In the late 20th century, as apartheid-era sanctions lifted, South African wine underwent a renaissance. In particular, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the cool-climate Walker Bay region – and especially the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley near the town of Hermanus – have surged to global prominence.

In this storied region of Hemel-en-Aarde (meaning “Heaven and Earth” in Afrikaans), a small family-run winery called Storm Wines has captured the attention of international critics and collectors. Previously an unproven maritime valley, in 1975, winemaker Tim Hamilton Russell famously planted the first Pinot Noir vines here. Skeptics thought the capricious “heartbreak grape,” couldn’t thrive here, but Hamilton Russell’s early 1980s Pinot vintages “sang”, proving the terroir’s potential.

Other pioneers followed, building on the valley’s growing reputation for great elegance and minerality in their wines. By the early 2000s, Hemel-en-Aarde could be subdivided into three appellations: the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, and Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge – reflecting subtle differences in climate and soil across the hills.

It was against this backdrop of a cool-climate Cape revolution that Storm Wines would make its debut, rooted firmly in Hemel-en-Aarde’s soil, and which in just over a decade, has amassed seemingly universal critical acclaim that some wineries take generations to achieve

In 2008, Hannes Storm, a native of South Africa’s Western Cape and decade veteran winemaker at the respected Hamilton Russell Vineyards decided to strike it out on his own to plant and tend his own Pinot Noir vineyards in Hemel-en-Aarde. After finding two tiny parcels of land that struck him as uniquely promising – one in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley ward and one in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde – Hannes secured leases for the land along with full control over how the vineyards were planted and managed.

Storm’s maiden vintage came in 2012. Hannes harvested his first Pinot Noir grapes that year and vinified them under his own label. When those debut bottles of Storm Pinot Noir 2012 hit the shelves, they immediately created a buzz among wine lovers both locally and abroad.

By 2015, Storm Wines had added new vineyards and expanded its range – including a Chardonnay and planting a Pinot parcel in the highest ward (Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge). With this addition, Storm Wines had become the only producer to bottle Pinot Noirs from all three Hemel-en-Aarde appellations. It became recognised for its elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made with a gentle touch to express its terroir, and for being able to mirror the Burgundian tradition of single-climate wines that express a sense of place.

Wine-making follows a minimal intervention, “Old-World” approach. Grapes are handpicked at dawn to capture freshness. Hannes ferments with native yeasts already found on the grape skins. He might include a small portion of whole grape clusters in the Pinot ferments (stems and all) to add spice and structure, but never too much, lest it overshadow the fruit or terroir expression.

Pressing is done with an old basket press, slowly and softly. The wines then age in small French oak barrels, but with only about a quarter new oak, so the wood is a whisper in the background.

We had the opportunity to experience Storm Wines’ flagship Pinots across the three different appellations of the Hemel-en-Aarde. The wines are named Vrede, Ignis, and Ridge.

(South Africa Wines) 

(1) Vrede refers to the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley appellation, and is grown from a low-vigour, stony, clay-rich Bokkeveld shale soils with a cool maritime climate but with heavier clay that imparts structure and a floral perfume to its Pinots.

(2) Ignis refers to the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley appellation, and is grown from decomposed granite soils strewn with round pebbles. Granite in this cooler-climate region tends to yield Pinot Noir that is incredibly aromatic and elegant.

(3) Ridge refers to the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. This site has the highest elevation and the soils here are also Bokkeveld shale with clay, similar to Vrede, but the temperature and exposure differ – as it lies on an eastern slope. This makes it the coolest and latest-ripening site, and its wines are usually the most intense , sturdiest and slowest to evolve.

Together, these three sites demonstrate the Hemel-en-Aarde’s diversity in micro-terroir. Storm Wines’ decision to vinify them separately (rather than blending) was bold for South Africa, but it mirrors the Burgundian tradition of single-climate wines that express a sense of place. With that, let’s get on our grand tour of Hemel-en-Aarde in bottle form!

These amazing expressions from Storm Wines are available in Singapore from Wine to Share.

Wine Review: Storm Vrede Pinot Noir 2020 (Hemel-en-Aarde Valley)

Nose: a mix of soft red fruits and something distinctly coastal, like crushed seashells carried on a salty breeze. Ripe plums and cherries, but they never feel heavy. There’s a faint hammy savouriness and a touch of dry herbs that sit just behind the fruit, along with a light note of medicated syrup that gives a sweet-herbal edge. Liquorice comes through last, subtle but quite clearly there.

Palate: Wow! The palate is immediately balanced and layered, with a surprisingly thick texture for a wine that still drinks so easily. The same red fruits show up again–crushed strawberries, raspberries and cherries–with gradual salinity and minerality that keeps them lifted. The structure is gentle and supple, the oak present but light, just enough to frame the fruit. As it opens, the wine turns livelier and a bit more tart, like cherry cola and sarsaparilla with a minty freshness. The seashell note returns here too, faint but persistent, adding a mineral tone that ties into the bright red fruit crunch.

Finish: Moderately long, with seashell salinity and continues the line of tart red berries. There’s a mild nuttiness from malolactic fermentation that rounds off the acidity while giving the ending a soft, creamy edge without losing the freshness.

My Thoughts

This feels incredibly juicy and fun, with a real crunch to the red fruit that keeps me going back to the glass. It strikes me as something between a low-alcohol, natural-leaning expression and a more classical Old World Pinot. It’s clean, precise, but unafraid to show a bit of character and texture.

The interplay of fruit, salinity, gentle structure, freshness and – most of all – the thick texture, makes it both quietly complex but really easy to drink.

Wine Review: Storm Ignis Pinot Noir 2020 (Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley)

Nose: A powdery rush of cacao powder that’s layered with potpourri florals and a clear cigar box note that blends dried tobacco and old polished wood. Beneath that, the red fruits come through with raspberries and cherries, with a thread of liquorice and a cool mint accent. A strong tertiary character running through everything: slightly musty antique wood, old library books and that dry, papery smell you get from aged pages.

Palate: Generous and flavourful right from the start, with polished red fruits, raspberries, dark cherries, and even some darker berries sitting on top of a fine but noticeable tannic frame. The structure grips briefly, then relaxes. There’s a light touch of leather and spice that adds dryness without bitterness. The cacao note shows up again, more like dark chocolate dust, and the earthy, old-library character from the nose is consistently found here too.

Finish: Red fruits and a clean line of pencil shavings and soft malolactic acidity. There’s a mild lactic edge that rounds things out, but it stays restrained and doesn’t dull the fruit.

My Thoughts

This wine feels very evocative and much more structured than the Vrede, with a firmer grip and a deeper, more serious profile and deep potpourri florals. The mix of polished fruit, cocoa, old wood and library dustiness makes it lean into a more robust Burgundy style, but it still carries an undeniable clarity and freshness. The tertiary notes already showing at this age also give it a quietly complex personality.

Wine Review: Storm Ridge Pinot Noir 2021 (Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge)

Nose: A little more elegant and shy than the Ignis. Immediately fresh and coastal, with a clear line of the same crunchy red fruits that feel bright and lifted. There’s a soft layer of dried florals, lavender-like and slightly powdery, sitting over a dominant cacao powder note. A light earthiness anchors it, and a rooty sarsaparilla tone adds a dark-sweet edge beneath the fruit.

Palate: Again- wow! The palate is strikingly smooth and lush, with a seamless, velvety texture from the fine grained tannins. Red and dark fruits carry over with good concentration – raspberries, pomegranates, dark cherries, cassis, joined by liquorice and a mix of dried herbs that stay integrated. The weight of the fruit is incredibly well balanced by the freshness of the acidity and the subtle structure behind it. Everything feels really cohesive and the tannins are so precisely cut that contribute finesse without any harshness or over-grippiness.

Finish: A cool mint note and a faint pepper or clove spice. There’s also a slate-like mineral streak that runs through the closing line, along with soft aromatics from dried flowers and a gentle, resinous wood note that reminds me of agarwood rather than typical oak.

My Thoughts

This ended up being my favourite of the trio because of how effortlessly integrated it already is. It feels generous yet composed, with no rough edges and a clear sense of balance. I expected this to be the most closed and tight, given that Ridge is the coolest and highest site, yet it’s already showing a surprising amount of tertiary depth for a four-year-old Pinot.

That said, the structure, clarity and fruit concentration all suggest it can continue to evolve for many more years.

These amazing expressions from Storm Wines are available in Singapore from Wine to Share.

@CharsiuCharlie