Back in 2023 on my road trip along the coast of Southeast Queensland, I met up with the good folks at Nils Desperandum, with co-founder Michael Conrad, head distiller @wine_and_spirit_inc, and @rumapprentice, who were extremely generous with their time in sharing about their story, their rums process, and most importantly, their inspiration that fuels their craft of Australian high-ester rums. In many ways, Nil Desperandum’s preference for high-ester rums with a rounded-character and a fuller body resonates very closely to mine, which probably explains why they remain my favourite Australian rum producers.

One of the pivotal elements in the crafting of high-ester rums at the distillery is the presence of three muck pits positioned by the distillery entrance. These muck pits are left exposed to the natural elements, fostering a wild fermentation process that yields a distinctly Woombye rum. However, it is not solely the fermentation process that distinguishes their rums. Cask management too stands as a key aspect of their rum production, which goes beyond the mere act of pulling the liquid from the cask at the right moment. Instead, the folks at Nil Desperandum excel in the art of cask seasoning. They soak the majority of their ex-bourbon casks in sherry or port for several months prior to filling them with rum for maturation, imparting a rounded, red fruits character to vast majority their rums.

The rum of today is simply referred to as the Special, the first of their core range of rums. It embodies the philosophy of Nil Desperandum’s — a wild-fermented rum crafted from locally sourced organic molasses, double pot distilled, and matured for a minimum of two years in ex-bourbon casks, which have been seasoned with either sherry or port. It is bottled at the lowest strength permissible by Australian regulations, a modest 38% abv, yet do not be deceived into thinking this is a feeble rum; it serves splendidly as a neat sipper.

On the nose, the rum presented a splendid brightness and freshness, unveiling a array of sweet pinewood and fresh cane. This was complemented by a rather pronounced vanillin, a touch of nuttiness, and a hint of soy, which I surmise originates from the cask-aging process. It also possessed a pleasant herbal note, though I found it challenging to pinpoint precisely which, accompanied by ripe, fresh figs and a cornucopia of tropical fruits that enhanced its complexity.

The palate was equally complex, a remarkable feat given its dilution to 38% abv. It possessed an oily, almost chewy texture, which evolved to reveal a rounded sweetness that enveloped the palate after. The balance was impeccable too, as the funky notes blended exquisitely with the tropical fruity flavours of ripe yellow bananas, red apples, and sweet tangerine. As the funkiness reached its peak, and one anticipates the esters and notes of overripe fruits to emerge, the flavours took an entirely different turn, mellowing into a blend of white peppercorn, caramel, yellow sultanas, red dates, and that unmistakable sherry-like finish that lingered, with a touch more vanilla and a slight smokiness arising from the toasting of the oak barrels.

It is remarkable what the team at Nil Desperandum has accomplished within a mere five years, garnering a plethora of awards and accolades within the rum category. And should that not suffice, you might even consider exploring their 1871 Club, which presents an array of limited, small-batch, and even more audaciously experimental rums that are certain to captivate the rum nerds amongst us.

Your occasional rum addict!

@weixiang_liu