Rum is in fashion, and after the special and therefore rare vintages and bottlings (even if some vintages seem strangely inexhaustible), it is necessary to sell so as not to thirst the consumer. And since it is never easy to follow and go beyond a 'limited' production, it is sometimes necessary to be cunning, and one wonders how some people manage to release so many new products in an ever shorter period of time.

There is surely a good dose of magic behind it, from the use of smaller barrels to 'accelerate' the aging (understand boost the interaction between the rum and the wood), that of shavings, woodiness, and I don't know what else that allow producers to accelerate a time that they no longer have; or rather a time that they no longer want to take, and especially not lose, jostled by the sales curves and the increase in a demand that must never wait, nor cease.

The recent release of the Select Barrel rum by the Clément brand seems to sow a new confusion, that of the double identity and the rum without age (the famous No Age State which has already struck the world of Whisky), confusing the consumer a little more in a world that is nevertheless reputed to be understandable (that of agricultural rum, in comparison with that of molasses rums). It is interesting to see that this Select Barrel exists in two different forms, but bears exactly the same name, sports the 'same' label, and is sold at the same price. We could then expect the same rum.

Select Barrel, the game of 7 errors

On one side (left) we have a rum without a clear origin, without a name, and about which we know - in the end - very little, starting with the age which is not mentioned anywhere (neither in the form of numbers nor in the form of terminology: amber, old, etc. including on the back label). Or to put it more clearly, the John Doe of agricultural rum.

We do know that it comes from the French Antilles, which could at least allow us to trace its origin: does it come from Martinique? Or perhaps from Guadeloupe, Marie-Galante, Saint-Barthélemy, Saint-Martin?

On the right we have another Select Barrel, which this time offers a clearly identified rum, with its own identity and well-defined personality: it is an old rum (and therefore at least 3 years old), its origin is clearly identified here (Martinique) and a reassuring Appellation d' Origine Contrôlé even comes to reassure us.

However, it is the same product because they both have the same name : Clément Select Barrel.
But it is not the same rum depending on the version you come across...

So split personality? Acute schizophrenia? Or more simply a sleight of hand aimed at plugging the holes in an increasingly voracious demand? In any case, Clément does not seem to really want to communicate on these differences, apart from insisting on the fact that one of these products is intended for Bartenders and the US market. But which one exactly?

When asked about the subject, traders (from all sides, virtual or not) attest to having sold the rum under the wrong visual; others have received a restocking with a Select Barrel different from the first, without being informed (neither by the brand nor by the distributor) and without the price changing. A rather worrying case, one of them even noticed an identical bar code on both versions (a case that has only happened once to our knowledge, and surely due to a stupid labeling error). Could it then be that, in the end, the rum is identical? In any case, this is what Clément suggests, putting forward the name "Des Antilles Françaises" for the US market to whom the name Martinique would scare.

Comparison and cross-analysis

Having no concrete (or clear) information from the brand, it was therefore decided to buy the two bottles in order to compare them (unaged version and Martinique/AOC version), by tasting, and by having them analyzed by an independent laboratory. This should remove some doubts about the container of these two bottles. Below are the cross-referenced results of the analyses carried out in the laboratory:

Alcoholic strength by volume
This involves checking the conformity of the degree displayed on the bottle labels, by comparing it with that measured by the laboratory. The 2 Select Barrel display 40% (or 40°). The "raw alcoholic strength" is calculated using a densimeter (the same tool used for my tests), while the "real alcoholic strength" is the one that will give the exact degree, since it is measured directly by distillation.

We can conclude that the 'no age' version of the Select Barrel is at the limit of what is permitted by law, with a difference of 0.27% between the degree displayed on the bottle and that measured by the analysis laboratory. The deviation authorized and tolerated by law is +/- 0.3%.
The Martinique/AOC version is beyond the regulatory tolerance and displays a deviation of 0.64%.

Obscuration / Dry extract
The degrees of obscuration observed here are 1.3 and 1.4. This is the rate generally observed for rums aged over 8 years. However, we are here faced with an assumed old rum (3 years therefore) and a rum without age (which we logically imagine to be less than 3 years, and more likely a Rhum Elevé Sous Bois/RESB). The laboratory results therefore suggest that there has been a significant addition of substances to the two products tested: could it be woody? sugar?

For the laboratory, the dry extract rates "actually reveal a roughly equivalent sugar rate, less than 1g/l being made up of wood tannins also correlated in the analysis with fixed acidity. This content can be very variable depending on the sweetening sought."

That is 6gr/L for the age-neutral version, and more surprisingly, more for the AOC rum: 6.7gr/L.

Acidity/Volatile substances/Methanol/Esters
The difference in acidity between the unaged rum and the Martinique/AOC rum (66mg/L) corresponds to that observed between an 18-month-old and a 3-year-old rum, which tends to suggest that these two rums oscillate between these two ages.

The amounts of volatile substances are within the norms, and inform us about the agricultural - and rich - character of the two rums. The difference observed between the 'unaged' rum and the Martinique/AOC rum is within the norm of that usually observed between an ESB rum (aged in wood) and an old rum. On the other hand, the results show that we are at 3 times the usual norm in Martinique for the total, and up to 2 times the known maximum; these multiplied values ​​then appear illogical. After investigation, it could be a use of sodium caramel, but this remains a pure hypothesis (and therefore without any value).

The TNA (total non-alcohol) sum therefore clearly indicates the agricultural origin, but for the AOC version we find a result 1.2 times higher than that of the unaged rum; in proportion, we can deduce that it could be aged between 2 and 2.5 years. The total of esters and methanol tends towards this idea and clearly shows a shorter passage time under wood for the unaged rum. It is therefore not the same rum

After these laboratory results, carried out on bottles of Select Barrel 'without age' (Lot L139/15) and Select Barrel Martinique/AOC (Lot L322/14), it's time for the taste comparison which we hope will be just as informative.

Clément Select Barrel and Clément Select Barrel tastings / 40° – 40°

The 'ageless' Select Barrel has an amber color, while the Martinique/AOC version is much fuller (see photos opposite). It is also fatter on the AOC side with the impression of a more mature rum.

On the nose , the 'ageless' rum is very simple, sweet, and delivers scents of vanilla, dried and sweet fruits, fruits in syrup. It is sweet, the spices and alcohol tickle the nose and the woodiness is quite lively (young) and dry.

Martinique/AOC rum is very different: much more vegetal, more complex also in direct comparison. We find smells of hay, macerated herbs which give it body and a strong identity of agricultural rum, with a very mature roundness, on the rotten and sweet fruit, bitter cocoa, very far from the 'ageless' rum. The rest even gives it a little more assurance, milk chocolate, milky and serious, but worked and pleasant. Where the mystery version already does not move.

The palate of the Select Barrel sans âge is very simple, very soft, on sweet dried fruits and a spicy woody, slightly spicy (mainly on pepper); the rum becomes oily in the mouth, even a bit syrupy, but without revealing more at the aromatic level (is this where a possible sugar intervenes? a specific woody?), almost sticky in the end. While the nose is very simple, the palate reveals a rum without real relief, focused on wood and spices, and a little vanilla. The finish is dry and fast, on alcohol, with the impression that the rum evaporates in the mouth before doing the work; there remains a fairly neutral dryness and some spices (which are quite similar to those of ron).

The mouth of Martinique/AOC rum is oily and appears much more concentrated: on macerated fruits (+ citrus fruits) mixed with hot and powerful spices: pepper, nutmeg, in addition to vanilla and a woody note that seems more accomplished, even if the rum remains sweet in the mouth, and quite acidic. The rum works in the mouth and remains concentrated and aromatic, it evolves, it is alive and this is at least what we ask of a rum, which is also agricultural. The finish is quite fast and will leave dry and woody notes, peppery, and rather simple.

Select Barrel 'sans âge' : a rum with a light and vanilla nose, and a very simple mouthfeel until a finish on alcohol and very dry. A rum to mix but which will have very little, if any, interest in pure tasting. Note: 63
Select Barrel 'Martinique/AOC' : a much better rum for the same price, you still have to come across it. Note: 78

So here is a fine example of proven schizophrenia, certainly, but a tasting rich in lessons: we feel the low-quality side of the rum without origin, very simple, with pronounced alcohol notes; the sugar brings this oily touch in the mouth, but which will probably not deceive the informed amateur, because it contrasts with the simplicity of the rest, and the absence of aromatic notes and richness. The Select Barrel Martinique/AOC is far above, and offers both a concentrated and aromatic nose and mouth, very correct. The sugar is more important than the version without age, but seems better incorporated.

The 'ageless' rum would be a selection for bartenders according to some Clément advertisements, and sold as "a premium bar rum": it is then very surprising to see that for the same price, the bartender will be able to offer a more characterful rum, in addition to being AOC, by playing on the very origin of the product, and therefore with a completely different taste, quality and historical interest. From there, why these two different rums distributed and sold under the same name?

It should be noted that both are sweet: the Martinique/AOC rum is surprisingly sweeter than the no-age version, which my 'home' tests had not shown; but the laboratory analysis did... notably with a bigger difference between the degree displayed by Clément and the degree measured by laboratory distillation (which, let's remember, is above the regulatory limit). Unfortunately, nothing has been done to allow the consumer to find their way around, or even the sellers, which may seem even more surprising. In any case, this is the first real case of NAS (No Age Satement) in the agricultural world... and that of a new sweetened AOC rum. Once again, vigilance is required, courage...

note: thanks to Alexandre from the Excellence Rhum site for the photos

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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