcohol licensing laws that included the infamous “6 o’clock swill”.

Up until a historic referendum to relax the law in 1967, New Zealand’s pubs and bars essentially had to shut down by 6:00 pm sharp every day. Drinking was awkwardly crammed into the margins of the day, there would be frenzied evenings in which workers would dash out of their workplaces at 5:30pm not to go home, but to hit the pubs to guzzle as much beer as possible in the half hour before 6:00pm.

Restrictive alcohol laws in Australia and New Zealand once created a culture of binge drinking with the '6 o'clock swill' being an hour of drunken anarchy in pubs. Streets then became virtually deserted after 6pm.

Ironically, New Zealanders later became surprisingly protective of their beer heritage when the large beer companies that owned the Speight’s and Monteith’s considered discontinuing what they assumed were some old and forgotten heritage brands. In 1960, Speight’s owner Lion Company toyed with replacing Speight’s with a lighter beer called “Lucky” beer. Public outrage was so fiery and immediate – it turned out that the brand had gained a certain nostalgic status; for many southern families, granddad always enjoyed a Speight’s at the end of the day.

Lion Company reversed course and reinstated Speight’s position. It also wisely began investing in marketing that tapped into Speight’s association with hard-working southern people of New Zealand, with the slogan “Pride of the South”.

More recently in 2001, the owner of Monteith’s, Dominion Breweries, attempted to close Monteith’s historic Greymouth brewery in the west coast of the South Island and shift production to the cities. This was similarly met with public outrage. The company obediently reversed course and reinvested in Greymouth brewery.

Amongst the iconic beers of New Zealand, one was created directly in response to economic challenges faced by the country. In 1958, New Zealand’s government became serious concerned about a growing trade deficit and had to introduce the “Black Budget” which heavily taxed and curtailed imports, including imported beer like Heineken or Carlsberg. The New Zealand Finance Minister then challenged Kiwi brewers to create a European-style lager at home that could rival these popular imported beers. Lion Company rose to the occasion. That year, their Auckland brewery developed a new pale lager – a pilsner with a crisp, bitter finish, all-malt grist, and European noble hop character. The beer was initially unimaginatively named after the German brewing equipment manufacturer whose gear they used - “Steinecker”.

The beer was an immediate hit domestically. However, an issue soon arose: the name sounded a bit too close to “Heineken” for that Dutch brewer’s comfort, and a legal challenge was raised. Thus, the beer was later renamed Steinlager.

Steinlager became arguably New Zealand's most internationally recognised beer brand thanks to its strategic global marketing and consistent presence in sports sponsorships—particularly with the All Blacks rugby team. Many non-Kiwis even assume they are drinking a German beer considering how the brand name sounds, even if no deception was originally intended.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of New Zealand to beer styles lies in its ideal conditions for hop cultivation. Blessed with ideal latitude and soils, New Zealand’s hop growers, many of whom descended from those 19th-century English and German settlers in the coastal city of Nelson in the South Island, developed varieties with astonishing fruit-forward characters.

By the late 1900s, hops like Motueka, Riwaka, Pacific Jade, and Nelson Sauvin emerged, bursting with flavors of tropical fruit, citrus, and even the gooseberry notes of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Kiwi brewers began appreciating the unique opportunity they have to create a Kiwi take on the pilsner style – Emerson’s NZ Pilsner was the trailblazer. Some describe these bright and expressive hoppy Kiwi beers as the beer world’s answer to bold Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc wines.

Established in 1992 by the young Richard Emerson, Emerson’s symbolises the emergence of New Zealand's vibrant craft beer movement that appeared as a response to the dominance of mass-produced lagers like Steinlager. Born deaf, Richard had developed an extraordinary palate and love for beer during travels in Europe, and began to wish he could bring those beautiful brews back home to New Zealand.

And so, just armed with second-hand dairy tanks and a can-do attitude, he started his project in a humble garage to brew the kinds of beers he loved to drink – which meant flavourful, traditional styles largely absent in New Zealand then, beginning with English-style bitters.

A plaque that commemorates the first brewery owned by Richard Emerson, with a tongue-in-cheek joke that referenced his deafness. 

What truly put Emerson’s on the map, however, was his Emerson’s Pilsner which he introduced in the mid-90s. This beer was the first-ever lager from New Zealand that fully showcased the aromas of New Zealand hops. Whereas a European pils might use Saaz hops for floral, spicy notes, Emerson’s took the clean crispness of a classic Bohemian pilsner and married it with locally grown hops that give the beers vibrant notes of passionfruit, citrus and grassy aromas. Emerson’s pilsner proved that even a lighter lager style can be packed with character when Kiwi hops are in play. Thus, this marked the birth of the first NZ-hopped pilsner that inspired countless other craft brewers to make their own NZ pilsners.

Richard Emerson’s operation gradually moved from his little garage to a proper brewing facility as his reputation grew. Emerson’s eventually developed a core lineup of beloved beers; and with his humble demeanour and commitment to quality, the founder himself is now regarded as godfather of New Zealand craft brewing.

Emerson’s was eventually acquired by Lion Company, although fans were assured that the mega brewer would respect Emerson’s craft as something special and worth preserving.

By the 2010s, New Zealand’s craft brewing scene has matured into one that doesn’t just push boundaries through flavour, but through confident individuality, and a bold, irreverent, distinctively Kiwi humour in storytelling. There’s Garage Project which was founded by a talented video game designer – it’s incredible story we have covered in an interview with Jos Ruffell here. Come 2013, we saw the emergence of Panhead Custom Ales that taps into an edgy motorhead aesthetic.

Panhead was masterminded by a former motorcycle racer, Mike Neilson, who decided to set up a craft brewing operation with his wife in an old Dunlop tire factory with an industrial space fitting for the petrolhead aesthetic they envisioned. Describing themselves as tinkerers in the same way that mechanics would soup up an engine, they would take standard beers and turn the dial to eleven – their incredibly popular Panhead Supercharger APA for instance is an American Pale Ale that blows drinkers away with intense citrus and pine hops.

The brewery earned a cult following selling its intense beer along with a lifestyle of grease, speed and audacious creativity. In mid-2016, Lion Company acquired Panhead for a cool $25 million in what was then one of the largest deals for a small New Zealand brewery. The tiny passion project from a small city had become so successful that the largest brewing company wanted it in their stable. Today, Panhead continues to be one of New Zealand’s most popular craft brands.

Finally, the rich tapestry of New Zealand’s beer history wouldn’t be complete without mentioning, amid all the serious brewing, Wakachangi Lager. To understand Wakachangi, you have to know its creator: Leigh Hart, a New Zealand comedian known for his deadpan satire. In 2013, he decided to venture into creating a beer brand using the same irreverence he applied in comedy.

If you didn't get the joke for Kiwis, New Zealand wasn't founded until 1840. And no, Wakachangi is not the oldest beer.

Wakachangi is a brand wrapped in a completely fictional history that pokes fun at Kiwi culture and traditional beer marketing troupes. A label declares it as a “South Otago beer, with North Canterbury flavours, brewed by a West Coaster, with the ol’ misty waters of the Waikato – est. circa 1648” – almost none of these claims are true. Advertisements for Wakachangi also leaned into an elaborate joke – Hart concocted a backstory about an ancient beer recipe that somehow came into the hands of his great-uncle Kenny while he was exploring Machu Picchu. Hart would also make promotional videos that clearly contradict his own claims, for instance, claiming that he does not believe in “sex sells” advertising while being flanked by a bevy of bikini-clad beer girls.

Launched initially in the student town of Dunedin, Wakachangi beer quickly came to be widely consumed at student parties. And if you’re wondering what the “Wakachangi” name refers to, while vaguely sounding Māori, the invented word actually means nothing at all.

Wakachangi’s special place in New Zealand beer culture is built on how it skewered the pretentiousness that can surround craft beer, and probably appeals best to drinkers annoyed by others who take beer too seriously. The beer is brewed under contract at the well-known McCashin’s Brewery (also known as Mac’s Brewery), where Hart jokes that he oversees “quality control” by tasting every batch. To onlookers, though, it may appear like Hart spends much more time writing jokes about his beer than refining his actual recipe!

New Zealand’s beers, in their diversity, tell a story of a nation that has always been willing to try new things, tell new and unique narratives, and above all, come together over a drink. And with this background, let’s get down to tasting the 6 big New Zealand beer brands we’ve just discussed!

Monteith’s Brewing Vibrant Hazy Pale Ale, 4.5% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Appearance: mango with opaque haze suspension and light foam

Nose: Rich and tropical, presenting a basket of sweet ripe fruits; roasted pineapple, poached pear, tinned peaches, preserved persimmons and pink guava. A slightly fermented edge with savouriness – sweet soy note glaze, reminiscent of Mitarashi Dango sauce (sweet rice cake sauce). There’s a slightly dry and tart note that evoke Riesling-like characteristics and apple kombucha.

Palate: Medium-bodied, with a substantial mouthfeel that emphasizes rustic toasted grain flavors. Light apricots, maltiness, and toasted grain with grassy, herbaceous and piney hop character accompanied by a slightly musty aroma. There’s also a very light coffee note accented by a citrus zest that adds a subtle brightness. The overall palate leans towards dryness, with an indistinct, muted sweetness.

Finish: Light dryness and subtle citrus notes and cocoa adding a slight bitterness. An aftertaste of musty, grain notes with a slightly gristy texture right at the end.

My Thoughts: 

A beer that is interesting in both texture and the prominence of its hop aroma. The nose is particularly interesting, with a rich presence of preserved fruits like persimmons, a malic acid tartness and a rather evocative savoury component that reminded me of Japanese street food.

The mouthfeel is rich and substantial, yet the palate is perhaps too dominated by dry, gristy toasted grain notes. And while the tropical fruit presence is noticeable on the nose, I feel this component could be more pronounced on the palate. I’d say this beer is suitable for those who prefer a less sweet, less fruity drier pale ale with a focus on toasted grain notes.

Score: 5.5/10

Speight’s Gold Medal Ale, 4.0% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Deep amber with dense foam.

Nose: Rich, cereally and robust. Its malt foundation is immediately noticeable, reminiscent of freshly milled barley grains. A biscuity sweetness unfolds, layered with deeper notes of molasses and a warm, deep honey. Some rustic scent of rye bread along with subtle hints of dried apricots and toasted nuts. There’s also a light, piney aroma, grassy aroma that offers a delicate, balancing counterpoint to the sweeter elements.

Palate: A rounded and surprisingly crisp mouthfeel while maintaining a medium body with a minimal, pillowy foam that gently coats the palate. The overall profile is predominantly malt-driven, integrated with a crisp, light lemony note that lends a refreshing, almost spritzy quality. This is followed by a subtle, tart sensation akin to a lightly carbonated lemon-lime beverage. A very mild, clean hop bitterness emerges by mid-palate, providing a restrained balance without overpowering the malt's sweetness. A faint, underlying note of corn sweetness.

Finish: Notably clean and light on the finish, leaving a lingering impression of general cereals and a subtle, biscuity dryness. As the drier flavours subside, some warm notes of butterscotch, caramel and treacle emerge on the back palate.

My Thoughts

A solid NZ Draught. Speight’s Gold Medal Ale presents a very approachable profile with a delightful lightly-effervescent supple texture. Flavour-wise, this begins with an initial plushness before it begins to lean towards fresh lemony notes (exemplifying the crispness of the New Zealand Draught style) but is always balanced with a satisfying sweet malt profile before turning to a clean and satisfying finish.

Score: 6.5/10

Steinlager Pure 5.0% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Gold with thin foam.

Nose: Bright and crisp, with prominent coppery, corn-like notes alongside a noticeable yeastiness, reminiscent of a European macro lager. Crisp citrus and grassy hop notes add a layer of freshness, though the corn-like scent remains. A light touch of barley malt is present.

Palate: A light syrup sweetness is immediately apparent, accompanied by a bright maltiness and toasted cereal flavours. Light grassy hop notes, grapefruit, and other crisp citrus flavours create a refreshing, balanced profile along with a distinct yeastiness and light note of Marmite. Over time, darker notes of honey and caramel develop, with the toasted cereal becoming more and more pronounced over time.

Finish: Medium length, with lingering toasted cereal flavours and light, indistinct citrus notes.

My Thoughts

The Steinlager Pure Malt really is notable for its simplicity. It’s easy-drinking and really crisp an experience similar to a European macro lager. I’m not a fan of the somewhat artificial coppery aroma on the nose that I often find in many cheaper macro lagers. However, the palate proves quite drinkable, with a decent balance of malt and sweetness.

It's also interesting to note that more roasty notes emerge over time, which adds an unexpected layer of complexity.

Score: 6/10

Emerson’s NZ Pilsner, 4.9% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Pale gold with dense foam.

Nose: Bright and citric. Opens with ripe citrus; predominantly pomelo and grapefruit, with lemon peel dryness. Light straw, subtle sweetness of a creamy, vanillic note, along with bright floral notes of osmanthus jelly, lemon blossoms and a delicate yeastiness.

Palate: Medium bodied with a gentle, silky texture on the entrance, followed by a burst of aromatic hoppiness that forms a consistent backbone throughout the palate. The beer is so crisp and bright, with dominant citrus and honeyed sweetness, balanced by the presence of toasted malt and charred oak, along with an accent of passion fruits and pomelo peels.

Finish: A crisp and clean end. Lingering citrus peel notes along with dry, toasted malt notes. Light barley persists in the aftertaste, complemented by a subtle grapefruit pith bitterness.

My Thoughts

This tastes very much like a good quality classic pilsner with its robust hop influence, though it is elevated by its vibrant and aromatic New Zealand hop backbone that gives us this bright, almost berry-like fruitiness that certainly brings to mind a crisp Sauvignon Blanc—a really pleasant surprise. It's a nicely crisp and honeyed beer balanced with by an earthy, mildly herby character that makes it quite refreshing. The noticeable high definition of its hop profile (and more and robust bitterness) also sets it apart from lighter lagers.

While it's very enjoyable as is, there's potential for even greater complexity with a touch more malt depth, which would really round out the experience.

Score: 7/10

Panhead APA Supercharger 5.7% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Amber with light foam layer.

Nose: Noticeably rich and malty, opening with a bready maltiness, accompanied by citrus, pineapple and apricot, presenting a very classic American-style IPA profile in its richness, albeit without the intense punchiness of hops that is typical of the style. Caramel and toffee contribute to a sweet, malty backdrop while light jellied notes, Kyoho grapes and pineyness add some crystalline sweetness.

Palate: Balanced and approachable. It’s very plush and rich, opening with a bright maltiness and honeyed sweetness, buoyed by a very smooth effervescent character. Light citrus and orange peel notes are evident, alongside caramel and breadiness, with growing notes of citrus.

Finish: Rather short, characterised by toasted bread and a clean malt barley aftertaste.

My Thoughts

The Panhead Supercharger APA stands out as one of the more substantial and flavourful New Zealand beers we've sampled.

The nose is complex and evocative. On the palate, it achieves a harmonious balance between malt sweetness, citrus and soft hop-forward flavors, making it both layered and approachable for a wide range of beer enthusiasts. I find that it shares a very similar structure and format with the classic Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (SNPA) from California, though Panhead's interpretation offers a much more gentle hoppiness that makes it a more sessionable option and also brings to prominence the inherent sweetness in the Panhead. It's a well-crafted APA that delivers a satisfying depth though without the same level of hop vibrance of the SNPA.

Score: 7.5/10

Amazing Wakachangi Lager ‘Quite Nice Beer’, 5.0% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Pale gold.

Nose: Initially really subtle, revealing faint notes of maltose candy. Bright notes of golden honey initially, accompanied by a touch of toasted wheat cereal and barley, with hints of elderflower water, lemonade, lemon curd cream. It’s crisp, with a Sauvignon Blanc-like acidity, light minerality, and a gentle floral quality, reminiscent of freshly mown grass.

Palate: Light-bodied, with bright, crisp flavours tinged with a light malty sweetness and honey. A prominent, crisp lemony note, reminiscent of lemonade, dominates. The palate is straightforward but pleasantly drinkable, with moderate carbonation that enhances its crisp and clean finish.

Finish: Light floral notes, steamed barley sweetness, while a soft minerality provides a clean, refreshing aftertaste.

My Thoughts

For how light it is, the Wakachangi Lager presents itself as the clean daiginjo sake, or the Pinot Noir, of the beer world. It delivers a crisp, clean and effortlessly drinkable experience, marked by a pleasant honeyed and barley-forward note.

While it’s undeniably light, it does have a nice floral aroma - a subtle nod to New Zealand hops, and a very clean profile overall with no off notes whatsoever, which already sets it ahead of a generic macro lager. The pure minerality of the water is also a notable characteristic you could taste in the beer due to how light it is. One thing I’d mention is that while it’s a great companion to barbecue (as recommended on the label), I’d think that a touch more savoury or earthy depth would enhance its pairing with richer meats.

It may feel like Leigh Hart spends too much time writing jokes and too little time developing his beer recipe. But that’s entirely in keeping with the brand’s ethos. We’re not expecting a complex, mind-blowing brew, and that’s precisely the point. This is a beer precisely for those who prefer not to take beer too seriously, making it universally appealing and easy to enjoy. Criticising it for a lack of complexity might just be playing into their carefully constructed joke.

Score: 6.5/10

@CharsiuCharlie