Singapore's Clark Quay is known for clubs, bars, supper spots... in every sense of the word, the nightlife of the riverside hub is generally peaceful and safe for most folks looking to spend the night out. However, that wasn't necessarily the case, when during the nation's formative years, the bustling port hid a dark underbelly.

Source: Old Seng Choon 

In the 1890s, what we know today as nightlife spot Clark Quay was nothing but swampland. As Singapore underwent its transformation to a metropolitan city, the area was turned into a port and warehouse district. By the early 1900s, the area was alive with warehouses and the necessary industry to keep boats stocked and goods traded. This area would be named Robertson Quay, after Municipal Councillor Dr J. Murray Robertson.

Chinese opium smokers in the 1880s. Source: National Archives of Singapore

However, it is from this uptick of trading services and inflow of goods was the perfect breeding ground for the lucrative opium trade. Opium dens were commonplace, where traders and businessmen made deals whilst the (mainly) Chinese coolie clientele puffed away the harsh reality of working far from home. During the 1920s, opium started to be regulated and controlled, before officially stamped out altogether in1946 post World War II. 

What could it have been like to enter these shady, invisible spaces back then? We've been invited to a place that could have transported us back in time. 

Robertson House (formally known as Riverside Hotel Robertson Quay) is tucked away at the quieter side of Clark Quay, away from the clubs and bright lights. We've been told to look for a speakeasy bar called Chandu - and admittedly, me and my company circled around the building searching for the place.

Keeping to theme, this secretive bar was hidden in plain sight - behind a door adorned with a golden doorknob.

Pushing through the door, we were immediately greeted by a dimly lit but cozy bar counter. The place was lit in a way that highlighted the contours of the bar counter and the seating - with murals depicting scenes of an opium den lining the walls. Karlo Torres, the head bartender (or the Principal Dealer) seated us at the bar counter and offered chai tea infused water to start with. 

Chandu carries two meanings: "cooked opium" in Malay and "moon" in Sanskirt. Hence, the drinks menu is divided into two parts - the left a callback to the seedy opium trade (laced with tidbits of historical facts, which we'll explain later) and the right taking inspiration from our lunar satellite.

We asked Karlo what we should start off with, and his first suggestion was...

Addiction / The Vice

Bombay Sapphire Premier Cru, Moutai Prince, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Yuzu, Tropics Tea, Sesame Florentine 

This cocktail is, of course, inspired by the addictive opioid nature of the drug. The cocktail comes garnished with a sesame florentine - where the black sesame seeds are meant to mimic the seeds of the poppy plant which opium is harvested from (the actual thing is outlawed by the Central Narcotics Bureau of Singapore). Karlos highly advises to take a nibble on the sesame florentine before taking a sip of the cocktail - giving it a different element. 

The cocktail reads of deeply stewed marmalade at first, a mix of spices and bittersweet citrus. Then, a saucy, almost vinaigrette-esqueflavour comes through the cocktail. The baijiu makes an appearance afterward, combining with the yuzu that formed a ponzu-sauce like flavour and aroma. The cocktail rounds off in a floral, tart zing. 

Now, taking a bite with the florentine, the cocktail is breathed a new life. The toasty, nutty sesame seeds now invigorated the saucier, savoury flavours of the baijiu, which have been taking a backstage in the previous tasting. Not to mention - the booze does hit hard, and you do feel a serious buzz just a few sips in. Apt name! 

Suppression

East Indies Pomelo Gin, Arc Botanical Gin, Cranberry Vinegar, Apricot, Rosemary, Thyme

Despite much of the Chinese population being crippled by opium addiction, prohibition was not enforced until much later. This cocktail takes inspiration from the attempts at controlling the rampant opium use in Singapore. The motif here are fingerprints - where addicted patrons of the drug would have their fingerprints registered. 

Karlo mentions that the apricots are infused in the cranberry vinegar, infusing more flavours into the final cocktail. 

The cocktail carries a gentle perfume and sweet scent at first, but on the first sip of the cocktail, the palate registers tart, bitter-pith flavours. The flavours then register as medicinal and herbal, a mix of amaretto, preserved tangerine peels and a touch of spice - a flavour combination that reminds me of old-school kiam sim tee pickled fruit stores that sold preserved sour plums or nutmeg fruit. The sour palate and medicinal tones does make this cocktail quite complex - if you like your tipples with some sophistication, this is a right pick. 

On this next segment, we move to the "moon" side of Chandu. 

Eclipse Hour

Remy Martin 1738 Accord Royal Cognac, The Hachi Shochu Mugi, Perrier Peach Sparkling Water, Balsamic Vinegar, Orange, Chamomile 

For our first "moon" inspired cocktail, the Eclipse Hour takes inspiration from the ghostly, ethereal moment when the moon overlaps the sun during an eclipse.

If you haven't caught on, the acid component of the cocktails so far has not used lemon or lime! This time, the orange is pickled in balsamic vinegar, before being added into the cocktail. Karlo also noted that this cocktail is the go-to recommendation for those who were looking for a light, refreshing cocktail. 

What struck me at first was how shrub-like this cocktail was! It was tart, bright and zingy, yet, there is an unmistakable depth and complexity in this cocktail behind the fizz - one that I largely attribute to that balsamic vinegar. The cocktail lingers long at the end, reading like aged preserved tangerine peels that give again that apothecary herbaceous flavour. For me, this is the perfect cocktail to end the night on - sobering, light, and something to perk you up so you don't leave the bar in a haze. 

Celestial Elixir 

Orientalist Dragon Whisky, Tokki Soju Gold Label, Suze, El Bandarra Bianco, Jasmine

This cocktail is inspired from the epic tale of Chang'e and Houyi in Chinese mythology. Multiple versions of this legend exist - with the prevailing one speaking of how Houyi shot down nine of ten suns that were scorching the earth. Houyi was rewarded with a celestial elixir, but one night, someone broke into the house. To prevent the elixir from being stolen, Chang'e, Houyi's wife, drank the elixir and was transported to the moon to live as an immortal.

The aromas of the cocktail are nutty, musty and woody, like old teak furniture or rosewood, which masquerades a rooty, medicine hall scent. On the first sip, the cocktail is unmistakably bittering and dry, giving rise to a grassy, hay-like flavour. To me, this is very reminsicent of a white negroni, but less tart, and much more grassy, herbacousness, with a malty, overtly bittering profile. If the previous cocktail was meant to perk you up and leave you refreshed, this cocktail is one to brood over as the ice sphere melts, which revels the subtler, sweeter flavours that danced at the periphery on full strength. Amongst the cocktails, this is my favourite. 

Bespoke Cocktail

Rum, Cynar, Fernet Branca, Tito's PX Sherry, Orange

After a chat with Karlo, the Principle Dealer caught on that I am fond of the bitter amaro that was Fernet Branca (my modus operandi involves scanning an entire bar menu to look for a cocktail featuring the amaro). Karlo offered to whip up a bespoke cocktail to quench my cravings - and in some strange moment of telepathy, included quite a fair bit of spirits that I just so happen to be a fan of. Cynar? PX? I was truly spoiled. 

And came the cocktail - blindfold me and make me do a tasting, I've sworn that was a really thick and mean negroni off the bat. But then came the caramelised, chocolately, dark raisin flavours of the spirits seeping through. The rum, together with the PX, gave a distinctively raisin flavour, with layers of bitterness making their way after the initial wave of sweetness. And not to forget that Fernet Branca, giving a menthol, minty sensation as the cocktail makes its way down the gullet. If only I had a name for this cocktail! 

*I have terrible naming sense as many have told me, but if I had to take a shot at it, I'll call it "Blue Smoke" - inspired by my short-lived experience with menthol cigarettes. I'm sure someone else could do better. 

As latest mixology trends would dictate, you've probably heard of your favourite dishes being turned into cocktails. What about the reverse - where cocktails are turned into dishes? The idea was hatched between Karlo and Nixon Low, the Director of Culinary & Beverage Operations of Robertson House. Nixon personally presented the platter of bar bites and explained the reasoning behind each of them. 

Pina Colada

Crispy Filo Tiger Prawn, Coconut Mayo, Mint Sarawak Pineapple Pulp

To me, this reads like an elevated prawn cocktail. The pineapple sauce makes the prawn fritters appetising, with a nice acidity and sweetness bringing out the freshness of the crustacean. However, what really shines for me was that coconut foam - it's subtle, yet adds such a richness in aroma and subtlety in flavour that leaves you wanting more. The perfect snack food - but I forsee this plate being demolished in a matter of seconds. 

Dirty Martini

Charred Abrolhos Octopus, Fried Potato, Olive Tapenade 

Olives, octopus, crisp potatoes - what more can you ask? This dish really reflects the real cocktail, with that octopus giving that saline, oceanic brine flavour you would expect in a dirty martini, accentuated by that sour, vinegary pop of that olive. I really appreciate that light smoky char the octopus has, that highlights the fishy sweetness of the dish and tie up the briny flavours together. This was my favourite dish - and if I had to pick a cocktail to pair this with, it'll be the Eclipse Hour. 

Aperol Spritz

House Cured Norwegian Salmon Trout, Aperol Vinaigrette, Ikura, Dill, Crackers (left)

First up, major props to Nixon for this dish! This dish was so creatively executed - one, the salmon dip looks exactly like what you would expect in an apéro (hint hint, Aperol spritz?). But it doesn't end there - the sauce and the grav lax tastes just like the aperitif spirit, carrying with it that unmistakble orange and orange blossom flavours. And just when I was losing my mind on that orange note, that slight bitterness kicks in - something that you would pick up if you've ever tried Aperol Spritz neat in a shot before. Truly impressive! I only wished there was more sauce to really scoop up with my table water. 

Negroni

Crispy Chicken Karaage, Smoky Black Garlic Mole, Orange Zest 

Now, contrary to how negroni tends to get you smashed with its high alcohol content, this one to me feels like a life bouy or a life rope - big, meaty and filling, this dish is perhaps what would weather you through when you're too many cocktails deep. That said, I do feel like I'm not exactly catching the influences of negroni in this dish too much - which don't get me wrong, was still excellent bites! The black garlic whilst nutty, salty and very moreish, didn't quite translate as much earthiness and depth in rooty flavour as I would expect with a negroni. A great sharing platter, best when everyone's feeling the buzz and need something to pad out the alcohol. 

Closing Thoughts

Quite the experience! For one, I really like how Chandu stuck to theme - being a speakeasy that called to the opium dens of the past. From the "History of Opium" menu, I preferred the Suppression - I really liked the tart and invigorating flavours of the herbs that came through in this cocktail. For the "Moon" menu, Celestial Elixir is hands down my favourite, featuring a yummy bitterness that is coated with a malty, oaky sweetness. For the bites, Aperol Spirtz has me the most impressed with how close to theme they were, but if I had to pick a favourite dish, I'll go with the Dirty Martini. 

Karlo, the Principal Dealer of that night.

If you're looking for a different style of cocktails, be sure to give Chandu a try. This bar makes a chic hidden spot to bring your date to post-dinner, away from the hustle and bustle of Clark Quay. 

@vernoncelli

Chandu

Located in Robertson House: 1 Unity St, Singapore 237983

P.S. A very big thanks to Robertson House for the invite to taste Chandu's new menu - and a shoutout to Nixon for the clever bar bites as well as Karlo and Ashley for the hospitality during our visit!