The first European grapevines were introduced to China during the Han dynasty, some 2,000 years ago. Yet it wasn't until the 1980s, with the dawn of economic reforms and a burgeoning middle class, that the consumption of modern wine as we know it began to grow dramatically, prompting producers to produce grape wine in commercially significant quantities within China.

While Chinese wine culture is still relatively young, growing interest from multinational investors, especially those of French pedigree, has truly accelerated the development of winemaking expertise and knowledge in recent decades. By sheer dedication (and of course a great deal of investment), producers in China have narrowed the gap quickly and began to produce some high-quality wines that could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with renowned producers with much longer history. This is all the more impressive when you consider the incredibly varied climate and challenging terrains found across China.

Take the iconic region of Ningxia, for example, already renowned for many acclaimed Chinese wines. Situated in a mountainous region in the dry and cold desert region of central China, this region experiences scorching days and bitterly cold nights. Temperature fluctuations are so dramatic that producers are forced to bury their vines during the winter months to protect them from freezing.

Then there's Shandong, on the eastern seaboard, a region favoured by some other Chinese winemakers for its similarity in latitude to Bordeaux – including the producer started by Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite, no less. Shandong's proximity to the Yellow Sea provides a moderating influence on the climate, but the region is prone to heavy monsoons during the summer. The persistent rainfall tends to lead to fungal diseases and other vineyard health issues, posing yet another challenge to winemakers.

The mountain ranges near Ao Yun winery.

It's no surprise then, that when Moët Hennessy decided to invest in wine production in China, they tasked renowned Australian viticulturist and winemaker Dr. Tony Jordan to identify the perfect location with optimal terroir to establish a world-class winery. Dr Jordan spent several years scouring China's vast landscape. His search led him to the northern reaches of Yunnan province, renowned for its breathtaking snow-capped mountains and deep gorges. For two more years, he explored the foothills of the Himalayas around the majestic Meili Mountain and eventually stumbled upon a unique terroir encompassing four villages – Adong, Shuori, Sinong, and Xidang. The villages sit at astonishing altitudes, reaching up to 2,600 meters above sea level and offer a mosaic of microclimates.

Ao Yun's Estate Director, Maxence Dulou.

Interestingly, Dr Jordan also discovered remnants of an existing wine culture, introduced by French missionaries in the 1800s. They planted vineyards and built churches, leaving a lasting legacy on the region's cultural landscape. To this day, these historic churches remain, and villagers still attend mass within them. It was here that Ao Yun winery was established.

What sets Ao Yun and Yunnan’s terroir apart is its longer growing season, milder climate and moderate rainfall without monsoons, which allows the vines to thrive for a longer period of time through each year. The region's high altitude also means that the air is thinner, resulting in lower oxygen levels, that in turn lead to thicker skins on grapes and more concentrated flavours.

To oversee this ambitious project, Moët Hennessy appointed Maxence Dulou as Estate Director. Dulou, already a respected figure, brought experience from some of Bordeaux's prestigious estates such as Château Cheval Blanc. After relocating to Yunnan, he picked up Mandarin and embraced the local culture and traditions, navigating the complexities of working with local farmers from different cultures – many of whom spoke only Tibetan – and led an eclectic team with sense of shared purpose.

Under Dulou's leadership, Ao Yun has adopted a philosophy of environmental stewardship, going beyond organic practices to embrace a regenerative approach. This holistic approach focuses on improving soil health, biodiversity, and water management, ensuring the long-term sustainability of the vineyards. No pesticides are used, and the vineyards are meticulously tended by hand.

Even the winemaking process itself has been adapted to accommodate the unique challenges of high-altitude winemaking, such as the lower oxygen levels in the atmosphere. The estate's flagship blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is aged in new French oak barrels as well as in porous terracotta baijiu jars – an adaptation to introduce small amounts of oxygen at high altitude.

Despite the myriad challenges, Ao Yun has proven that it is possible to craft world-class wines in China. It has gone on to impress critics and collectors, showing a comparable standing in blind tastings alongside renowned Old World estates. It has also garnered international acclaim as the most valuable Chinese-made wine and with the 2020 vintage (we'll be tasting this!) securing a coveted position on the prestigious Place de Bordeaux, the historic trading hub for Bordeaux's finest wines. If there is a producer that could encapsulate China’s optimism in the future of its winemaking, it would probably be Ao Yun.

Regional Fine Wine Development Manager for China and APAC at Moët Hennessy, Émilie Steckenborn, who manages Ao Yun as part of her brand portfolio. Read our interview with Émilie here! 

I recently had an interview with wine expert Émilie Steckenborn (read it here!) who convinced me that drinking Ao Yun is like experiencing a legend in the making – like tasting a Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) in its inaugural vintages. That’s the kind of thrill Ao Yun inspires with many wine enthusiasts looking to venture beyond the Old World. And with that, let’s turn to this tasting of the latest two vintages.

Ao Yun 2020, Yunnan (敖云葡萄园 2020年, 云南) – Review

The 2020 vintage of Ao Yun is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 6% Syrah and 6% Petit Verdot with fruit sourced from Ao Yun’s four villages in the following percentages 10% from Xidang, 18% from Sinong, 38% from Shuori and 34% from Adong.

Harvest lasted 51 days, considered a medium duration for Ao Yun due to the significant variation in altitude between the vineyards, and therefore the harvests must be staggered to pick each vineyard's grapes at their optimal ripeness. 2020 was a small crop, and fewer new oak barrels were used in the ageing process than in previous years (30% new barrel, 30% old barrel and 40% stoneware jar). The wine spent 12 months of aging in the various vessels before 5 extra months in stainless steel tanks – a change from the prior practice of 17 months in barrels.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Dense and complex, revealing a beautiful concentration of dark fruits with a subtle earthy layer. Opens with vibrant notes of ripe black cherries, black plums and blackberries accented by delicate hints of potpourri. Brambly nuances intertwine with mild earthy undertones, some herbaceous notes of mint and sage.

Palate: Dense, full-bodied juicy. It’s a polished character that gradually reveals its full potential with some time to decant. The attack is vibrant and racy, bursting with dark fruit flavours alongside tart red fruits: black cherries, blueberries and plums, all harmoniously integrated with grippy yet fine tannins. There’s a moderate dryness of cedar oak complementing the dominant dark fruit profile, while a touch of greenness emerges through bell pepper and mint.

Finish: Long and lingering. Continued notes of blueberries, rich Chinese five spice pork and echoes of cedar.

My Thoughts:

This 2020 vintage of Ao Yun is dense and succulent. It has a fantastic and prominent acidity, balanced by firm yet fine-grained tannins. While it still needs time to fully open up, it’s a very good showing with hints of tertiary notes that promise further development with age.

Although not yet giving the full generosity of older vintages (as we’ll explore in 2019 below), it possesses remarkable power and potential. The exceptional freshness of the fruit really shines through, seemingly a testament to that unique high-altitude environment of the Ao Yun winery (meaning less oxygen in the air to oxidize the fruit) and the gravity-fed winemaking process adopted in more recent adopted by Dulou.

Do try decanting this for about 2 hours for the tannins to mellow and the complexities to really sing.

Ao Yun 2019, Yunnan (敖云葡萄园2019年, 云南) – Review

The 2019 vintage of Ao Yun is a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah and 6% Petit Verdot. Interestingly, Merlot did not make the grade in 2019 as Dulou felt that the Merlot vines were still too young and does not add sufficient character.

The vintage was generally a warm one with a long harvest that lasted 73 days with fruit sourced from Ao Yun’s four villages in the following percentages 23% from Xidang, 21% from Sinong, 32% from Shuori and 24% from Adong.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Much of the same aromas as the 2020 vintage but with more evocative earthiness. Opens with a powerful wave of dark fruits—cassis, blackberries, cherries and raspberries, grounded by a distinct earthiness and tobacco. Allow this to breathe a bit more and we get notes of vanilla and charred oak, interwoven with herbaceous hints of mint and sage.

Palate: Mirrors the density of the aromas, coating the mouth with a luscious, full-bodied richness. Vibrant and ripe cassis, blackberries, cherries and plums dominate the palate – though a bit fruitier and less acidic than the 2020 – the intensity matched by the sweetness of well-integrated new oak aromas. Tannins have mellowed out beautifully to become really silky. Some subtle spiciness of pepper and Chinese five-spice powder.

Finish: Long and complex, carrying through the thickness of slightly drying dark fruits accented by a growing cedar note, mild chalkiness, subtle hints of tobacco and calfskin leather.

My Thoughts:

This 2019 vintage is a delight. It shares the complexity and density of the 2020 but presents itself with greater generosity, fruit and earthiness. I’m impressed how an extra year of aging has brought forward more pronounced tertiary notes.

The balance of fruit, oak, and spice is truly enjoyable, and the tannins are remarkably smooth. While this would probably age well over another decade, it's already drinking beautifully now.

@CharsiuCharlie