Parés Baltà may have a history that dates back to the 1700s, but it isn’t exactly a Spanish grandpa’s stuffy vineyard. Located in the Penedès wine region of Spain, the family-run winery is one of the country’s most well-known natural and organic wineries, producing a range of organic still reds, whites and rosé wines, as well as the famous Cava style of sparkling wines.

The vineyards that surround the winery have a legacy that stretch back to around 1790, but it was the Cuisiné family who acquired the winery the 1970s and propelled it into the spotlight. Much of it is thanks to Joan and Josep Cusiné Carol, grandsons of the original founder, who assumed the mantle in the early 2000s and guided the winery towards the then-radical approach of producing organic natural wines.

The winery avoids pesticides and chemical fertilisers in farming and has no artificial irrigation system. This means that the only water the vines receive come directly from the rain or is taken by the roots from groundwater. The winery owns a flock of sheep that provides natural fertiliser, and even cultivate bees to pollinate the vines during the flowering season.

The five vineyards owned by Parés Baltà sit amids the mountains of Penedès and one by the coast – each boasting a different elevation and microclimate and are suitable for a range of different grape varieties. But most notably, the soils are rich in calcareous deposits, clay, and marine fossils which are known for permeability and low water retention. This creates a challenging environment that stresses the vines, leading to smaller yields at harvest time, but to grapes of exceptional concentration of flavour.

The mountainous Penedès wine region (Source: In Out Barcelona)

Another aspect of natural winemaking is of course the use of spontaneous fermentation process. While most wineries rely on specific strains of lab-grown wine yeasts, fermentation at Parés Baltà relies on the wild yeast already present on the grape skins. This leads to wines that are much more fruity and even a little astringent or slightly bitter. This process supposedly allows you to taste more of the grapes themselves. After vinification, Parés Baltà’s wines are stored underground stone cellars of the wineries. This includes an old cellar constructed in the early 1900s that keeps a constant natural temperature of 14-15ºC even during warm summers.

Now, Little Farms – that gourmet grocery store known for high quality produce and meats has been bringing in a range of organic wines. We recently headed down to the Little Farms’ Farmer’s Market and got for ourselves two still wines from the Parés Baltà range – the Cosmic white wine, and their flagship rosé Ros De Pacs.

Parés Baltà Cosmic 2022 – Review

Described as one of the freshest and perfumed expression by the winery, the Cosmic 2022 is a white wine comprised primarily of the xarel-lo variety that is native to Catalan and grown in the Parés Baltà estate. Most famous for being used in the production of Cava, xarel-lo contributes acidity, structure and a distinctive mineral quality to wines, reflecting the limestone-rich soils of the Penedès region. This is blended with a coupage of sauvignon blanc – also grown in the Parés Baltà estate, adding riper fruit flavours and a rich texture.

Tasting Notes

Nose: The first whiff is clean and crisp, like biting into a green apple. A citrusy zest of lemon peel follows, intertwined with a distinct coastal salinity that reminds me of the sea breeze. A savoury note, reminiscent of oily Parma ham, adds depth, followed by a flinty minerality that eventually gives way to a subtle yeastiness. A touch of grapefruit rind bitterness lingers at the back.

Palate: It’s a wave of freshness washing over the tongue, followed by a lightly viscous texture that clings pleasantly. It's a touch more robust and drier than I anticipated, with a zingy zestiness that awakens the senses. Minerality coats the palate while the green apple notes continue to shine through. An unexpected but gentle tannic grip emerges that seems pretty unusual for a white wine.

Finish: Short and clean but pretty layered. Light grapefruit notes followed by a persistent tartness. A cooling minty sensation follows, like a breath of cool winter air, and a subtle pepperiness tickles the back of the throat. Bit of pomelo adds a citrusy flourish complimented with the dominant yeastiness and brininess.

My Thoughts

This is fairly straightforward but it holds more intrigue than your average white. It's not just dry; it's very lively with zesty citrus peel flavours, complex pepper notes, and a remarkable salinity that reminds me of parma ham. It’s definitely an ideal companion for rich and light seafood dishes such as a seafood risotto or linguini with clams. Just imagine a sun-drenched terrace in a European summer, a glass in hand, and a sip of it with fresh scallops. Perfecto.

Parés Baltà Ros De Pacs, 2022 – Review

Next up, we have Parés Baltà’s flagship rosé wine. This is a blend of several undisclosed red varieties grown organically on the estate, which underwent a short maceration with skins to produce the iconic pink colour, before a slow fermentation of about 25 days. To make this slightly sweeter, fermentation is stopped a little earlier to preserve some residual sugars and prevent them from turning into alcohol.

Tasting Notes

Nose: It’s tart, but a bit less tart, sweeter and more balanced than the Cosmic. Opens with a clean and dry aroma, tart red fruits taking centre stage with soft raspberries and cranberries, their sharpness softened by a subtle sweetness not present in the Cosmic. A milder yeastiness lingers in the background along with just a hint of toasted almonds and cream.

Palate: Very lively interplay of fruit and acidity. Minerality and coastal notes echo those of the Cosmic, but it’s quite a bit more subdued here. The structure is robust for a rosé with a pleasant dryness that persists before a gentle sweetness emerges with fresh strawberry and raspberry notes.

Finish: Fairly short, with some indistinct red fruit notes.

My Thoughts

This is a well-balanced and effortlessly enjoyable rosé, with a fairly robust nature tempered with this delightful acidity that is also balanced by some sweetness. Another decent, unintrusive wine for a casual gathering with friends.

Final Thoughts

Both of Parés Baltà's Cosmic and Ros De Pacs offer a very pleasant summer afternoon drinking experience that go beyond the average white and rosé. These wines have a distinct character that makes them a bit more memorable – the Cosmic especially with its zestiness and minerality – and yet still remain quite easy to drink and very food-friendly.

The fact that they’re certified organic and very reasonably priced just adds to the appeal. If you’re looking for wines that are a bit different, full of flavour and won’t break the bank, do consider giving Parés Baltà a try. If you’re based in Singapore, feel free to check out Little Farms’ online store for these bottles and more organic / natural wines!

@CharsiuCharlie