The Morey family remains as one of the great houses of Burgundy, having established themselves in Meursault since at least 1793. And whilst numerous Morey's have done remarkable work that has underpinned their individual reputations, at least one of them has made it into Burgundy's all time greats - say hello to Pierre Morey.

Pierre Morey is probably best known for his two decades long work in establishing Domaine Leflaive as the top biodynamic producer in the region - a brave move and a pivotal achievement considering the region's past contention with biodynamics. Yet, even before Leflaive, Morey was already working on his craft. His father, Auguste Morey was a sharecropper of the prestigious Domaine des Comtes Lafon, which he later used to give Pierre an early headstart. In the 1930's, Burgundy was reeling from phylloxera as well as two world wars and an economic depression in its biggest wine market, the US, and so sharecropping (the act of leasing out land in exchange for a share of the harvest) became essential for the region.

As Pierre Morey came of age, he had now founded in 1971 his own estate - Domaine Pierre Morey. This would be 11 hectares of vines, two-thirds white, spread across Meursault, Monthelie, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet. His father, Auguste, had supported the creation of his Pierre's domaine by transferring him the leases to Domaine des Comtes Lafon's vines. However, this was not to last - by the 1980's, Burgundy was back in full swing, and the Lafon's would decide to take back their land. This resulted in a loss of vines for Pierre, which led to the 1992 establishment of a negociant business, Morey Blanc.

Nevertheless, Pierre's talents would soon be recognised as he was appointed the winemaker for the legendary Domaine Leflaive in 1988 (only departing in 2008). It was there that Pierre and Ann-Claude Leflaive would start seriously studying and practicing biodynamic farming principles. And thus it is no coincidence that both Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Pierre Morey had both become 100% biodynamic in 1997, with the two estate's largely tracking one another during the time of Pierre Morey's management. It was under Morey that Domaine Leflaive had produced some of its more celebrated vintages, which till this day underpins Morey's reputation.

Anne Morey.

Today Domaine Pierre Morey is managed by three generations of Morey's - Pierre, his daughter Anne, and her son Jean-Victor.

Whilst each terroir displays vastly different soils, Morey's vineyards tend to feature shallow soils that are also rich in iron and mineral deposits. His biodynamic work helps to promote microbial life in the soils, which aims to help the vines grow stronger on their own and more naturally resilient. All harvesting is of course done by hand, with vinification done in old, vaulted cellars supportive of natural yeasts to thrive and carry out fermentation. The fruit is gently crushed pneumatically, with the musts staying in the tank for 12 to 24 hours, with the best lees kept for natural fermentation. The must is the transferred to oak barrels where alcoholic fermentation takes place. After the first fermentation, batonnage is done 2-3 times a week, until the beginning of malolactic fermentation. The wines are then racked and put again on fine lees. Filtration is done depending on the vintage. Maturation typically last around 12-16 months for the Aligote and 16-20 months for Chardonnays. Bottling is finally done via gravity.

Domaine Pierre Morey.

Today we'll be trying something especially unique of the Burgundy region, and that has also become a fast rising star - the Aligote. Whilst prized Burgundy whites have for long typically featured predominantly, if not entirely, Chardonnay, Aligote has been making a serious comeback. Aligote was once thought of as having poor ageing potential, and would thus typically be used in the making of sparkling Cremant or in aperitifs. However, several highly esteemed vignerons have begun giving Aligote proper treatment and have produced some very impressive results, spurring a new interest in the local Burgundian varietal. 

This will be Pierre Morey's take on the Aligote. Let's go!

Wine Review: 2020 Pierre Morey Bourgogne Aligote

Tasting Notes

Colour: Almost clear, with a very light tint.

Aroma: It opens with green honeydew melons, really fresh and gently sweet, clean almost, with some other much more subtle assortment of farm fruits.

Taste: It's richer here, with more on those same melons, green pears, some light gooseberries as well. It's sweeter and more concentrated here, almost like a fruit syrup, very supple and rounded, even as the body leans somewhat lighter.

Finish: That freshness persists, here with some light fruit acidity coming through as well, with some gooseberry cordials. It's still very much rich with just a touch of acidity.

My Thoughts

This was really lovely! I love how especially this was able to concentrate the fruit flavours into this rich and supple almost fruit cordial or syrup that was coaxed in with all these rustic, farm harvested green fruits, which were delivered with such elegance and forwardness. This isn't one of those high toned, thin and musky whites. The richness here is absolutely sublime, with such a wonderful freshness on the nose, and such a plush texture of the body. It exudes a purity about it and is expressed with such clarity and evocativeness. Incredibly elegant!

Kanpai!

@111hotpot