Brand Spotlight: Suntory Strong Zero

Bill Murray famously purred "For relaxing times, make it Suntory time". This tagline rings truer than Suntory could ever imagine when we study the branding success story of Suntory's Strong Zero, the drink that helped the Japanese find their "relaxing times" post Financial Crisis. 

Back in the early 2000s in the bustling, neon-lit streets of Tokyo, chuhai—those fizzy, fruit-infused libations (essentially a shortening of “shochu highballs”)—were the drinks of choice for Japan’s hip and thirsty populace. But one name that wasn't lighting up the night or tickling the tastebuds was Suntory. Known worldwide for their top-shelf whiskies, they embarrassingly found themselves dwarfed by competitors in the ready-to-drink (RTD) chuhai arena. To put it mildly, Suntory was late to the chuhai game, and was struggling to make the scoreboard.

A certain Mr. Takanobu Ijima, a thirty-something marketing manager of Suntory’s RTD Division was charged with cracking the code and to turn around Suntory's chuhai fortunes. The ask was a big one, but Ijima wasn't one to back down from a challenge. Speaking to a Japanese publication (Next), he observed:

"In 2001, canned chu-hai products from other companies dominated the majority of the market share… We felt that the market for canned chu-hai was expanding, but our own product couldn't compete at all. So, Suntory gave us the mission to develop a new product with strong brand value."

The tastier, the better, he initially thought. The team, under his leadership, knew that in order to make waves in the chuhai ocean, they needed to serve up a brand that was distinctive and disruptive. But how do you revolutionize a drink as time-honoured and simple as chuhai?

It was a question that kept Ijima awake at night, as he scoured his brain for inspiration. It seemed like every chuhai on the shelves was using the same playbook - distilled spirits, carbonated water, and a splash of fruit juice. Their approach was, frankly, quite standard fare.

Ijima’s team realized that they had to move away from this beaten track if Suntory were to stand a chance. The key to success, he believed, was in offering a product that their competitors simply couldn't. A chuhai that was richer, deeper, more complex, and more satisfying than anything else on the market. And to achieve that, Ijima and his team had to re-examine the very essence of a chuhai: the fruit flavour.

Traditional chuhais derive their fruitiness from simple fruit juices. But what if there was a way to utilize the whole fruit—skin and all—to create a chuhai that was bursting with an orchestra of nuanced flavours?

Ijima's team’s idea was unconventional and possibly game-changing. But the question that remained was how to put this theory into practice. The answer to that came in a blast of frigid cold air.

Innovation at “-196” degrees: the Suntory -196 Degrees

Ijima and his team discussed with Suntory’s researchers. Their focus narrowed in on one key element: temperature. Or more specifically, the deep, frost-bitten cold of an unprecedented -196 degrees Celsius. This was not just lower than the coldest temperature naturally occurring on Earth, it was the temperature that turns nitrogen gas into liquid form. So chilly, it instantly freezes whole fruits into a solid block. But why venture to such frosty extremes for a simple chuhai drink? The answer lies in the unique properties of this super-cold temperature.

By freezing fruits in liquid nitrogen, you're able to sorta cryogenically preserve the natural flavours of the fruit in a way that refrigerating or boiling can't achieve. This patented method, now known as the "-196˚ C method," allowed Ijima's team to pulverize the fruit while still frozen, essentially infusing the alcohol with the original, full-bodied flavour of the whole fruit - skin and all.

This was a completely new way of thinking about chuhai. While the competition was squirting in fruit juices, Ijima and his crew were diving into the soul of the fruit. They were extracting every bit of taste, from the tangy skin and rind right down to the juicy flesh. Even the acidity and the bitterness, which had been left out by competitors, could be harnessed by Suntory, creating a chuhai drink that was as complex as it was captivating.

Suntory’s -196 Degrees

So in 2005, armed with their icy innovation and plenty of anticipation, Suntory unveiled "-196 Degrees," a chuhai drink that came in at around 5% ABV that promised a sugary, fruity punch. This groundbreaking drink was intended to revolutionize the chuhai market with its unique flavour profile and novel manufacturing process. But, as we all know, the best-laid plans often go awry. Despite Suntory's innovation and Ijima's dedication, "-196 Degrees" didn't make the splash they were hoping for.

Novelty can attract attention, but it takes more than that to carve out a niche. The chuhai market remained largely dominated by the usual suspects, and "-196 Degrees," with its full-flavored punch and intriguing process, was struggling to find its footing. It seemed like the dream of a Suntory chuhai was on the rocks.

But as they say, it's always darkest before the dawn. As we drew towards 2008, the global economy was on the brink of a seismic shift. One that would inadvertently become the catalyst for change.

People craved a stronger drink after 2008

Triggered by the collapse of Lehman Brothers in 2008, global markets tumbled, and the economy descended into chaos. The reverberations of the Global Financial Crisis were felt from Wall Street to the stressed out salarymen in the streets of Tokyo.

A famous saying about alcohol went something like: “In victory you deserve it, and in defeat you need it!” As the Japanese grappled with the downturn, Ijima noticed an intriguing trend. Households were consuming more and more alcohol. Yet this was no time for extravagance. Austerity was the order of the day, and the demand for stronger but most importantly, affordable alcoholic drinks began to rise. The Japanese were looking for their "relaxing times" at the bottom of the beer glass. 

As Suntory's "-196 Degrees" continued struggling to leave its mark, Ijima and his team decided to cater to this demand for something much stronger. A chuhai with a higher alcohol content could be just the tonic the market needed. But it wasn't just about cranking up the alcohol content. They needed to maintain the delicate balance of taste and potency to truly win over drinkers.

The Power of Three: Birth of Strong Zero

Early 2009 saw the hastily launched Strong Zero, Suntory's gift to the depressed and unemployed masses who really needed a strong drink. Boasting a potent 8% alcohol content and bursting with the same full-bodied fruit flavour that made "-196 Degrees" a standout, it was a drink made for those hard times.

Merely increasing the alcohol content also wasn’t sufficient to outclass competitors. Being mindful of health-conscious consumers who still wanted to drink, the Strong Zero had zero added sugar, and is considered a sugarfree drink. This new brand has the triple combo of higher ABV, sugarfree indulgence, and rich fruitiness from flash frozen fruits, and was Ijima’s gamble to appeal to the changing tastes of consumers.

Would the Strong Zero strike a chord with consumers and succeed where the Suntory -196 Degrees fell short?

It was more than a hit. The rich fruitiness was certainly a selling point, but about all else, consumers loved the potency and the zero-sugar recipe – something that other brands of chuhai did not offer. It’s not for nothing that this is branded Strong (Alcohol) Zero (Sugar). Strong Zero finally helped Suntory break through through the crowded chuhai scene, carving out a loyal customer base that loved the drink's potency, taste, and sugar consciousness.

The Cultural Impact of Strong Zero

Strong Zero became ubiquitous in every Japanese supermarket and convenience store. With Japan's open container laws allowing legal street drinking, the iconic silver cans became a common sight in the hands of locals and tourists alike - from the bustling streets of Tokyo and the lively party scenes of Osaka. The canned chuhai became an emblem of Japanese nightlife, an ambassador of the nation's drinking culture that transcends borders and permeates global consciousness.

At a price of just 130¥, less than $2.00 USD, it was the perfect companion for both night owls ready for a wild night out and penny-pinching tourists.

Of course, with greater brand visibility, naturally comes comments from concerned elders. The very features that made Strong Zero so appealing - its high alcohol content, easy drinkability, and low cost made Strong Zero the target of criticism. Japanese physicians started voicing concerns over potential alcohol abuse, urging moderation and responsible consumption. In their view, Strong Zero was a double-edged sword, providing affordable enjoyment for some, but also posing a risk of excessive drinking.

Be that as it may, Strong Zero has become an undeniable part of Japanese drinking culture. Tales of unforgettable nights (or perhaps, nights too hazy to remember) fuelled by the potent chuhai drink circulated amongst friendship circles, social media and Reddit. Manga stories featured the drink, rap songs referenced it, and tourism websites enthusiastically promoted the mystique of this "blackout" drink. The story of Strong Zero was no longer confined to the aisles of Japanese convenience stores; it had spilled over into global pop culture, its reputation growing with each shared experience.

Exploring the Rainbow: The Diverse Flavours of Strong Zero

The thing about Strong Zero is that even if you do not enjoy one variant, there’s a whole spectrum of other fruit flavours that one is sure to appeal to you – or at the very least be really easy to drink.

Suntory’s -196˚C freezing process can be applied to virtually any fruit, giving Strong Zero a colourful catalogue of flavours, from the zesty punch of Double Lemon to the refreshing tang of Double Grapefruit. There’s the more exotic Double Shekwasa (Okinawan lime), with a memorable tartness of citrus pith that offers a distinctly Okinawan experience. Outside of the core range, seasonal offerings like Whole Green Apple add a timely twist, reflecting the changing moods of Japan's picturesque landscapes throughout the year.

Yet, the tasting notes on a can or a website can only reveal so much. To truly appreciate the diversity and depth of Strong Zero's flavours, one needs to dive in and take a sip. And so, with a curious palate and a dash of anticipation, I’ll embark on my own Strong Zero journey, starting with three of the most popular flavours!

Strong Zero Double Lemon, 9% ABV – Review

Nose: Fresh, vibrant, very citrusy, right from the moment you pop open the can. Reminiscent of the assertive soda zestiness of St. Pellegrino's sparkling citrus drinks. Tucked within the lemony whirlwind, a subtle and welcome hint of white lychees that adds a tropical nuance.

Palate: The taste is just as lively as the aroma suggests. The immediate hit is a strong, intense tangy lemon tanginess - a striking spike of citrus and intense fizziness, like biting into a zest-laden slice of lemon, without going into face-twisting sourness. The lemon flavour, bold and unapologetic, is slightly tempered by the drink's mild sweetness, not exactly creating a balanced drink, but at least the lemon does not overpower the palate.

There’s also a pithy bitterness lurking beneath the surface, but it intensifies the taste of the alcohol – giving this an undercurrent of lab ethanol. This unfortunately feels rather prominent in this drink, but this strong note is kept in check by the punchy lemon.

Finish: Crisp and refreshing. Just as swiftly as the initial intensity hits, it mellows out into a friendly and refreshing aftertaste. Lingering notes of citrus oils intermingle with a lime tartness, providing a satisfying finale. The finish is decidedly dry, much like the finish of a dry vodka martini.

My thoughts: With its moderate sweetness and very lively tanginess, Strong Zero Double Lemon offers a rather memorable and refreshing drinking experience. The high alcohol content is to a large degree balanced by the intense lemony notes, although as pointed out earlier, there is also an inherent bitterness that seems to amplify those lab ethanol notes too.

Overall, it's nonetheless a rather enjoyable in its nuances, making it a decent, very reliable highball-type refreshment for anyone roaming the streets of Japan during its punishing summer days, or just most places in Southeast Asia on a regular humid day.

Strong Zero Double Grapefruit, 9% ABV – Review

Nose: The aroma of the Strong Zero Double Grapefruit is reminiscent of fresh citrus, yet with a less assertive tanginess compared to the Double Lemon. The scent is agreeably sweet, evoking the familiarity of a 7-Up soda, with a subtle presence of lime leaves adding a slight twist. Lime leaf undertones make a gentle appearance, though the scent remains predominantly one-note, lacking a prominent fruity depth.

Palate: The palate initially greets you with an intense grapefruit tanginess that quickly dissipates within a blink of an eye. What stands out more strongly is the taste of alcohol, which asserts itself more prominently than in the Double Lemon variant. Unfortunately, the drink doesn't provide a rich fruitiness or sweetness to balance this; instead, the harsher ethanol notes take center stage due to the lack of a strong grapefruit sweetness or flavour.

Finish: As far as the grapefruit element goes, the finish is rather brief. But there is a drawn out component of the aftertaste that leans towards a dry tangy fizziness with a faint grapefruit flavour. The lab ethanol note persists and takes a more dominating role than I would prefer.

My thoughts: The Strong Zero Double Grapefruit leaves much to be desired. Its grapefruit flavour is too light to effectively mask the taste of alcohol, leading to an unbalanced experience. The initial burst of grapefruit dissipates too rapidly, detracting from the overall pleasure of the drink.

This offering from Strong Zero could have achieved more with a bolder grapefruit presence and a more harmonious blend of flavours. As it stands, it falls a little short when compared to other options in the core range.

Strong Zero Double Shekwasha, 9% ABV – Review

First thing’s first. What’s a shekwasha? You can think of it as an Okinawanian lime. It’s a more exotic citrus fruit native to Okinawa, Japan, and in other parts of East Asia such as Taiwan. The fruit is distinctly tart and slightly sweet, with a pronounced aromatic and mildly herbaceous citrus taste that can be more pronounced than that of a regular lemon or lime.

So, let’s get to tasting this.

Nose: Fresh and engaging, unmistakably reminiscent of lime leaves and lime rind. The aroma is bright and chock full of citrus and fresh herbs - a nice twist on the basic citrusy notes associated with lemon drinks.

Palate: This is where things get truly interesting. The first sip surprises the taste buds with a distinct note of leafiness and citrus. It's a medley of flavours - green lime peels, calamansi, and a distinctive note reminiscent of bruised lime leaves, perilla leaves and hints of basil - it’s quite unlike anything else I’ve tasted. The citrus tang gradually grows in assertiveness. There's an undeniable novelty to the taste.

Finish: Medium in length, with a calamansi sweetness that fades fairly quickly but leaves behind a long and lingering aftertaste of lime leaves and lemongrass, a bit like biting on a stick of lemongrass. There’s a bit of ginger bite along with the tanginess of carbonation, and there’s a clean dryness of London dry gin.

My thoughts: The Double Shekwasha is a unique and memorable taste that I really couldn’t predict. Its distinctive mix of citrus and herbaceousness completely masks the strong vodka-like alcoholic note that sometimes shows up in other Strong Zero variants, a huge positive for me.

It brings a refreshing change to the taste buds, cleansing them and resetting your palate in a manner most drinks can't – that makes it a great palate cleanser in between dishes or in between different pieces of supermarket sushi.

That said, the taste is a bit of an acquired one. Pass a can around your friends and I’d imagine quite polarising feedback.

Conclusion

Strong Zero’s story is an interesting case in how brilliant Suntory marketers like Takanobu Ijima cracked the code and figured out what consumers loved. Consumers weren’t impressed by simply a great-tasting alcoholic soda. There were already plenty of them in the market. But the combination of rich taste, high alcoholic content and a zero-sugar approach made it resonate with the sugar-conscious and stressed Asian consumers, especially in a post-2008 financial crisis era, set it apart in the crowded RTD market.

While some Japanese elders might warn that its fruity taste masks the high alcohol content, I frankly don’t find this to be the case in the most common Strong Zero variants (Double Lemon or Double Grapefruit). Several Strong Zeros taste particularly strong in their alcohol content, and many often feature an intense citric fizziness that “bites” your tongue quite a bit. It’s a little bit painful.

So it clearly isn’t just the taste that earned this canned cocktail its cult following in Japan and abroad. It’s very affordable (in Japan), it’s potent, and it allows drinkers to stay slim. This is more of a window into understanding Japanese sensibilities and their struggles.

But if we’re focused on the taste perspective – which we at 88 Bamboo always are – Strong Zero does offer a very big range of expressions and seasonal releases. Whether you're new to highballs or a seasoned chuhai drinker, I’m pretty sure there’s one Strong Zero expression that you’d enjoy. I personally love the Double Ume. 

@CharsiuCharlie