There was a time when Champagne wasn't the refined sparkling wine we know and love today. In fact, back when Maison Ruinart first began production in 1729, the sparkling wine they made wasn't even referred to as Champagne! Instead, it was known as the mysterious "vin de mousse" which literally translates to "wine with bubbles."

During the 1600s, the Champagne region was better known for its still wines - those non-bubbly wines of the Champagne region. Yet it was around this time that winemakers began noticing something peculiar happening after bottling their wines over winter, and it has something to do with the science of fermentation and temperature. You see, while winemakers knew how to make wine, the intricacies and the science of fermentation were still a bit of a mystery. So, when they diligently made their still wines in the autumn, sometimes plummeting temperatures would halt the fermentation process before all the sugar was converted into alcohol, and all of this stuff would be bottled and left in the wine cellar.

Dom Thierry Ruinart inspired his nephew to found the first ever Champagne house.

Come springtime, as temperatures rose, the yeast awakened from its slumber and kickstarted a second round of fermentation within the bottle. This created carbon dioxide, which, trapped within the sealed bottle, had nowhere to go but into the wine itself, transforming it into beautiful, sparkling wine. Initially, this unexpected fizz was considered a flaw in the product by winemakers. To make things worse, glass bottles would occasionally explode due to the pressure. These early winemakers even referred to it as “the devil’s wine”.

However, let’s not forget that this was the Age of Enlightenment, a time of intellectual curiosity and scientific exploration. This newfound thirst for knowledge extended to the mysterious "vin de mousse." Aristocrats and elite circles in Paris were fascinated by the bubbly stuff and always wanted to drink it. As the drink’s popularity grew, so did the desire to tame this seemingly wild, unpredictable bubbly drink.

Some of the more inquisitive minds like the Benedictine monks Dom Pérignon and his colleague, Dom Thierry Ruinart sought to understand this phenomenon. While they may not have fully grasped the science behind it, their observations and experiments laid the foundation for the Champagne we know today.

Dom Thierry Ruinart's nephew was Nicolas Ruinart, and in his younger years, the monk would often tell his nephew of the fascinating experiments that his colleague, Dom Pérignon, was conducting on vin de mousse. Two decades after Dom Thierry's passing, Nicolas, now a shrewd businessman, still fondly recalled those conversations with his uncle. He also observed the growing popularity of "vin de mousse" among the trendsetting Parisian nobility. This gave him a hunch: This bubbly wine had great commercial potential.

And so, in 1729, Nicolas Ruinart took a leap of faith and founded Maison Ruinart, which we now recognise as the first-ever Champagne house. Interestingly, the Ruinart family didn't initially dive headfirst into wine business. They were actually wealthy fabric merchants, and the enterprising Nicolas wanted to gift bottles of vin de mousse to the biggest fabric buyers.

The allure of vin de mousse proved too strong to resist. By 1735, Nicolas began seeing a brighter future in bubbles than in bolts of cloth! He decided to abandon the fabric trade entirely to focus on wines. These instincts were spot on.

The business flourished, and by the 1760s, they needed more space to age their growing collection of aging wines. And so Nicolas's successor, Claude Ruinart, made further investment by acquiring eight kilometres of ancient Gallo-Roman chalk quarries (or crayères) beneath Reims. These crayères provided near-perfect conditions for quietly ageing Champagne: consistent temperatures of 10–12°C, complete darkness, and minimal movement, except for the rhythmic turning of bottles during the riddling process. The porous nature of the chalk also allowed for slight oxygenation, contributing to the development of complex aromas in the wines over time.

The Ruinart crayères have been used continuously ever since, briefly being called into service during the challenging periods of history. During World War I, André Ruinart who demonstrated remarkable compassion, invited neighbours to seek refuge in the safety of the underground tunnels. He also set up his office within these tunnels.

When World War II came about, Nazi forces raided the crayères, looting Ruinart's entire Champagne collection. Today, these remarkable crayères are a UNESCO World Heritage Site that one could visit. Sadly though, no pre-1945 vintages remain in Ruinart's collection.

The Ruinart family steered the Champagne house for over 200 years before financial difficulties led them to sell the house to Moët & Chandon in 1963. And finally, in 1987, Ruinart became part of LVMH following the merger of Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy.

In the modern era, Ruinart is often referred to as the "Chardonnay House.” This focus on Chardonnay can be largely attributed to the direction of cellar master Jean-François Barot, who, in the early 1990s, pushed for a style of Champagnes that focuses on refinement, elegance and purity. While Champagne production traditionally relies on a trio of grapes – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – Ruinart elevates Chardonnay to a starring role, especially in its higher-end cuvées like Blanc de Blancs and Blanc Singulier which are exclusively made with Chardonnay.

Since 2007, Ruinart follows a reductive approach to winemaking championed by cellar master Frédéric Panaïotis. This involves minimising the wine's exposure to oxygen, preserving its freshness and purity. The wines are crafted in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and undergo full malolactic fermentation, a process that converts tart malic acid into softer lactic acid. To protect the wines from oxidation, nitrogen gas is used throughout the process. Ruinart also keeps the dosage low so that the wines retain their vibrancy and a subtle flinty note. Oak is rarely used, allowing the pure expression of Chardonnay to shine through. Of course, we can't forget the influence of those magnificent crayères. The wines are bottle-aged in these chalk-lined cellars for two to three years ageing to acquire those complex, bready, yeasty notes.

Unlike other Champagne producers, Ruinart’s bottles have an unusual round-shouldered design which are reminiscent of Champagne bottles originally used in the 1700s. This is a nod to Ruinart's heritage as the oldest Champagne house.

Ruinart is positioned in a fairly unique way by LVMH, appealing to discerning Champagne enthusiasts who appreciate the elegance and finesse of Chardonnay-driven wines. It's perceived as a step up from the more widely available brands like Moët & Chandon or Veuve Clicquot, but without the fanciful price tags of Krug or Dom Pérignon. The primary target aren’t end consumers, but on-trade buyers, such as upscale bars and restaurants looking for a high quality Champagne to serve patrons.

And it just so happened that I had the opportunity to spend a pleasant Friday evening at Astor Bar at the St. Regis Singapore tasting this glass of Ruinart Brut Champagne. 

This cuveé is a blend of Pinot Noir (40–45%), Meunier (10–15%) and Chardonnay (40%).

Ruinart Brut Champagne – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: The first thing that struck me was the vibrant aroma of lemon curd, followed by the prominence of freshly peeled lemon zest. A bready yeastiness slowly unfolds, intertwined with a subtle sweetness of plump Muscat grapes and crisp green apples. There’s a coastal dimension, an impression of light sea spray along with light chalky notes in the background.

Palate: A pronounced and lively initial zestiness and dryness, but balanced by the accompanying sweetness of green apples. This feels incredibly fresh and crisp, with a lively acidity that quickly gives way to a wet stones – a prominent chalky, slate-like minerality. It’s got a substantial medium-rich mouthfeel along with a pleasant, gentle effervescence.

Finish: Clean and of medium length, concluding with a more austere character and an impressive minerality. Subtly sweet lemon curd makes a reappearance but joined by prominent notes of chalk and flint in a mineral counterpoint. There’s also a refreshing hit of fresh mint.

My Thoughts:

I really enjoyed this Ruinart Brut. It’s a solid and fairly layered Champagne that is immensely drinkable. There’s a great deal of vibrancy and energy, beginning with a burst of dryness and lively acidity, turning to evocative fruit notes and light breadiness before transitioning into a prominent dry, mineral finish.

Overall, this is a well-crafted, substantial Champagne that offers both complexity and balance, and it would reliably elevate any evening event.

@CharsiuCharlie