This year, Penfolds is celebrating its 180th birthday in style with the Penfolds 2024 Collection. We had the privilege to attend Penfolds’ birthday bash in Singapore last week. And like my favourite birthday bashes above the age of 18, there are many wines involved. 

The Collection is a lineup of 26 wines, including the coveted 2020 Grange and a special anniversary wine, the Bin 180, made with exceptional grapes sourced from Coonawarra in the outstanding 2021 vintage. But here’s where it gets interesting: this Collection is something of a celebration of Penfolds’ status as a global winemaker without boundaries. For the first time, the 2024 Collection features wines from all four countries where Penfolds operates: Australia, France, the US, and China.

Leading the tasting is Senior Winemaker Steph Dutton, one of the key winemakers of Penfolds. We even snagged an exclusive interview with Steph (stay tuned for the scoop!).

After that, we sat down to dive into seven bottles representative of the Collection. We began outside of Australia – the first three are some surprisingly delightful blends from US, China and France that showcased Penfolds’ serious winemaking chops, proving they can conquer any region and terroir. After which, we journeyed back to Penfolds’ homeland to taste the most iconic Australian bottlings, including, for the grand finale, the crown jewel that is the Bin 180 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz.

We begin our Penfolds journey with a set of 3 non-Australian wines from US, China and France.

Penfolds 2021 Bin 600 Cabernet Shiraz (US) – Review

Penfolds’ ambitious venture into California began in 1998 with the acquisition of prime vineyard land in renowned regions such as Napa Valley, Sonoma County, and Paso Robles. To bridge the gap, Penfolds also imported a selection of vine cuttings from their esteemed Kalimna and Magill Estate vineyards in South Australia, planting them in Californian soil.

Among the first Californian wineries established by Penfolds was one nestled within the Creston '600' Ranch in Paso Robles. This region, sheltered by the majestic Santa Lucia Mountains, boasts a warm and dry climate that complements the cultivation of Shiraz grapes. It is in homage to this very vineyard that the Californian blend, Bin 600, derives its name.

The bottle we’re tasting is from the 2021 Bin 600, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Shiraz, sourced from vineyards in both Napa Valley and Paso Robles. This blend incorporates fruit grown from those original 1998 vine cuttings, carrying forward the legacy of Penfolds' iconic Australian vineyards. After vinification, the wine is aged for 16 months in American oak barriques, 53% of which are new oak.

The 2021 vintage for Californian wines has been hailed as one of the strongest in recent memory, characterised by a harmonious interplay of warm and cool weather patterns. According to Penfolds, the climate facilitated extended grape maturation, allowing the fruit to develop its full potential while preserving the all-important acidity and freshness that contribute to a well-balanced wine. Drought conditions led to lower yields, which in fact benefited the wine with smaller berries that possess extra intensity of flavour and tannin quality. These wines are presented by Penfolds to have great saturation, structure, and remarkable ageing potential.

Tasting Notes

Nose: The initial impression is one of oak, slightly austere and mineral-laden, before evolving into a captivating jamminess. Galore of ripe red fruits emerges, led by raspberries and fresh figs, with a delicate floral whisper of rose. As the wine opens up, the ripeness intensifies, revealing warm oxidative notes reminiscent of slightly burnt French toast. A savoury complexity shows up, evoking Parma ham and a subtle spiced touch of aniseed.

Palate: Really elegant and beautiful! It’s impeccably structured with a silky texture that caresses the palate. The tannins are remarkably smooth, intertwined with a vibrant interplay of flavourful red and dark fruits. Cherries and fresh strawberries take centre stage, complemented by a light yet distinct lactic raspberry yoghurt note revokes strawberry flavoured Creme Savers candy.

Finish: Medium length, with the oak gradually fading into the background, leaving a final whisper of strawberry yoghurt.

My Thoughts

This Californian Bin 600 is an absolute triumph! The overall balance is exquisite, and it’s got balance, structure and complexity. Tannins are present but so smooth and rounded, the jamminess and sweetness level is well calibrated against the subtle oak and oxidative character, while the unexpected twist of strawberry yoghurt towards the end adds a delightful playfulness that truly sets this wine apart.

I'm completely captivated by the complexity and balance here. Of all 3 non-Australian bottles in the Penfolds 2024 Collection I've had the pleasure of tasting, this one stands head and shoulders above the rest as my undeniable favourite.

Penfolds 2022 CWT 521 Cabernet Sauvignon Marselan (China) – Review

It’s impossible to ignore the intricate web of geopolitics when discussing China and Australia in the same breath today, though one thing’s for sure – these two cultures have an immense passion for wine. Penfolds' parent, Treasury Wine Estates, has been remarkably transparent about the significance of the Chinese market to Penfolds, whose transliterated name in Chinese – “奔富” (ben fu) – carries the auspicious meaning of “running towards wealth.” At its peak, China contributed to a third of Treasury Wine Estates' wine profits, with about a quarter of all premium Penfolds expressions destined for Chinese consumers.

Given this context, Penfolds made the strategic move to invest in locally produced, made-in-China wines to solidify its position in the market. In 2022, Penfolds unveiled its inaugural Chinese Wine Trials (CWT) range, showcasing grapes sourced from China's northwestern Ningxia region. The Penfolds 2022 CWT 521 we're about to explore is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Marselan, sourced from two remote regions of China.

Penfolds' Chief Winemaker Peter Gago visiting a high-altitude Chinese vineyard in the mountains of Shangri-La.

The Cabernet Sauvignon hails from the high-altitude, mountainous Shangri-La region of Yunnan, where cool, dry conditions create an ideal environment for ripening the grape. The Marselan, on the other hand, originates from the north-central China region of Ningxia, a region that has been embraced by Chinese winegrowers since 1982. The region is nourished by the waters of the nearby Yellow River, and interestingly, experiences such cold winters that grapevines must be temporarily buried beneath the soil by November to shield them from the elements. Following vinification, the wine undergoes maturation for 12 months in a combination of French and American oak hogsheads.

The 2022 vintage in Shangri-La was characterised by a dry and sunny August, providing the steady weather conditions that allowed for extended hang times. This extended period of ripening ensured optimal flavour and phenolic maturity in the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. In comparison to its predecessor, Senior Winemaker Steph Dutton notes that the 2022 vintage embodies a more pronounced Penfolds house style, showcasing a creamy, generous and warmer character.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Intensely jammy aromas bursting forth, overflowing with ripe, rich dark fruits and a heady mix of floral notes reminiscent of tulips, eventually giving way to a refreshing minty and herbaceous character. The bouquet deepens with oaky, earthy undertones, punctuated by a distinctive medley of spices – star anise, pepper, Chinese five spice, and cassia – which intertwine with a subtle savoury note akin to teriyaki chicken skin.

Palate: The palate is plush, ripe, and on the sweeter side. Opens with a rather dynamic sweet-tangy intensity reminiscent of both green and dry mango powder (amchoor) that quickly unveils a decadent core of dark fruits, notably blackcurrant, supported by fine yet persistent tannins and a persistent lively acidity through. Warm notes of sweet oak and sweet coffee emerge, followed by the resurgence of the five-spice character.

Finish: The finish perseveres with smooth, palate-clinging tannins and a continuation of the rich Chinese five spice theme, interwoven with white pepper and other spices – these spice notes are particularly highlighted the wine is paired with a sweet-savoury dish like honeyed char siu pork. Finishes off with a subtle minerality and a hint of iron-like character.

My Thoughts:

This wine is incredibly drinkable and flavourful, striking a right balance between ripe fruits, lively acidity, and spice. I'm particularly drawn to its liveliness and intensity; the evolution on the palate is quite captivating, beginning with the lively tang of green mangos before revealing a generous heart of dark fruits. It does evoke the essence of many well-made New World red wines with its delightful ripe fruitiness and the thick layer of berries characteristic of warmer climates.

In a room of wine lovers of every level of experience, this is an undeniable crowd pleaser and absolutely ready to drink now.

Penfolds 2020 FWT 585 Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot Merlot (French, from 2023 Collection) – Review

Just a couple of years ago, Penfolds embarked on a new chapter, introducing its first made-in-France wines. This exciting venture began with a collaboration between Penfolds and Champagne Thiénot, followed by a "world blend" collaboration with Dourthe Estate from Bordeaux. Penfolds also introduced the FWT (French Winemaking Trials) series, also crafted in the Bordeaux region. This series embraces a multi-varietal blending approach, utilising fruit from Bordeaux's prized sub-regions, including the esteemed Haut-Médoc on the Left Bank. Working with Bordeaux grapes is fitting for Penfolds, considering that the blending is a natural extension of Penfolds' renowned house style.

Penfolds' vineyard in Bordeaux.

The bottle we're about to delve into is the Penfolds 2020 FWT 585 Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot Merlot - Penfolds' second release in the FWT series. This is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, and 7% Petit Verdot, all sourced from the Médoc. Following vinification, the wine is matured for 12 months in a mix of French and American oak casks: 20% new French, 19% new American, with the remainder aged in one-year-old barrels. The inclusion of American oak is part of Penfolds’ house style, American oak favoured for its ability to impart boldness, along with warmer vanilla notes and a smoother mouthfeel due to its softer tannins.

Regarding the 2020 vintage for Bordeaux, Penfolds reports that it was characterised by warm and predominantly dry conditions, which proved particularly advantageous for the early-ripening Merlot grape.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Lots of depth, complexity and intriguing notes. Opens with a vibrant burst of violets and lilac, a clear influence of the Petit Verdot, accompanied by a prominent oakiness from the outset. This oakiness is well-matched by ample dried cranberries and black currants, which then intertwine with a subtle spice and acidity reminiscent of what I can best describe as the sweet tanginess of cranberry jam and, dare I say, Heinz ketchup. There’s also some rusticity with earthy notes of cigar boxes - just a hint of brett - and baking spices.

Palate: Structured and tannic profile, revealing this brooding, herbaceous wine with a pleasant warmth from oak-derived vanilla. Dark berry clusters with an austere minerality, are underpinned by firm and dominant tannins, which nonetheless maintain a smooth and powdery texture. It’s got a nuanced elegance of a Bordeaux, less upfront than the Californian and Chinese counterparts we've explored. The character leans more towards acid and structure than sweetness. Oak notes mingle with a rustic earthiness on the palate, evoking cedar and tobacco alongside a medley of dry herbs.

Finish: Enduring, with the firm tannins persisting alongside the black fruits and the warmth of oak and tobacco. Notably some fresh red fruits, particularly strawberry, seem to re-emerge in the finish, and come out with even more clarity after you’ve had a bite of some rich, oily savoury dish like duck confit.

My Thoughts:

While Bin 600 remains my favourite so far of the three non-Australian Penfolds, this bottle is undeniably the most complex and intriguing. It's brooding, layered with dimensions, fruit nuances and a rustic character. It leans away from overt sweetness, focusing instead on the austere notes, earthiness, and a slightly more pronounced oak influence than expected.

I think this wine truly shines when paired with grilled meats, especially those with bold herb or smoky flavours. Pairing would help to reveal tons of fresh summer fruits like strawberries and plums. The firm tannic grip is comfortable, but suggests that there is ample room for further evolution with time – to be revisited in the next five to ten years!

Flying down to Australia

For readers who have read our editorial's Penfolds Deep Dive feature , you'll be well-versed in the significance of Shiraz to Australia's winemaking industry. As Australia's wine scene began to mature in the 1950s and aspirations of rivalling Bordeaux took hold, it became evident that many of the classic Bordeaux grape varietals weren't abundant Down Under. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Malbec were all in relatively short supply. However, Shiraz (or Syrah) – the hero varietal of France’s Rhône Valley, was plentiful and thriving in Australia.

And so with vine cuttings from France, Shiraz found its ideal home in South Australia, thanks to the region's dry, warm summers and chilly, wet winters – a climate remarkably similar to that of the Mediterranean. It's no wonder that this rich, peppery, fruit-forward wine with its soft tannins became almost synonymous with Australian reds.

With his blending expertise, Penfolds’ visionary winemaker Max Schubert, helped to realise the potential of Australia’s grapes. He married the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon with the richness of Shiraz, creating some of the most celebrated "Cabernet Shiraz" wine blends that solidified Penfolds' reputation among red wine enthusiasts till this day. These iconic blends include the legendary Grange and the widely acclaimed Bin 389 (sometimes known as the “Baby Grange”). The Grange sits at the top of Penfolds’ large portfolio, and is often presented as the best wine Penfolds could make within vintage restrictions. According to Steph, however, many parcels of fruit that are used to make the Bin 389 are very high quality parcels that just miss out at being included in Grange following a stringent voting process amongst Penfolds’ winemakers.

Of course, Cabernet Sauvignon remains a perennial favourite among red wine aficionados, which was why the Bin 707 was created to showcase Cabernet Sauvignon as a 100% single varietal expression. The Bin 707 is one of Penfolds' most sought-after labels, with great demand but very limited availability due to the temperamental nature of Cabernet Sauvignon cultivation. Some years, the Penfolds team is even forced to skip vintages for the 707.

Max Shubert became a wine celebrity with The Grange.

This year marks Penfolds' 180th anniversary, and the crowning jewel of this milestone is the 2021 vintage Bin 180 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz , specially crafted to commemorate this momentous occasion. This exceptional wine takes the winning formula blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, but sourced the grapes from the outstanding 2021 harvest of two blocks within Penfolds' esteemed vineyards in the Coonawarra region. Alongside the revered Penfolds Grange, the Bin 180 proudly takes its place as a luxury, premium bottling in the Penfolds 2024 Collection.

With this backdrop, let’s embark on a tasting journey through these four exceptional Penfolds wines from the 2024 Collection.

Penfolds 2022 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz (Australia) – Review

“Baby Grange”, 51% Cabernet Sauvignon & 49% Shiraz, aged for 12 months in American hogsheads, 36% of which are new.

Tasting Notes

Nose: A nice balance of perfumed elegance and structured depth. Ripe red fruits, strawberries, and cranberries mingle with floral notes of lilac, reminiscent of Marks & Spencer's redcurrant puffs. A generous dusting of black pepper adds a touch of spice, while rich, deep tones of sweet oak, wood lacquer, and a subtle complexity of old library books (often referred to as "vellichor").

Palate: Despite its density, the wine glides effortlessly across the palate. A concentrated core of black fruits enveloped in smooth, deep, and powdery tannins. Lots of refined and polished blackcurrants, plums, and prunes, their sweetness harmoniously balanced by a lively acidity and dense layer of tannins that adds lift and vibrancy. There’s a very mild bready character that emerges, gradually transitioning into herbaceous and minty notes as the wine evolves.

Finish: Long and persistent, with a lingering minty freshness. Fading hints of liquorice and black pepper intertwine with the tartness of sour morello cherries and plums. The tannins, though present, are remarkably well-integrated.

My Thoughts:

Just a lovely bottle. The nose showcases the classic Penfolds character, but it truly shines on the palate with unexpected elegance and expressiveness, offering a polished and rich experience, underpinned by remarkably soft and smooth tannins and a sustained finish. All in all, it’s a robust Cab Shiraz with impressive flavourfulness and remarkable drinkability for its category.

Penfolds 2022 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon (Australia) – Review

100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 months in American oak (100% new).

Tasting Notes

Nose: Complex, balanced. It opens with a straightforward presentation of dark fruits, complemented by distinct oxidative savoury notes reminiscent of balsamic vinegar and a subtle hint of slate. Oak influence takes centre stage, showcasing the wine's maturation in 100% new oak. Pencil shavings mingle with a generous dose of cinnamon, Vietnamese robusta coffee laced with liquorice. A blend of indistinct dried herbs and heather adds further depth, wrapped with a counterpoint of mineral sweetness and dark chocolate.

Palate: Opulent, dense and fruit-forward, yet not very sweet. Red fruits, particularly raspberries, intertwine with the oak's vanilla notes. The texture is impressive - supple, velvety, and luxuriously smooth. As the flavours unfold, darker notes of liquorice and dark chocolate emerge, leading to denser, slightly savoury elements of meatiness, earthiness, and nuttiness. Black pepper, allspice, and nutmeg add a touch of warmth, though somewhat restrained at this stage.

Finish: Long, defined by lingering soft tannins, liquorice, and a persistent but manageable spiciness.

My Thoughts:

This Bin 707 is rich, layered, and particularly impressive in its tannin management and supple texture. The nose is wonderfully expressive, but the palate, while showing great potential, feels a bit restrained at this stage, which is to be expected from a 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon. It ticks nearly all the boxes for a great Cabernet – rich aromatics, dense palate, smooth tannins and promising structure with fruit concentration. With a few more years of cellaring, perhaps 2 to 5, this wine will undoubtedly blossom into its full glory. In fact, Penfolds recommends a peak drinking window of 2026-2050 for this bottle, so our patience will be richly rewarded.

Penfolds 2020 Grange (Australia) – Review

97% Shiraz and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 20 months in new American oak hogsheads (100% new).

Tasting Notes

Nose: Complex and concentrated. A blend of tart, sour, and subtly sweet dark fruits, reminiscent of plums and blueberries mingling with the umami depth of aged soy sauce. Liquorice, aniseed, and fennel spices create a warm, inviting undercurrent, gradually giving way to sweet floral notes of violets and a fleeting touch of magic marker.

Palate: Unfolds beautifully. The initial impression on the palate is soft and rounded, a medley of stewed fruits like raspberries, cranberries, and maraschino cherries. Fruit flavours intertwine seamlessly with firm tannins and a persistent liquorice note, a harmonious balance between fruitiness and structure. Oak integration is impeccable, and there’s a layer of dark chocolate shavings and a refreshing aroma of mint, along with a subtle, arid touch reminiscent of burnt tyre rubber.

As the wine lingers on the palate, layers of stewed fruits and tannins gradually build in power and intensity, evolving beautifully with each sip. Some more oak complexities reveal with a hint of dry herbs, a touch of soot, along with the light aroma of rattan wood.

Finish: Dense and powerful, leaving a lingering impression of red and dark fruits, with fruit lusciousness coming to the forefront. The tannins remain prominent, yet remarkably gentle and smooth.

My Thoughts:

Beautifully complex and refined. The nose is rather intriguing, but it's the palate that truly steals the show with its graceful evolution. The wine begins with an ethereal delicate feel, gradually gathering strength and power to reveal a symphony of plush, substantial fruits and supportive aromatic oakiness—all impeccably integrated. The tannins also maintain a firm hold while the texture remains velvety throughout.

While undeniably impressive and very drinkable now, I believe this wine has a much greater story to tell with time. The underlying power and structure suggest that it possesses a remarkable potential for further development in the coming 5 to 10 years. I envision the existing dark fruit flavours deepening and expanding, while a touch of tertiary notes will add a lot of harmony. This Grange isn’t just a wine for today, but a promise of what it can become with a decade of patience and cellaring.

Penfolds 2021 Bin 180 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz (Australia) – Review

Coonawarra Penfolds Blocks 10 and 5, 57% Cabernet Sauvignon & 43% Shiraz, aged for 16 months in second use French oak hogsheads.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Intriguing and alluring, unfolds with layers of subtleties. A burst of tart but luscious blueberries and plums intertwines with the brightness of cherries. There’s a bit of greenness and herbaceousness that emerges, some jasmine flowers, followed by delicate spices evocative of cinnamon bark and pink peppercorn. Mild nuances of tobacco along with some smoked salmon brininess, a layer of exotic Levantine spices like pistachio, lemon zest and other aromatic elements remind me of Baklava with salted Greek honey.

Palate: Opening with a smooth and luxurious texture that balances richness with an impressive evolving range, like an Olympic figure skater’s graceful yet powerful movements. Tannins are firm and structured, providing a framework for silky oak, bright acidity, and a concentrated essence of blackcurrant. Despite the power and intensity, the palate remains remarkably clean and luscious, with an undercurrent of slate and minerals adding a refreshing counterpoint.

Finish: Medium in length, not overly long, but vibrant and lively while it lasts. A burst of tart red fruits balances the wine's inherent richness, complemented by a delightful sprinkle of Christmas spices.

My Thoughts:

The 2021 Bin 180 is a remarkable tribute to Penfolds' 180th anniversary, and I reckon, a wine that will be cherished for decades to come, perhaps even gracing the table at Penfolds' bicentennial celebration two decades down the road.

It’s obviously a wine that’s made to age gracefully, but even now, it’s immensely enjoyable and drinkable. It has exquisite proportion and balance, focusing on elegance and precision over brute force. It evolves beautifully and the decision to not age this in new oak helps to surface lots of fruit purity. There’s remarkable depth and concentration while maintaining a sense of lightness and elegance.

Of course, this wine’s true potential will only be fully realised with patience. But with this level of precision and acidity, more fruit purity will continue to blossom over time. So if you're searching for the perfect gift for the person who has everything, look no further. This is a splendid addition to any cellar and will for sure evolve into an even more extraordinary wine in the years to come.

Final Thoughts on Penfolds’ 2024 Collection

Penfolds has always been a trailblazer in Australian winemaking, pushing boundaries and blurring lines between tradition and innovation. But after experiencing a very generous section of the Penfolds 2024 Collection, I think wine lovers will realise that we’re moving into Penfolds’ new era where geography is no longer a constraint, and Penfolds is undeniably a global winemaker.

Of course, the four iconic wines in the collection reaffirm their mastery of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. The "Baby Grange" Bin 389 impresses me with its present drinkability and unexpected elegance, the Grange, the crown jewel of Penfolds, lived up to its legendary status, while the precision and elegance of the celebratory Bin 180 has been a very fitting tribute to Penfolds' 180th anniversary.

But having the opportunity to taste so many other regions in a Collection for the first time was most remarkable. The Bin 600 from California is a true standout with its impeccable balance while the CWT 521 from China pleasantly surprised me with its ripeness and liveliness in a way I’d have never expected from Chinese red wines.

This Collection offers a very exciting glimpse into the future of Penfolds winemaking where these folks are, by some alchemy, able to source and create really impressive wines no matter the origin.

@CharsiuCharlie