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Wine Reviews

Castello di Ama, l'Apparita 2018

 

"The Castle of Love" is a particularly fitting name for this renowned Chianti Classico-based winery that pioneered pure Merlot wines in the Tuscany region. The background of Castello di Ama reads like a modern-day love story. 

Surrounded by rolling hills, olive groves and historic villas, this picturesque estate is co-run by Marco Pallanti and Lorenza Sebasti, a couple with a love for both wine and art. Their paths converged serendipitously when Marco joined the estate as a winemaker, and Lorenza, the daughter of the former owner, was drawn into his orbit. 

 

Marco Pallanti and Lorenza Sebasti, the owners of the estate.

 

Under their stewardship, Castello di Ama has become a haven for art - with contemporary art installations to be found all over the estate. Visitors have commented that they're so drawn into the art upon arriving that they risk tripping over themselves. The owner couple started the art project in the early 2000s, motivated by a desire to create a space where both art and wine can be appreciated simultaneously. 

They decided to invite artists to visit Ama to dine, drink and search for inspiration within the wine glass and in the beautiful vineyard. If no inspiration shows up, the artist is free to leave. But more often than not, the artist would produce work that incorporates the magic of the place. Over the years, the estate has amassed a veritable collection of art – many of which cannot be sold – either because they are "placed in conversation" with the surrounding nature, or fully integrated with the winery. 

 

(Source: Alessandro Moggi)

 

For instance, Daniel Buren's 25m mirrored wall frames views of the surrounding hills and reflects light from the surroundings. On the other hand, the late Chinese artist Chen Zhen is a collection of glass structures built into the ceiling of the wine cellar.

 

(Source: Alessandro Moggi)

 

Before we get carried away with art, let's not forget that the winery is best known for L'Apparita which was first released in 1985. This expression helped the winery quickly gain acclaim for producing the first pure Merlot from Tuscany, and a fine one at that.

The grapes for L'Apparita are sourced from a special cru within the Bellavista vineyard, where the vines average a remarkable 35 years in age. What makes L’Apparita's vineyard special is its calcareous clay soil (with about 30% clay) as well as its very high altitude of 490m. This altitude makes it too high for Sangiovese grapes to grow. However, its lower temperature, southwest aspect and clay soil made it a great place for Merlot to grow. These combination of factors help impart a distinct minerality and freshness to the wines.

L'Apparita's style is described to be similar to Bordeaux, but carries more freshness and fruitiness, a touch more acidity, a slightly lighter body as well as a preference for elegance over power in the best vintages.

Let's give this a taste! 

Castello di Ama, "l'Apparita" 2018 – Review

100% Merlot, Gaiole in Chianti, Toscana IGT Appellation, Soil: calcareous with clay.

 

Tasting Notes

Nose: This opens with brighter black cherry notes intertwined with a hint of liquorice. Earthy aromas of tobacco leaf and bay leaf mingle with a distinct, almost farmyard funkiness, adding intriguing tertiary notes to the bouquet. Overall, the nose displays a medium level of richness and is quite expressive.

Palate: The initial impression is of density followed by a slightly lighter body than anticipated. However, the wine retains a lovely lushness and vibrant sweetness. Cherry jam flavours dominate, reminiscent of preserved fruit, yet retain a freshness and buoyancy. The tannins are gentle but firm, allowing the wine to glide across the palate effortlessly, without any heavy clinging sensation. There's also a subtle olive brininess adding a unique savoury edge.

Finish: The finish is moderately short, with drying tannins peaking and quickly subsiding. Lingering cherry notes are interwoven with warming clove spice and a noticeable, but well-integrated minerality.

 

My Thoughts

This "l'Apparita" is a distinctly brighter and more fruit-forward take on Merlot with a lively acidity. While the tannins provide structure, they remain restrained, creating a softer, elegant style. It's well-saturated in flavour, yet lighter in body, appealing to those who enjoy easy-drinking reds with expressive character. The slight barnyard note on the nose adds a touch of rustic charm that may not be everyone's preference but does adds an element of interest.

 

 

@CharsiuCharlie