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DuRhum Rum Reviews

Taste Testing Some Madkaud Rhums: Rhum Vieux; VSOP; Blanc

 

Madkaud rum is said to have appeared in 1895 through Félicien Madkaud, who then decided to buy a sugar factory and convert it into an agricultural rum distillery. The house quickly became the economic hub of the family and even allowed its owner to extend prosperity to his brothers and sisters who remained in Lorrain. The eldest of the siblings, Augustin, in turn opened a distillery in "La Dupuis" in 1906, followed by Félicien (son) in Macédoine in 1920, and Louisy in "La Digue" in 1924. There was also, according to family oral tradition, at least one additional unit in Prêcheur. In total, five or six distilleries, mainly small, which will mainly produce two quite different rums but linked to the same name: Madkaud rum, created and produced in Carbet from 1895, and La Digue rum, created and produced in Lorrain from 1924.

The last distillery would finally stop smoking in the 1960s; books rarely mention these distilleries, and for good reason, rum was most of the time shipped in bulk and bottled under the name "rum of Martinique". The logic of branding was not yet very widespread, giving free rein to the imagination of the merchants of the time in mainland France.

This is how the 'Madkaud rum' almost completely disappeared from the market, and its quota was sold to a third party (to Saint-James, which then became the producer). The Lorraine distillery 'La Digue' nevertheless continued to reduce the rum to 50° and bottle it on the family property, before closing down a few years later due to profitability.

It was from this time that Madkaud moved from a distillery rum (produced by its own infrastructure), to what is more commonly called a branded rum (like many other brands that continue to exist today: Clément, Bally, Hardy, etc.), by supplying itself from this date at Saint-James. The brand image will inevitably lose despite the presence of La Digue rum in the 70s/80s, consumed locally and very little distributed.

In the 90s, following the de-quota of the local market, things moved and rum took a little more space on the market, and landed in the mass distribution circuit. And it was only in 2006/2007, after 40 years of hibernation, that the brand 'Madkaud' resurfaced from nothing under the name "Héritiers Madkaud", launched by Stéphane Madkaud. According to the latter, the old column would have been integrated into the St James distillery; After inquiries, the column no longer distils, but remains visible at the Saint James Museum (referenced by its SACI number).

Madkaud therefore successively moved from the status of producer (until the 60s/70s) to that of trader/merchant in the 80s.

 

 

Madkaud rhum vieux / 43°

rum released in the 80s/90s, and therefore already produced by Saint-James, offered here at 43°.

The color of this old Madkaud is like Félicien's whiskers, brilliant. A deep amber with a slight coppery edge, the legs are rather thick.
On the nose, the rum mixes candied and caramelized notes (raisin, fig) and grilled, all in lightness. There is a dry side, of dried tobacco leaf, of old leather slightly caramelized, and the rest gives it a very pleasant chocolate note, just spicy (nutmeg, ginger).

The palate is soft and dry, and appears rather concentrated for 40°: on dried fruits, spices (pepper) and a slight bitterness (orange, zest), astringency (grass, tobacco leaf), and a little liquorice. The dried fruits mix with the smoky notes (tobacco), for a pleasant and resolutely peppery palate. The finish is moderately long but warm, quite dry on this bitterness and the spices which warm at the very end, and persist.

A rather simple but pleasant rum. A few more degrees would surely have had the good idea to offer another facet, but the standards of the time were quite different. Note: 78

 

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Madkaud VSOP / 40°

The Cuvée Castelmore is the result of “meticulous selection work carried out from the best vintages aged in oak barrels for 4 years in Sainte Marie (Saint-James)” .

Amber color, tending towards orange, which reveals medium tears.
On the nose, the rum is fruity, on orange, and is reminiscent of Bally. It is quite dry on a fairly young woodiness and some fresh herbs, but it is the exoticism that persists and makes you travel, at maturity and beyond.

The palate is concentrated, honeyed on candied fruits and loaded with sun, sugar: orange peel, then invigorating and tonic spices, a slight bitterness… if it is not Bally, it is very close in any case. It is good, concentrated and characterful with its share of spices, and keeping the rum in the mouth is very interesting. The finish is moderately long, on the reminiscences of fruits and spices for a dry, but always pleasant finish.

A good value for money rum, quite pleasant and with the allure of Bally (which it will not dethrone). Rating: 79

 

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Madkaud blanc / 50°

The Castelmore vintage in white version, still from Saint-James .

The dress is crystalline and oily.
On the nose, it is round and fresh: it smells of fresh cane, it is elegant, on citrus fruits and ripe fruit, fallen to the ground and greedy, minty. It caresses the nose and the senses, simple, but it does the job.

On the palate, the attack is soft and round, enveloping and quite rich, on anise and fresh cane, astringency (green herbs), acidic citrus fruits (+zest) and sweetened ripe fruit compote. The rum becomes more and more bitter and astringent, greener and spicier, for a fairly long finish, fresh but drying, with always on this astringency which is no longer very appreciable at this point, but in the continuity of the tasting.

A promising nose and a mouth on bitterness, and a use undoubtedly more suitable in ti-punch than in pure tasting? Note: 74

 

This is probably a more pleasant brand historically than taste-wise; the two old ones are very different, and one wonders what they could have in common with a rum from that era, and historically. And besides, will we ever really know? It will fundamentally lack a taste and an aura of its own. The Castelmore vintage is very similar to a Bally, and appears very different from the Madkaud of the 80s already produced by Saint-James.
We are relaunching a story (very interesting and rich) much more than a rum, without trying to give it a certain taste of the past (and of course it is probably not so simple), but it comes down to, at the bottom of the glass, telling a story starting at the end...

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

 

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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