I think what confounds people most when it comes to Mezcal (beyond the most immediate perennial confusion regarding Mezcal vis-a-vis Tequila) is the language itself.

There are two groups of people - people who speak Spanish (might surprise you to know it's the most spoken language globally) and people who don't.

If you weren't a Spanish language speaker, just pronouncing "Madrecuixe" is enough to at least make a vein tingle. It's actually pronounced Mah-drey-qui-say.

San Luis del Rio. (Image Source: Del Maguey)

Preparing the Madrecuixe, by cooking in an earthen pit before fermentation. (Image Source: Del Maguey)

Now, don't get me wrong, this difficulty is entirely on us, the language has been around for centuries - which is to say, its ability to stay relevant and alive is at least indicative of its usefulness. It's just that particularly outside of continental America, it isn't a commonly spoken language and phonetically it runs counter to other commonly spoken Asian languages.

To compound that, nothing of the word "Madrecuixe" alone gives a non-Spanish speaker any clue as to what it might refer to. Judging by the label art, is a river, is it the name of the river, is it the boat, the thing on the boat, the name of the boat, the man rowing the boat, the man's name, the scene? I haven't the slightest clue.

If this all sounds incredibly ignorant on my part - I'm afraid it really is, and I would love more than anything if Mezcal was my turnaround story. We'll see.

Turns out Madrecuixe is the name of an Agave plant varietal - one that is tall, cylindrical, and with leaves growing from the ground up. That certainly leaves much to the imagination - much of which somehow seems to converge on the absurd.

Behold, the Madrecuixe. It looks like every other Agave varietal. (Image Source: Neta Spirits)

In any case, as you might've guessed, today we're going to try a Mezcal from Del Maguey (there's an excellent piece here written by fellow 88 Bamboo contributor) that focuses on the Madrecuixe Agave.

As Del Maguey is famous for, this is from a single village - San Luis del Rio, and it's where the Red Ant River flows through; Ah! That explains the art on the label.

"Del Maguey brings you a special limited edition from our Vino De Mezcal™ series made in lush, remote San Luis del Rio, Oaxaca where the Red Ant river flows.

Madrecuixe is a wild tall cylindrical maguey like Tobasiche with leaves that grow from the ground up as opposed to Tobasiche that sheds its lower leaves as it grows leaving a bare dry cylindrical piña. These mature Madrecuixes have been earth-roasted, fermented with airborne microbes, twice distilled, unblended the original, centuries-old Oaxacan, hand- crafted way.

What color is green? Banana leaf, green papaya, just-mown alfalfa, tarragon and fresh cut bamboo, give way to circus peanuts and sweet, fresh-forward tropical fruits of mango, pineapple and chicozapote. This extremely rare wild mezcal is silky, elegant, medium-bodied, with a long, dry, clean, dusty finish.."

, reads the back label.

Let's get to it!

Del Maguey Madrecuixe Mezcal, 47% ABV - Review

Color: Clear

Aroma: Light smoke - less smoky than usual. There's a hint of Play-Doh plasticine that touches on Tutti-Fruitti ice cream. Richer with notes of vanilla cream, bergamot and orange zest. There's a characteristic minerality of clay that comes with Mezcal and then a light vegetal scent of preserved vegetables or perhaps pickled cucumber. It's quite fragrant yet mellow.

Taste: Brighter than its aroma - a real perk up! Orange peels, tinned fruit syrup - lychee in particular, rose water, more Tutti Fruitti notes, a tad plasticky and of varnish. More vegetal now - crunchy pickled cucumbers (sunomono), preserved vegetables. A light earthiness of smokey soil. Noticeably silky and full-bodied.

Finish: Short, orange infused water and herbs of parsley. 

My Thoughts

This is a considerably more accessible starter Mezcal for those who are still dipping their toes into the drink, the more acrid smoky vegetal flavors are much more held back here, while the more approachable and easier bubblegum flavors are more forward - although it can touch on being a tad plasticky. The fruitiness here isn't cloying or syrupy, rather it's closer to fruit-infused water for the most part - very much present and forefront but not heavy or sugary.

That said, I suspect Mezcal drinkers might find this one alittle too accessible (how funny, isn't it?) and cry of it being too little in terms of your standard-Mezcal issue pack - the characteristic heavy smoke and vegetal notes.

Kanpai!

@111hotpot