"Find a dream that you can't help but take on… and find a partner you can trust, who believes in your dreams and will support you along the way."

– Taiko Nakamura, Founder of Shizuoka Distillery

"Follow your dreams" used to be a compelling notion. These days, it no longer seems to excite people. Most say it’s “unrealistic advice”. Yet others say “it’s how you become homeless.” (Hongkong-American comedian Jimmy O. Yang’s father said this about his dreams to pursue stand-up comedy.)

So, not everyone is able to follow their dreams. But maybe critics are missing the point. Dreams would not be dreams if they aren’t far-fetched and unrealistic. Dreams would not be dreams if success was guaranteed.

Taiko Nakamura, who founded Shizuoka Distillery, would tell us that everyone was initially against him following his dreams. He would tell us that following his dreams was scary, difficult and incredibly hard work. But he would also tell us, if you could find the right person for the journey, it’s amazing how far you could go.

Shizuoka Distillery's story is an impressive one. Along with renowned names like Chichibu and Kanosuke, Shizuoka is part of an exciting movement to create high quality Japanese craft whisky, also known as Ji-Whisky (“地元のウイスキー” roughly transliterated as “Jimoto no uisuki”). Having no prior alcohol industry experience, Nakamura sought advice from great mentors (the likes of Chichibu Distillery’s founder, Ichiro Akuto), and himself built one of the most well-known craft Japanese whisky distilleries.

 

The distillery sits by the banks of the Abe Nakagawachi River, not far from the sacred Mt Fuji and nestled within the lush mountains of Shizuoka prefecture. Shizuoka Distillery is well-known its unusual pot stills: “Pot Still K” which was salvaged from a legendary ghost distillery, Karuizawa, and “Pot Still W” which is unique for being one of the very few in the world heated directly by firewood (gas-fired or steam-heated stills are the industry norm).

Like many passionate Japanese craft distillers, Shizuoka Distillery also wants to give drinkers a taste of its locality with the use of local produce. From the waters of the nearby Abe Nakagawachi River, to the locally-grown barley (to a growing extent), and also the firewood used to heat one of its pot stills, Shizuoka Distillery aims to eventually use entirely local ingredients.

We are so privileged to have a chat with Mr Nakamura, who transported us in spirit to his wonderful distillery. We witnessed the sheer amount of hard work involved in pursing your dreams, and connected over our love for motorsports. Mr Nakamura also gave us some practical advice on finding “The One” – so do pay close attention and take notes!

"Whisky-making remains a craft that requires the five senses – it cannot be done by computers. This is a wonderful stage on which human beings can continue to work with pride."

– Taiko Nakamura

[88 Bamboo]: As whisky lovers, we often dream about owning and running a whisky distillery ourselves. However, in reality, running a whisky distillery must be very hard work!

How is it like to operate and manage a craft whisky distillery in Japan? Could Mr Nakamura please take us through a day in your life as the CEO of Shizuoka Distillery.

Which part of your work do you enjoy the most?

[Nakamura]: I am the distillery owner, production manager, blender, ambassador, and importation company's chairman, so my work is diverse and varies from day to day. It includes morning meetings, checking on production progress, meetings with the sales team, checking on status of discovery tours, contacting domestic customers, e-mailing or videoconferencing with overseas customers, reviewing capital expenditures, negotiating with banks, negotiating with government agencies, meeting with raw material suppliers, dealing with visitors, handling media interviews, tastings, blending, attending events, seminars, lecturing, bar tastings, and bar tastings. I also attend events, give seminars and lectures, make the rounds to bars, and so on.

The best part of the day is when I get to enjoy the delicious aroma of the wash fermenting in the washback.

[88B]: You have mentioned that you became a whisky lover since you were around twenty years old. You also shared that your father’s love for whisky played a huge role in sparking your interest in whisky.

What styles of whisky did your father most enjoy?

[Nakamura]: My farther loved to drink whisky on the rocks in a beautifully cut old fashioned glass. His favourite whiskies towards the later part of his life were the Strathisla 35 Years Old and a single malt from a ghost distillery called Hillside 25 Years Old.

[88B]: Certain Japanese dishes pair really well with whisky, or a whisky highball. Do you have a favourite meal to pair with a bottle of Shizuoka single malt?

[Nakamura]: I haven't done enough research yet, but when Shizuoka whisky is drunk mizuwari I'm sure it goes very well with Japanese soba noodles.

[88B]: Mr Nakamura is one of the most successful craft whisky distillery founders and is well-known and respected by whisky fans from around the world. Few people are more qualified than you to talk to us about craft whisky.

Could you kindly explain to both new drinkers and whisky lovers: What makes Japanese craft whisky special, and why should people try it?

[Nakamura]: Since Shizuoka Distillery obtained a whisky production license in 2012, the number of distilleries in Japan has been increasing at an astonishing rate. It is believed that in a few years there will be more than a hundred distilleries in Japan.

People from very varied backgrounds are entering the whisky industry, and they would be using infinitely different methods to produce whisky. For instance, there is no guarantee that a manufacturer of beer or Japanese sake will make a good whisky: it is pretty much a mixed bag.

Finding your favourite distillery and following its development can be one of the pleasures of your life.

[88B]: Whisky lovers are always fascinated by the many different styles of whiskies coming from Shizuoka Distillery.

The difference in flavour is obvious when we compare whisky distilled by the steam-heated “Pot Still K” with whisky distilled using “Pot Still W” operated by open fire using local firewood. We have tasted and reviewed Prologue K and Prologue W and we find many outstanding differences in aroma, flavour and mouthfeel!

We also know that no other whisky producer in the world uses the same method of distilling with open fire using firewood.

How did you get the unusual idea to distil whisky using firewood and open fire? Are there any challenges of using firewood (instead of steam/gas) to distil whisky?

[Nakamura]: Mr Yukio Shimamoto, the first distillery manager of Suntory's Hakushu Distillery, once told me that "direct fire is indescribably good," and therefore I had been thinking about the possibility of direct fire distillation for some time. When I first came across the site of Shizuoka Distillery, I saw the surrounding forests and realized that it was an area with a thriving forestry industry. After much deliberation on how to utilize the forest resources for whisky production, we came up with the idea of using firewood for direct fire distillation.

The first thing about firewood is that it takes time to procure and prepare it. Local woodcutters in Shizuoka bring in thinned logs and chop them for us. From there, the logs are left outside to dry naturally for several months before they can finally be used as firewood. Furthermore, because of its low thermal efficiency, the cost of firewood much is higher than that of gas. The thickness and dryness of the wood also varies greatly, so the burning of the wood is done by a specially trained person. The difficulty in adjusting the flame also makes distillation difficult. Designing the structure of the distillation furnace is also a matter of trial and error, and it was a matter of a great deal of brainstorming at the site. Finally, the risk of using an open flame is great and there is always the risk of burns and fire. It is truly hard work!

[88B]: Shizuoka Distillery’s vision is to produce a unique whisky that embodies the character of your beautiful region. True to your identity as a Ji-Whisky producer, you have relentlessly sought to use Shizuoka’s local resources to produce whisky.

Local firewood is used to heat Pot Still W. The distillery owns the first ever fermentation vat made using Japanese cedar. You even worked with local farmers to produce locally-grown Japanese barley in order to make genuine Japanese whisky, producing the Shizuoka Pot Still K that uses 100% Japanese barley.

In your opinion, how is Shizuoka Single Malt’s flavour profile unique when compared to other Scotch or Japanese whisky? What unique flavours do the local barley, local yeast and Japanese cedar impart? 

[Nakamura]: Actually, it is very difficult to describe the flavours of a developing whisky brand. Our whisky-making process has just started and is still evolving, so the flavours are changing year by year. We also have a short maturation period, so it is too early to make comparisons with others.

There is one thing we can say with certainty. While whiskies tend to be similar in terms of equipment and ingredients, Shizuoka has tried many unique things, which have resulted in flavours that are different from those of other whiskies.

[88B]: Although Shizuoka Distillery produces whisky, it is also beautifully designed with a visitor centre to welcome visitors for distillery tours.

What could visitors see and enjoy at Shizuoka Distillery? Can non-Japanese speakers sign up for the tour? 

[Nakamura]: The Shizuoka Distillery tour will take you on a walking tour of the production site, showing you every detail. You will be able to feel the live atmosphere of the site. Experience the smell of the whisky-in-making, the heat from the open flame, and the changing temperatures of the production floor.

While the guided tour is in Japanese, English explanatory literature is available.

[88B]: We understand that you have an interest in Formula 1 and have even been to a race to watch the great Ayrton Senna in action 30 years ago. (I really admire Aryton Senna but never received a chance to see him in person. I am very jealous of you!)

If you could invite any notable person you admire (from any time in history) to visit Shizuoka Distillery and try Shizuoka’s whisky, who would you invite and why? The person does not have to be an F1 driver.

[Nakamura]: I would love to ask the father of Japanese whisky, the late Mr. Masataka Taketsuru, to drink some Japanese whisky and give us his candid comments on Japanese whisky after 100 years of whisky-making history.

As an aside, Ayrton Senna's legendary footwork controlled his car’s accelerator so finely that you would have thought that the engine was out of order. After he won his first championship, the development of semi-automatic transmissions and active suspension made computer control technology more important than driver skill in Formula 1 races. The day when AI drivers are faster than humans may not be far off. 

On the other hand, whisky-making remains a craft that requires the five senses – it cannot be done by computers. This is a wonderful stage on which human beings can continue to work with pride.

[88B]: Mr Nakamura has an interesting background.

For 11 years, you have managed a precision manufacturing company and a renewable energy business. You then decided to distil and sell whisky – a very bold and drastic change!

What are the differences between running your previous businesses and managing a company that focuses on producing whisky? Are there any similarities?

[Nakamura]: We are all the same in that we’re building things. But the major difference is that for whisky-making, the evaluation of the product is not based on numerical values but on human sensation, and the benefit is that the reaction of the end consumer (the drinker) is known directly to our company.

[88B]: Within a few short years, Shizuoka Distillery has become very well-known not just in Japan but also amongst whisky fans from faraway places. However, as a craft distillery, it seems that the supply of Shizuoka whisky cannot keep up with the fan’s demand for it. You have mentioned that Shizuoka Distillery would be gradually increasing its production.

Could you explain to our readers, how difficult is it for craft distillery to expand its production volume and still maintain the quality of its whisky? What types of challenges do you face?

[Nakamura]: “Craft” means its handmade. Therefore, it takes years of training and development of the manufacturing team to increase production.

In addition, craft distilleries beginning with limited funds will need to raise funds to provide years of working capital to increase production, as well as to purchase manufacturing equipment to grow their whisky production capacity.

[88B]: Shizuoka Distillery’s journey to success is nothing short of inspiring.

You had the foresight to make many good business decisions, and created a unique product based on the natural environment of Shizuoka, a product which cannot be affected by price competition. You developed your sales channels by first importing foreign whisky, and became one of the first movers to start a whisky distillery when few others dared to. And to make sufficient income while the young whisky is still maturing, you sold “private casks” to consumers who wish to reserve whole barrels before the whisky is done maturing.

Do you have any memorable moments during this journey that you could share with us?

If you could give some advice to younger people still searching for a direction in life, what would it be?

[Nakamura]: It was right after I visited the Kilchoman Distillery in 2012 that it all started. I had always thought of whisky as just a drink to be enjoyed. However, after seeing the small-scale distillery scene, I became preoccupied by the thought “I want to make my own whisky!” I was haunted by this thought for a long time.

I was afraid to ask Mika (now the Vice President of the company and my wife):

“I have an idea to make my own whisky, what do you think?” I asked. She said, "Why don't you do it? I think we can do it."

Without the slightest doubt, she gave me her seal of approval. That was the moment when the Shizuoka Distillery was born.

My advice is to find a dream that you can't help but take on. If you are passionate about your dreams, there is a good chance they will become a reality. And when you embark on a difficult journey, one that everyone around you is against, try not to go at it alone because you might lose your way. Find a partner you can trust – even if it's just one person. Find someone you can trust, someone who believes in your dreams and will support you along the way.

[88B]: For 2022, the distillery has released several beautiful bottles with interesting styles, such as the Pot Still K Single Malt and a red wine-cask single malt for Blackadder.

What exciting new releases does Shizuoka Distillery have in store for 2023? Could you give your fans a hint? 

[Nakamura]: Following our previously-released Contact S, the second Single Malt S will be released. This whisky will become the core product of Shizuoka Distillery in the future.

[88B]: One of your wishes is for Shizuoka Single Malt to attract people from faraway places to visit the beautiful Shizuoka Prefecture.

If someone is new to Shizuoka and only has a week to spend there, where should they visit and what should they do? 

[Nakamura]: There is the Mt. Fuji, which looks picturesque no matter where you look at it or when you look at it.

If you love motorsports, then you must visit the Fuji Speedway Hotel right next to the track. The hotel is an elegant place to enjoy a view of Mt. Fuji, cars, food and drinks.

Shizuoka Prefecture is also home to many Japanese sake breweries and craft beer breweries. You should definitely visit one of them.

Finally, sushi is the most famous dish in Shizuoka. There are many sushi restaurants in port cities such as Shimizu, Mochimune, Yaizu and Numazu. Wasabi, an essential ingredient for sushi, originated in the mountainous areas of Shizuoka City. While you explore the wasabi fields, do try a wasabi donburi (a bowl of rice topped with wasabi) with plenty of wasabi. I am sure you will be moved to tears by the intense burning sensation it will send through your face.

Shizuoka Distillery is located in such a valley. We invite you to visit the land where our whisky is born.

88 Bamboo would like to thank Mr Taiko Nakamura and Jeremiah Kee from Interco-MLE for making this interview possible. We are grateful to get to know Mr Nakamura a bit better, and for his insights on whisky and life!

Kanpai!

@CharsiuCharlie