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Whisky Reviews

Taste Testing Thailand's First Single Malt, The Prakaan Tribura Series: The Select Cask, Double Cask & Peated Malt

 

Late in 2024, it was announced that Thailand had now made the country's first ever single malt whisky - that alone was enough to rouse up eyebrows.

In equal measures, some were surprised to find out that Thailand (with its famous lagers that have gone on to sponsor globally tuned in title sports events and teams) had not yet had its first single malt whisky,  and then the other half was surprised that Thailand could produce a single malt whisky.

In all honesty, the confusion on both sides is entirely warranted. Travellers to Thailand would likely have seen numerous Thai-sounding names branded onto bottles of spirits lining the country's high density of supermarket and convenience stores - wait, aren't those Thai whiskies? We'll get to that in abit.

And then on the other hand, whilst some folks might wonder if Thailand had the expertise to make whisky, really the bigger question was more a matter of could a distillery even exist in Thailand - and the reason might not be what you think it is!

 

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Who is Prakaan?

 

Now, I don't travel much, but when I do, I have a habit of making a beeline from the airport to the nearest bar to ask, among others, one rather important question: What spirits does this country make? I've found that it's a great way to get to know a place, y'know?

Well, color me surprised when I went to Thailand for the first time last month, and had a selection of whisky thrust in front of me. Whisky, with a name that rolled off the tongue: Prakaan.

I had to dig into it - and of course, a taste test was in order.

 

Thai Beverage Public Company Limited counts several significant brands under its portfolio, not least of which includes the well-known Chang beer.

 

The reality is that making alcohol in Thailand is anything but easy. So before we get into the details of how good distillers are in the country, we've got to get past the country's first barrier to entry - the incredibly onerous laws around making alcohol.

It's incredibly tough for small producers to make any sort of mark in Thailand's liquor scene. The scene itself is overwhelmingly dominated by a single giant: ThaiBev. Responsible for popular "brown spirits" like SangSom, Mekhong, and Hong Thong, it churns out a staggering 90% of the nation's alcohol, and holds the distinction of being one of Southeast Asia's largest beverage companies.

The Thai government's licensing system doesn't particularly help change that. To put it into context, it was once downright illegal to discuss alcoholic beverages online regardless of whether you are an individual or a business owner! While some details of the law have been relaxed in recent years, it's a long shot from the laws that impact craft distilleries and breweries in other parts of the world.

For one, the Thai government officially issues just two types of permits. The "special" license, designed for large-scale producers, grants export rights and has few operational restrictions. However, it's notoriously difficult to acquire, demanding a minimum daily production capacity of 30,000 liters and strict environmental certification, not to mention a host of other nitpicky rules (which would entail a whole other article). As one might see, a small, up and coming distillery might find it hard to meet such requirements.

 

Prakaan distillery.

 

The most common licensing is a "community" license, which is more accessible but comes with severe limitations. For instance, under the 2017 Ministerial Regulation, community liquor production was limited to distilleries using machinery under 5 horsepower and employing fewer than 7 workers. However, the 2022 Ministerial Regulation reclassified these operations as "small-size distilleries."

As if this dizzying amount of detail wasn't enough, the 2022 Ministerial Regulation brought about a significant update, introducing a new category: the "medium-size distillery." This new classification applies to operations using machinery between 5 and 50 horsepower, or employing between 7 and 50 workers. 

While being able to now utilize more powerful machinery (under 50 horsepower) and employ a larger team (under 50 workers), applicants for a medium-size distillery license must have already held a "small-factory" license for at least one year, and the costs of buying said machinery and manpower is itself easier mentioned than achieved.

To add to the challenges, community license holders can't label their products as specific spirit types like gin, vodka, or rum; everything must be categorized generically as "lao khao" (white spirit) or "lao see" (colored, or brown, spirit)! This stringent regulatory environment effectively creates a significant hurdle for smaller players hoping to innovate and compete (Not to mention stay afloat).

 

Your classic Mekhong.

 

Now, hearkening back on my earlier point, Prakaan is marketed as Thailand's first premium single malt, which is actually technically true. However, there might be some confusion here because there's two other brands that are sometimes colloquially referred to as "whisky" in Thailand: Mekhong and SangSom.

You see, while Mekhong and SangSom are sometimes referred to as Thai "whisky", they aren't considered whiskies when you truly look at how they're made. So those bottles you see on convenience store shelves? Sorry to break it to you, but that's not whisky.

Mekhong, which is created at the Bangyikhan Distillery on the outskirts of Bangkok, is actually Thailand's first domestically produced branded golden spirit. However, it's also more of a rum than anything else. This distilled spirit is crafted from 95% sugar cane or molasses and 5% rice, then infused with indigenous herbs and spices for its distinctive aroma and taste.

 

The younger of the two most popular molasses-made spirits in Thailand.

 

As for SangSom, it was introduced in November 1977 and admittedly has less people mistaking it for a whisky (although it still happens alot despite the "Rum" written in thin cursive). Marketed as SangSom Special Rum, this spirit is distilled from molasses and boasts a 40% alcohol by volume. It undergoes a crucial five-year aging process in charred oak barrels before being bottled. Curiously, it is pretty much only known in Thailand. Over 70 million litres are sold in Thailand each year, but despite it being exported to around 20 countries, export sales account for barely one percent of total sales.

We'll take it slow here, because there's a fair bit of distilling history intermixed with one of these two relatively normal spirits: Mekhong (Pronounced May-Kong), the first ever Thai distilled product.

 

Bangyikhan Distillery as seen from the Chao Praya River.

 

In 1914, the story begins with the Sura Bangyikhan Distillery. Previously a private entity, it was brought under the direct control of the Thai government. Supervised by the Excise Department of the Ministry of Finance, the distillery's transfer aimed to generate revenue for the national treasury. To achieve this, the department initiated a bidding process, granting a concession to a private bidder for the production and distribution of spirits within a designated region.

This agreement concluded in 1927 (during the reign of King Prajadhipok). Following this, on April 1, 1929, the Excise Department completely revoked the spirit distillation and distribution concession, assuming full responsibility for production. The distillery underwent significant modernization, leading to the creation of a new "28-degree" blended spirit. This spirit was marketed under various brands, including "Chiang-Chun," which remains available today.

 

While just shy below 30% ABV, this black spirit is known to get the job done, and can still be found on store shelves today!

 

However, this spirit was known more of a cheap, bottom-shelf spirit popular among the working class. At the time, imported whiskey mixed with soda was the preferred drink, causing a significant annual drain on the country's income. Because this meant less money entering the government's coffers, the Excise Department sought fit to create something that could be marketed as a "premium" spirit.

They later innovated by creating another blended spirit, this time achieved by fermenting herbs and spices in a high-alcohol spirit, then adjusting the mixture to achieve the desired flavor, aroma, and alcohol content. This would be the earliest forms of Mekhong made.

This new spirit was further refined into a "special blended spirit," versatile enough to be consumed either neat or mixed with soda. This new special blended spirit proved to be a game-changer, substantially reducing the cost of imports while offering a homegrown alternative (and profit). The first bottles of Mekhong were on shelves by 1941, much to critical acclaim.

 

The Mekong River.

 

The inspiration for the name reportedly hails from a song popular during the Franco-Thai war.  Taking its melody from a Western Tune "Swanee River", "Kham Khong" (Across Mekong), was a Thai patriotic song that eschewed national pride. Naturally, it was equal parts nationalism and good branding that made the distillery name their new spirit after the song. 

In 1960, the Thai government stepped back from direct control of the Bangyikhan Distillery and leased its production rights. By the 1980s, the government no longer had any interest in distillery ownership. Eventually, Thai Beverage, Inc. (ThaiBev) took over Bangyikhan. The rest, as they say, is history.

Which brings us to the modern age. Prakaan is made in the Prakaan Distillery - the name itself taken to mean "Fort" in Thai, and whose brand belongs to International Beverage, the global division of ThaiBev (which also happens to own Mekhong and SangSom, the two brands most commonly mistaken for being Thai whisky; and then also perhaps in what might be surprising to many, the company also owns Scotch staples like Old Pulteney and Balblair, amongst other Scotch distilleries). After all we've discussed, it should be no surprise that if anyone could do it (and we're talking regulations), it would of course be the country's biggest producer. It plans to launch initially in the UK, France, and Germany throughout 2025, with expansion into the US and other markets following thereafter.

 

Thailand's Western Forest Complex.

 

The distillery itself is located in the north of Thailand, located in the province of Kamphaeng Phet. This province is itself within the Western Forest Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is considered the largest remaining forest track in mainland Southeast Asia, covering a whopping area of about 18,000 square kilometres.

Prakaan, which translates to 'wall' or 'fort,' is named in homage to the ancient wall that once encircled the province. The three whiskies are collectively known as 'The Tribura Series' (pronounced Tri-boon), a nod to the wall's three fortified layers.

 

Some ancient ruins of the province's walls can still be found.

 

It is said (by the company) that the forest and its associated high-quality spring water comes together with the region's hot, humid climate to provide the ‘perfect conditions’ for making whisky.

It was because of this tropical climate that the distillery chose to adapt traditional Western production techniques. No measure was spared, it seems.

The distillery sources its water from a spring located 200 meters underground. The barley, both peated (at 45ppm) and unpeated, is imported from the United Kingdom and is milled by a Bühler roller mill with a 3-ton capacity.

The mashing process takes place in a 40m³ stainless steel mash tun designed to process 8 tons of malt per batch. After which, the mash is then fermented for approximately 65 hours before distillation begins.

 

Prakaan's stills.

 

Distillation is performed using copper pot stills shipped from Scotland by Forsyth & Sons Ltd. The initial distillation occurs in two ball-shaped wash stills, each standing 6.58 meters tall, while the second distillation uses two similarly shaped spirit stills, each 5.59 meters tall.

Its whisky is stored 3 meters underground in warehouses insulted by the ground itself. Each warehouse can store between 30,000 and 50,000 casks. The distillery also prides itself in having distillers that have studied the intricacies of Scottish whisky-making methods.

 

 

Despite the youth of the distillery and the relative lack of details as to how it all works, the brand has already found itself in the global spotlight, having been recognized with a "Category Winner" award at the World Whiskies Awards 2025 in the No Age Statement category. 

On this recent trip to Thailand, I had the good fortune to wander into a bar called Find the Photobooth, which had the entire Tribura selection for a try.

Well, does it live up to the hype?

Let's get stuck in!

Prakaan Select Cask, 43.0% ABV - Review

Said to be the epitome of the distillery's house style, the Select Cask is aged in Ex-Bourbon casks with no age statement.

 

Tasting Notes

Colour: Amber

Aroma: Rather surprising, this was not far off from young Highland Scotch. It leans sweeter, with notes of wet apples and pear skins, hoisted by a gentle waft of wet hay. This sweetness develops into honey and caramel sprinkled with vanilla, along with just a hint of candied plums. With time, a citrus zest becomes ever so dominant, with also a touch of salinity. There's just a bit of tropical fruit flavours at the back, although they remain somewhat vague - that is to say, I could not identify them, which might well be on me.

Taste: The sweetness carries through to the palate a fair bit, and those notes of caramel, honey and wet hay are present again. Curiously, I also get a good amount of new wood and salt, slightly stronger than on the nose as well. The citrus isn't quite present on the palate, instead replaced by a gentle baking spice, of anise and cardamom, along with a faintness of dried fruit and light confectionaries. With time in the glass, some tropical fruit becomes more apparent - coconut, apricot and the faintest slap of mango. Into the finish, there's just abit of dry bitterness that feels like sawdust or walnut skins. There's a considerable amount of heat, rather prickly I have to admit, and the new wood element does seem quite persistent - more so than I would have liked.

Finish: Medium finish, the sweetness stays but the rest of the flavors on the palate sort of fade away rather quickly, replaced by that dry astringency and new wood notes. There's just abit of dried florals with milk chocolate in a short rapidfire burst, and just one last tinge of the earlier fruit notes and sweetness before fading out on that nutmeg-esque walnut dryness again.

 

My Thoughts

Admittedly a surprising one - truth be told, I did not to know what to expect, neither more nor less. Yet in practice, this drinks more like a very young Scotch - which is both somewhat promising and also not quite there yet as far as finished products go. There's a good amount of freshness and more than some heat to it, which I'm still on the fence as to whether it's intentional or not - my experience with other well-known Thai alcoholic beverages have largely informed me that subtlety is not a desired trait here. That said, I do feel that as far as universal palate standards go, a longer ageing might allow the flavors to develop more and make it feel less rushed. I do, however, appreciate the hints of tropical fruit flavors, as well as that pleasant (if not persevering) sweetness. It makes the whisky nice and approachable while retaining some amount of intrigue. You really don't know where to duck or jump with this one.

That's not to say it's a bad thing, however! For a traditionally non-whisky making region like Thailand, this is certainly a huge first step for what could follow. I am still safely on board the Thai single malt whisky train.

Prakaan Double Cask, 43.0% ABV - Review

Again, with no age statement, little is known about this whisky except that it's aged in two casks: Ex-Bourbon and Sherry Oak.

 

Tasting Notes

Colour: Light Gold

Aroma: Off the bat, this is already giving more complexity to unpack. There's a nuanced sweetness here that's a mix of red and tropical fruit. Likely from the Sherry influence, whiffs of the classic stewed plums, raisins and a smattering of dates shore up. It is very faint, however. More nosing clues in on also something like a mysterious papaya and pineapple mash - perhaps a fruit smoothie of sorts. There's a little grapefruit zest in the middle, along with the vanilla, honey and faint familiar woodiness. There's a more perceptible baking spice note along with some milk chocolate on the back end. Curiously, everything comes together to provide a maple syrup note. That all said, the bite here was not shy. 

Taste: Again, it's beginning to feel like classic Scotch whisky, and particularly of the Highland / Speyside varietal, although less concentrated. The Sherry influence fades away after a while, giving way to those notes of honey, vanilla and (thankfully) a more muted new wood quality. The citrus note on the nose develops into something like candied peels or lemon sponge cake. Notably a more rounded sweetness as compared to the Select Cask. It's more syrupy and mouthcoating. Although it takes a good minute, that tropical fruit note of papayas, pineapples and even unripe mango does appear more prevalently. Yet, it is still very much softer than you'd expect. 

Into the finish, that wet hay note seen in the Select Cask is replaced by an obvious malt note, along with a brief wave of bitter dark chocolate. There's that baking spice note that comes and goes, but with a notable cinnamon prevalence. Again, lots of heat in this expression which is comparable to the Select Cask. There's this overall sense that the whisky is still far from reaching its peak development.

Finish: Also medium in length, the syrupy sweetness sort of lingers on the edges of your tongue with those tropical fruit notes. This becomes a sweet vanilla that then fades out as a mix of new wood and bitter citrus. Nothing much changes from the palate to the finish, admittedly. The heat is again, hot and lingering.

 

My Thoughts

Clearly, the Double Cask is a more complex version of the single cask. The base flavors of Prakaan's single malt is clear in both (which is a win!), but the Double Cask does just a slightly better job of bringing forth those tropical fruit notes while staying as close to the Scotch backbone that is present in both expressions.

I say slight, however, because like the Select Cask the heat and acetone notes do tend to overshadow everything else. The youth of this whisky is still present and all the other notes seem to let it take center stage - it'll be curious to see if age could change that.

Prakaan Peated Malt, 43.0% ABV - Review

The malt used here is also imported from the U.K. and peated at 45 ppm. There doesn't seem to be any information about any specific cask type used in aging, so I'd wager it's safe to assume it's essentially a peated version of the Prakaan Select Cask - that is ex-Bourbon.

 

Tasting Notes

Colour: Light Amber

Aroma: Pleasantly peated, all things considered. Gentle smoke from the last embers of a campfire, and gentle peat laying over a sprinkling of light brine. This is coated over some faint notes of vanilla and honey noted in the other two expressions, and overall the peat seems to wrap around its core.

For what it's worth, seeing as I had some difficulty picking up on any other possible notes straight out the dram, I decided to to dilute it with some ice and let it sit. That definitely brought forth a little more of those familiar notes that I got from before - the bright tropical fruit, some citrus, and milk chocolates. Curiously, that wet hay and malt note appeared too. Again, that new make-esque spiciness and new wood note maintains.

Taste: As a longtime fan of peated malt, I must say this expression is certainly one of the more approachable ones I've had in recent memory. That gentle peat and wood smoke on the nose gives way to only the slightest of that peated whisky bitterness. That said, it doesn't exactly develop into much else.

Smoke and peat aside, it keeps largely to the profile of the Select Cask - a soft sweetness that's a marriage of vanilla, honey, baking spices with some caramel and citrus. Notably, the tropical fruit note becomes a mix of candied pineapple and apricot jam, but again this is nevertheless only a whisper.

Finish: Just a measure shorter than the previous two expressions. The peat and smoke sort of lingers throughout the entire tasting, not quite fading nor gaining in strength. The sweetness on the palate fades a bit and makes room for again, that new wood and malt/hay notes, which is just a little less obvious than the peat. Everything, smoke included, fades out just before the end and you get a bright burst of bitter peat before that too, fades.

 

My Thoughts

It's a extremely good introduction to peat for any new drinkers that might fear the stronger expressions out there - it's like peated whisky 101. That aside, I must say it doesn't extend that much further from the flavour profile of the Select Cask. Certainly full-bodied and fairly rounded, the heat and astringency remains, although here it's augmented for a mild peaty bitterness. 

All things considered, a solid attempt at a pretty classic peated style whisky!

Last Words

Prakaan's youth is clear in its expressions, but it's doing so in a way that isn't at all haphazard. Despite being a "Southeast Asian" whisky, it certainly has it's Scotch-like profile nailed down, and has achieved quite a bit in terms of balance and rounded-ness despite it's first foray into aspects such as peat. Amongst other things, I do appreciate that tropical fruit presence and the attempt to present it, although it's still somewhat shy and needs to be coaxed out. The truth is Prakaan's flavour profile are still rather soft and young, and thus much of what I eked out of it came from having sat with it for quite some time. 

Now if I had one gripe, it would be that the heat and astringency reminds me very much of a new make and tends to be slightly overpowering at time. The reality is that given the newness of the category, to the best of my knowledge (and I've asked about when I was in the country) there are no regulations on how old a spirit has to be to be labelled "Whisky", or much less "Thailand Whisky". To cut right to it - this still feels very much like the combination of a Highland style whisky newmake that's given a couple of months in the barrel before it's bottled. And to that, it's clear that before any verdict can be put out, this has got to properly age! Make no mistake, right now, the potential is there - I can see the vision! - but it's still missing the fabled fourth ingredient, "time".

Nonetheless, I'd say this is a whisky to look out for. Given time to find its balance more, one could very well be surprised in the future. Fingers crossed!

 

Lok Bing Hong



A budding journalist that loves experiencing new things and telling people's stories. I have 30 seconds of irresponsibly sanctimonious brilliance a day. I do not decide when they come. They are not consecutive.