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Wine Reviews

Tasting Two Laurent-Perriers: The Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature & Grand Siècle No. 23

 

As the story goes, the house of Laurent-Perrier was created by one André-Michel Pierlot in 1812. A former bottler and cooper, he decided to venture into Champagne production instead, settling in Tours-sur-Marne as a Champagne Wine Merchant.

In the Grand-Cru-Classified village, he would purchase two plots of land — Les Plaisances and La Tour Glorieux — where the legacy of Laurent-Perrier would begin. After his premature death in 1887, his widow Mathilde-Emilie Perrier took over the company. By combining her name with his, the name of Laurent-Perrier was officially born.

How Laurent-Perrier Invented "Brut Nature" Champagnes

A 19th century ad publicizing Laurent-Perrier's groundbreaking "Sans-Sucre" (sugar free) champagne.

During Mathilde-Emilie Perrier's time heading up Laurent-Perrier in the late 19th century, it was common for French drinkers to favour their Champagnes with a good amount of sweetness. The British, on the other hand, leaned toward a drier version of the bubbly. Recognizing that the British market for Champagne was steadily picking up, the House had quite an idea: to start making low-to-no sugar-added Champagnes.

Hence, in 1889, Laurent-Perrier introduced the groundbreaking "Grand Vin Sans Sucre" (Great Wine Without Sugar), the first-ever non-dosage Champagne, meaning no additional dosage (or sugar) was added to the wine before bottling. In doing so, they were the first to pioneer the creation of the "zero dosage" or "Brut Nature" category of champagnes - a drier style of bubbly.

Becoming The Largest Family- and Female-Owned Champagne House

 Stéphanie Meneux de Nonancourt and Alexandra Pereyre de Nonancourt run the house, making it the largest family-and female-owned Champagne house today.

After tiding through the heat of the First World War, Mathilde Perrier unfortunately passed away in 1925, leaving the company to her daughter, Eugénie-Hortense Laurent. However, due to the economic hardships of the interwar period, as well as the looming threat of World War 2, Eugénie-Hortense was forced to sell the company to one Mary-Louise Lanson de Nonancourt in 1939.

Despite the dire times, Marie-Louise Lanson invested heavily in the company, including mortgaging a hidden stash of 1,000 cases of Champagne (Unthinkably valuable at the time) to ensure the house's survival through the turbulent years of World War 2. After fighting in the French Resistance, her younger son Bernard became the heir to the family business and took over the reins in 1949 at the tender age of 28. 

Today, Bernard's daughters Stéphanie Meneux de Nonancourt and Alexandra Pereyre de Nonancourt run the house, making it the largest family-and female-owned Champagne house today. In 1999, Laurent-Perrier became a publicly traded company on the French stock exchange, although the de Nonancourt family maintained a majority stake of 57 per cent.

Today, we'll be looking at two of Laurent-Perrier's "Brut Nature" offerings: The Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature, as well as The Grand Siècle No. 23. Let's get to the taste test!

Champagne Laurent-Perrier Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature – Tasting Notes

The Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature is a 100% Chardonnay zero-dosage champagne, aged on the lees for 8 years. 

 

Nose: Quite green with lively sharpness taking the lead, followed by warm and toasty bread and a subtle salty yeastiness. Predominantly citrusy and dry, with passionfruit and lemon zest adding brightness along with just a touch of gooseberries and mangosteens.

Palate: Crisp, fresh and just incredibly light-bodied. Delicate mousse provides this soft, airy texture along with light citrusy and green appley notes, and then a fleeting note of light oak and caramel. It’s all reminiscent of a Scotch whisky highball.

Finish: A sustained and refreshing note of citrus peels and a touch of mint.

 

 

My Thoughts

This is really on the lighter side of things. A stunningly ethereal and refined Champagne that is certainly very Chardonnay-forward in its refinement.

While some might find it lacking in weight, I appreciate its refreshing simplicity and its lightness is a very refreshing trait in itself. The delicacy makes this wonderfully refreshing and very versatile.

This would pair best with lighter and more subtle Mediterranean seafood dishes or Japanese fare. Perhaps some grilled scallops or fish carpaccio.

 

Champagne Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle No. 23 – Tasting Notes

From the innovative mind of Bernard de Nonancourt in 1953, the idea emerged in for a cuvée that could remain prestigious even in years where the grape crops could not be vintages.

Six years later in 1959, the fruit of his labors was launched: The Grand Siècle. It would become the house's prestige cuvée, a decision which diverged from the regional convention that a house’s most prestigious Champagne should be a vintage.

The cuvée was named after France's "Great Century", a period in the 17th century marked by significant cultural, artistic, and political development. Curiously, the house also owns the revamped Château de Louvois.

14 years of ageing on the lees. 58% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir. Assemblage of vintage years 2006 (65%), 2004 (20%), 2002 (15%).

 

 

Nose: It’s sharp and lively, similar to the Blanc de Blancs. Though this time it begins with much more prominent mineral notes reminiscent of the coast and salty sea spray. Oily parma ham notes at the forefront, evolving into toasted bread and more salty yeastiness. Further enlivened by tart passionfruit, fresh yuzu and lemon peels, with a floral touch of orange blossoms.

Palate: Delightful contrast to the sharpness of the aroma. The palate is rounder and richer, with sweet fruitiness and a surprisingly soft and approachable entry. Effervescence creates this enjoyable silky texture on the tongue, while frutiness of green apples, passionfruit and muscat grapes take centre stage. The mid palate gradually reveals more brioche and subtle yeastiness.

Finish: Dryness peaks with an impressive tension and steeliness that is sustained till the end.

 

 

My Thoughts

This is a very captivating Champagne! It strikes a beautiful balance between crisp, refreshing citrus and a richer, sweeter fruitiness. Acidity is perfectly judged, giving us a harmonious interplay and still with lots of drinkability

Compared to the Blanc de Blancs, which I found to be much lighter and more ethereal, this Grand Siècle No. 23 has a very satisfying and substantial presence. It displays a weightiness and greater depths of fruit, likely thanks to the inclusion of Pinot Noir in the blend. I also appreciate how the acidity is so well-integrated; it provides structure and lift without ever becoming harsh or overpowering.

 

Lok Bing Hong

A budding journalist that loves experiencing new things and telling people's stories. I have 30 seconds of irresponsibly sanctimonious brilliance a day. I do not decide when they come. They are not consecutive.