Cocchi is basically the Beyoncé of the vermouth world. It’s the brand that single-handedly sparked the revival of artisanal Italian vermouths in the last decade, transforming the category from a dusty relic (relegated to the back of Nonna’s drinks cabinet) into the darling of bartenders around the globe as an essential ingredient in modern mixology. But let's take a step back for a moment. Do we actually know what vermouth is?

It's easy to get it all mixed up and just call any Italian-sounding bottle with herbs and spices in it "vermouth." But the first thing to understand is that vermouth is actually just one type of Italian aromatised wine. The confusion likely came due to vermouth being one of most heavily marketed term, and has become a main ingredient in many classic international cocktails. A bit like the IPA of the flavoured alcohol category – ubiquitous and produced by many brands. Plus, one producer could make vermouth alongside a whole range of other aromatised wines – just as Giulio Cocchi Winery does – making it even more tempting to lump them all together as the same thing.

Actually, it’s quite easy to remember vermouth's defining characteristic. Its name is derived from French people mispronouncing the German word for wormwood, the key botanical that gives vermouth its distinctive herbal, medicinal bitterness. This is to be distinguished from other well-known products in the aromatised wine family include americano, which gets its bitter, earthy kick from gentian root while Barolo Chinato is made by infusing the bittersweet bark of the Cinchona tree, the source of quinine, in certified DOCG Barolo red wine.

Wormwood is also a key ingredient in another famous drink – absinthe. But let’s not confuse between vermouth and absinthe as absinthe uses distilled spirit as its base alcohol rather than wine, and is thus classified as a bitters.

The herbal infusion aspect of aromatised wines might also lead one to assume they’re associated with Italian amaro. But again, amaro is a herbal liqueur, made with distilled alcohol rather than with wine.

And then even within vermouth, there’s a whole spectrum from dry and crisp to the rich and deep. On the left there’s light and dry vermouths. These tend to be pale yellow in colour and are all about crisp, dry flavours with herbaceous notes, and it’s the go-to for those looking to make a dry martini. On the other hand, there’s sweet vermouths that tend to be amber or deep red in colour and bring much richer tones of caramel, vanilla, dried fruits and warm spices. These are the go-to for those looking to make a Negroni or a Manhattan.

Vermouth’s popularity and beauty lies in its versatility. It complements the other ingredients of classic cocktails, but it can also be enjoyed on its own, served chilled or over ice with a lemon peel.

Three generations of the Bava family, including Roberto and his father.

But let's get back to Giulio Cocchi Winery. It has a history stretching back to the 1800s, and was founded by the visionary Giulio Cocchi who expanded the business using some of the most innovative marketing strategies.

Today, Cocchi produces some of the most important bottles in a bartender’s kit, such as the americano (often used to make the James Bond-inspired Vesper Martini), Cocchi’s respected Barolo Chinato, a richer traditional digestif that has consistently delivered through the decades, and the iconic Vermouth di Torino which was revived from an old recipe by current owner Roberto Bava in 2011 and which became acclaimed for garnering interest in high quality vermouths around the world since.

I was thrilled to experience Cocchi’s entire range firsthand at the Great Palate 2024 event in Singapore, organized by Malt & Wine Asia.

Mr Roberto Bava himself was present at the event.

Cocchi Americano Bianco (Gentian-infused White Wine) – Review

Now, let's get down to business and taste the first iconic drink of the lineup: Cocchi Americano Bianco, Cocchi’s iconic aperitif wine made from Moscato grapes. The "Americano" in its name refers to a focus on gentian, but it’s notably joined by quinine and citrus for further complexity.

I’m reviewing this in a simple but effective serve: a dash of tonic water and a twist of orange peel.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Immediately refreshing, citrusy and lightly herbaceous. A simple but pleasant blend of fresh, fruity and lightly citrusy aromas; yellow sultanas, dried apricot, poached pears and tinned peaches along with a honeyed sweetness.

There's a delicate floral note reminiscent of elderflower drink.

Palate: Sweet, clean, floral, with a very gentle touch of spice and but a prominent quinine bitterness that cuts right through the sweetness. Opens with a honeyed sweetness joined by fresh citrus notes that grow more tart and zesty over time, and the twist of orange peel really elevates this aspect, along with this earthy root-like herbal depth. By mid-palate, a prominent edge of quinine bitterness slices through the sweetness.

Finish: Long, with refreshing pine notes and a grapefruit pithy bitterness.The honey, orange marmalade and lemon peel notes continue to shine through, while the finish turns slightly more herbaceous.

My Thoughts:

This is incredibly sessionable and flavourful. It's a fantastic summer drink, and the bittersweet notes really accentuate those of the tonic water. This makes for a good low-ABV alternative to a G&T. A very versatile little trick up a bartender’s sleeve for adding a lot of flavour and character to a cocktail without adding too much alcohol.

I can see this making for a much more robust Vesper Martini with a sharper, more authentic bitter quinine edge, compared to using a much softer and inoffensive Lillet Blanc. 

Cocchi Americano Rosa (Gentian-infused Red Wine) – Review

Now, we move on to a more fun offering from Cocchi, the Americano Rosa. This is similar to the Bianco in its weight and its use of gentian for the hallmark bitterness, but the base wine is now Brachetto d'Acqui, a red Italian grape known for its vibrant fruit character that’s often used to produce sparkling wines.

Apart from gentian, the Rosa takes it a step further, adding rose and ginger to the mix, intended to create a more rounded flavor profile.

I'm keeping the serve simple for this review once again: a dash of tonic water and a twist of orange peel.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Much sweeter, fruitier and more confectionary-like while downplaying herbaceous qualities. Fresh, juicy red fruits take centre stage, with raspberries, grapefruits, and strawberries leading the way. A touch of citrus, but the red fruits really dominate. Light herbaceousness emerges along with hints of dried violets and lavender.

Palate: Sweet, rounded and smooth, really reminds me of an ice cream soda. Red berries from the nose carry through onto the palate, a minor touch of herbal notes and bitterness. What really stands out is the bright, airy vanilla sweetness which makes this so easy to drink. As it moves across the palate, the palate gradually dries, revealing dry herbal notes, light spices and some gentian earthiness. Very harmonious, very complete.

Finish: Continues with the raspberry and now some rose water notes, joined by clove spices and retronasal aroma of gentian root. The lingering spice and bitterness very well calibrated to balance out the initial sweetness.

My Thoughts:

The Americano Rosa is much more straightforward than the Bianco, but it really surprised me with its layers, balance and easy-drinking nature. It's like a much more refreshing alternative to the sometimes-cloying thickness of sweet vermouth.

This doesn’t feel like a classic, but it offers something very enjoyable. With just tonic water, it makes for a cocktail that's already balanced and complete. I think it’s perfect for those moments when you're too lazy to make a complicated cocktail at home. The bitterness is already perfectly balanced, so you don't need to add anything else.

Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Storico (Sweet Vermouth) – Review

We then turn our attention to the star of the set – the Cocchi Vermouth di Torino ‘Storico’. This series of Vermouth di Torino was actually discontinued by Cocchi in the 1980s due to a challenging market. Thankfully, it was brought back by Roberto Bava in 2011 to celebrate the 120th anniversary of Cocchi, and soon after sparked a revival in appreciation for traditional Italian vermouths.

Like the Americano Bianco, the Storico is also based on Moscato grapes, but this time, it's been infused with wormwood, thus officially classifying it as a vermouth. It is this style of vermouth that's used to make all those iconic international cocktails beloved everywhere – the Negroni, the Manhattan and many more.

Once again, I'm enjoying this with a dash of tonic water and a twist of orange peel.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Rich and indulgent, with tons of raisins and stewed cherries. There is a touch of vanilla as is often seen in many other brands of vermouths, but compared to other popular Italian vermouths, this one from Cocchi allows the inherent sweetness of the base wine to speak for itself rather than relying on excessive vanilla to amp up the sweet aromas.

There's also some mild nuttiness, reminiscent of almond praline, and hints of cinnamon and other baking spices.

Palate: Rich, dense, really smooth. It starts with a syrupy sweetness that reminds me of a mix of cinnamon rolls, Christmas spices, and the dried fruits of a Christmas pudding. Then, a distinguished earthy bitterness sets in, with liquorice, and a growing dry, tangy sensation of perhaps rhubarb.

Finish: Smooth, with a trailing note of spices, dry raisins, and mild leather. A hint of cocoa powder and a sweetness that verges on a cough herbal syrup note. But what's interesting is also the distinct orange rind undertone right at the end, which adds a welcome touch of refreshment.

My Thoughts:

I love how this vermouth offers a lot of indulgence but still remains quite balanced and authentic, especially in the way it allows the base wine to speak for itself rather than being overly spruced up with vanilla. This restraint allows the cocktail of botanicals and the character of the base wine to shine through, resulting in a more nuanced and complex aroma.

Of course, this is perfect for those richer classic cocktails like the Manhattan or Negroni, thanks to its robust depth that pairs beautifully with Campari and bourbon or rum. But compared to other vermouths that tend to have a more straightforward sweetness, spice and bitterness, I think Cocchi's Storico offers more balance and subtlety, offering some room for other ingredients in a cocktail to shine.

Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Extra Dry (White Dry Vermouth) – Review

Next up, we have the Extra Dry vermouth from Cocchi.

Like its sweet counterpart, this expression is also Moscato-based. While this is a “dry” vermouth and contains less sweetness, the character is almost completely different. Instead of being rich and spiced, this one has a much more brisk, Ricola candy alpine style. Botanicals-wise, apart from wormwood, it’s got peppermint, lemon, angelica root, coriander and cardamom.

As before, I'm enjoying this with a dash of tonic water and a twist of orange peel.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Fresh and fragrant, with an almost savoury quality. Light florals and chamomile paired with fresh orchard fruits, liquorice and the piney note of rosemary.

Palate: Vibrant, lively and not at all heavy, it’s crisp and really refreshing. Opens with crisp apple and a mild lemon rind note, followed by a fresh pineyness, sweet liquorice, a hint of star anise and juniper.

Finish: Most evocative. It’s also very fresh and fragrant, almost reminding me of warm, savoury focaccia bread with its aromatic cardamom and coriander. I even got a mild desiccated coconut powder note that gives me an impression of Nonya cakes.

Tasting Notes

Perhaps the most memorable vermouth for me. I love the fresh pineyness with that almost savoury quality. I also really appreciate how the subtle herbal and minty undertones add complexity without overpowering the main citrus profile, while that fresh, almost slightly savoury finish is so very evocative of my favourite foods like focaccia bread and coconut.

Really elegant, nuanced and almost salty. This would match with the perfect Dirty Martini to enhance those savoury elements.

Cocchi Barolo Chinato (Cinchona-infused Barolo Wine) – Review

And now, for the grand finale: Cocchi Barolo Chinato. This is where things get really interesting. Unlike the previous offerings which were all based on Moscato grapes, this one starts with the prestigious Barolo DOCG wine from the Piedmont region of Italy. Barolo, made from Nebbiolo grapes, is known for its complex aromas, high tannins, and aging potential. To this already complex base, Cocchi adds cinchona bark, which gives it the “Chinato” name and that bold bitterness reminiscent of amaro. Then, they also incorporate a medley of warm spices like cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and clove, along with deep herbal roots like rhubarb and gentian.

While the previous drinks were all mixed with tonic water and a twist of orange peel, I'm advised to drink this one neat, as I would a high-quality port wine or sherry. After all, the Barolo Chinato is traditionally served neat but slightly chilled and enjoyed as a digestif.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Indulgent, with red fruits and a captivating array of baking spices. There's a medicinal woodiness with a layer of sweetness behind it, and very prominent tart rhubarb notes, along side warm notes of ginger, cinnamon and cardamom.

Palate: Rich, syrupy and and medicinal, and a very dynamic journey through a range of flavours and textures.

Opens with raisins and even more prominent rhubarb notes taking center stage, along with just-as-present dark chocolate and quinine with a touch of sweet vanilla. Tannins from the Nebbiolo grapes make their presence known, leaving that dry sensation in the mouth. At the same time, warm festive baking spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger lead us down to more sweet caramelized notes of crème brûlée, before unfolding into a cleaner, grassy, honeyed sweetness.

Finish: Long, with a lingering sweetness of liquorice, honey and menthol.

My Thoughts:

This is like a cross between a Port wine and an Italian amaro. The tannins are surprisingly smooth, and it's a delightful bout of competing bitter and sweet notes that keeps the palate piqued with every sip. This makes for a fantastic dessert wine to enjoy after a meal in the evening.

While vermouth seems to focus on relatively brighter aromatic botanicals such as wormwood, citrus peels, and floral herbs, Barolo Chinato those incorporates heavier, warming spices, creating this unforgettably rich, intense herbal complexity.

@CharsiuCharlie