Today, we're diving into a lovely vintage from Podere Le Ripi, an esteemed winery with rather unexpected roots.

The winery was established in 1998 by one Francesco Illy. A relatively young winery, you would be surprised to find out that Francesco did not have much connection to the wine world. Rather, he was actually heir to the famous Illy coffee empire family!

So how did he end up in the world of wines? As the story goes, Francesco was initially an avid nature photographer, and Montalcino enraptured him when he visited in 1984. In 1987, he began searching for a Tuscan home, while wine production was hardly at the forefront of his thoughts.

 Francesco Illy. (Image Source: podereleripi)

Francesco finally found a place for him to set up roots, being 60 hectares of forest, vineyards, and olive trees that was once occupied by a shepherd and his sheep until 1998.

It was in that year that the first site of the winery was established, designed by Francesco's son. Initially situated in Castelnuovo dell'Abate on Montalcino's eastern side, the winery expanded its operations in 2017 to a second site, Il Galamppio, on the western side to accommodate additional vineyards.

The winery's vineyards are divided between two different sides of Montalcino: East and West. Each side possesses completely different soil characteristics and its grapes are responsible for different brands of wines under the Podere Le Ripi label.

The western vineyards are nestled within the "Il Galampio" oasis at 150 meters above sea level. This hillside receives evening sun and protection from morning hear from the surrounding Montalcino hills.

The Montalcino Hills.

These vineyards, averaging 30 years old, are planted according to local tradition: 4,500 vines per hectare trained with the spurred cordon method. The soil is a blend of clay and lime, is enriched with pebbles and metamorphic rock, yielding grapes with firm tannins. This unique terroir is said to result in wines with delicate fruit and classic character, exemplified by the Sogni e Follia and Cielo D'Ulisse lines.

On the eastern front, the vineyards lie on Castelnuovo Dell'Abate's eastern edge, 250 meters above sea level, which receives more of the morning sun. This ancient Montalcino terroir is characterised by oceanic clay formed 5 million years ago. Rich in salt, it is mixed with tuff and silica sand, creating a compact soil.

Limestone-rich marl, influenced by various minerals, is further enriched by volcanic debris from nearby Monte Amiata. Vineyard density varies dramatically, from 5,000 to 11,100 plants per hectare, reaching 62,000 in their Bonsai vineyard.

Monte Amiata.

These vineyards are trained using guyot or goblet methods, benefiting from daily breezes from the Orcia River and shaded protection from Monte Amiata, making Castelnuovo one of Montalcino's driest subzones.

This terroir is said to express the intensity of Sangiovese, with a distinctive mineral balance. The wine lines of Bonsai, Lupi e Sirene, and Amore e Magia exemplify this unique corner of Montalcino.

Right, so how does a wine from the eastern side taste?

Let's get stuck in!

Podere Le Ripi, Lupi e Sirene Riserva 2018, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG – Review

Vintage Notes

This vintage is made of 100% Sangiovese grapes,  aged for 24 months in oak barrels, and a minimum aging of 18 months in cement vats. There are 12,000 bottles in this vintage.

The grapes were collected manually in the first weeks of September. The saplings were planted with a density of 11,000 per hectare on soil consisting of slightly alkaline granite and brown marl.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Sweet, spiced and really, really fruit-driven. Opens with vibrant scents of overripe raspberries, pomegranates and strawberries, deepening into brambles, accented by subtle mint and menthol. As it opens up, a delicate floral touch of lavender emerges, interwoven with light oak and soft cacao nuances.

Palate: Elegant and medium-bodied. Opens coated with juicy cherries and ripe blueberries with a prominent acidity that cuts through the fruit and gives it a very fresh lift. Before transitioning to a slightly greener Italian herb garden theme with thyme, menthol and coriander seed notes intertwined with grippy yet smooth and silky tannins.

Finish: Long and oaky. A light lingering sweetness reminiscent of wine gums, a touch of Milo (hot malted chocolate) and some liquorice. The tannins remain present but subtly offering balance and structure to the finish.

My Thoughts

An elegant interplay of fruit, herbs and oak. It’s got that classic vibrant acidity and firm tannins that provide tons of structure and freshness in a Brunello. The Italian herb garden influences add an interesting character along with aromatic oak influences contributing depth.

Overall, this is a really promising young Brunello with hints of greatness you can already see. The dried florals and herbs suggest that another 7 to 10 years of cellaring would make this truly exceptional.

*Suspiciously racoon-like noises*

Contributed by @Definitelynotthreeracoons