What do you do after making the national Olympics team for skiing? You go on to expand a regional supermarket chain and sporting goods store, after which you head to Pessac-Leognan to prove everyone wrong by rebuilding a chateau and turning it into a wine destination with a full on spa and two Michelin-star restaurant, of course!

Today Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte is incredibly popular to say the least - it's reputation has ascended dramatically in the past decade and a half, and so has its prices and how quickly it sells out. All hype? Hardly. In fact for the better part of its over 650-year history, it wasn't always this way. This not only reversal of the Chateau's fortunes, but in fact hockey stick upswing is largely thanks to the Cathiard family.

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte. 

Daniel and Florence Cathiard are exactly the sort of people whose lives are nothing short of incredible, as evidenced from the opening paragraph. The ridiculously stylish couple had spent their early adulthood chasing the Olympic dream with the French national team; Daniel on the ski team, and Florence on the slalom. Unfortunately, the pair did not end up being the ones to help to take home the Gold for France, competing amidst an all star season in the 1960's, with the national team already staffed with skiing legends. They did however set their sights on starting a ski resort in the US. Yet, in another twist of fate, Daniel's father would fall ill and pass away, leaving Daniel to lead the family's regional grocery chain in Grenoble, southeastern France.

The very stylish and incredible ambitious Cathiard's.

Despite doubts around the 28-year-old's ability, Daniel proved that he was a good businessman, and would not only expand the grocery chain, but also start a sporting goods store as well. Florence on the hand would also start her own advertising firm that would also be quite the success. By the late 1980's, the couple would find themselves having their businesses acquired. Now in their mid-40's, Daniel would seek out their next adventure - he had wanted to produce something artisanal and wine became a strong contender.

With some exploration in Burgundy and then Bordeaux, they would eventually find what they were looking for in Pessac-Leognan - in a poorly maintained chateau that was not known for producing quality wines. That was Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte pre-Cathiard's. When asked why Daniel had chosen the Chateau, he cites its rarity as one of the few Bordeaux estates that produces both red and white wines.

The Chateau's history goes back to the 14th Century when a Verrier Du Bosq had planted vines on a gravel-laden hill in the area ("la fite" translates as "small hill"). By the early 1700's, a Scotsman by the name of George Smith acquires the property and builds the chateau, which is where the "Smith" comes from. Eventually the estate would be inherited by the Mayor of Bordeaux, who would sell it to a distributor, Louis Eschenauer. Under Louis Eschenauer, the property would be poorly managed and geared towards commercial production. That was until the Cathiard's took over in 1990.

And so when the Cathiard's took over, safe to say there was a lot that needed to be done. Not having any experience in viticulture or viniculture, or much in the way of wines for that matter, Daniel would immerse himself in learning everything he could about wines - starting with a daily 25-wine tasting flight. He would get the help of advisors such as Emile Peynaud, often cited as the Father of Modern Oenology, as well as Stephane Derenoncourt and Michel Rolland, two also prominent vineyard managers, and would finally appoint Fabien Teitgen as the Chateau's Technical Director. The couple would invest millions into upgrading the Chateau's facilities, which included building a new cellar.

Ultimately, the most important call to make was that of completely overhauling the Chateau's commercial production methods for a higher quality artisanal style - that meant no more mechanical harvesters, pesticides or artificial fertilisers, as well as large scale replanting, lowering of yields by two-thirds, and adhering to biodynamic practices and going organic. The Chateau would even get its own on-premise cooperage to ensure barrels were made to order. Practically speaking this meant that it would take years before the Chateau would get back on its feet and realise its potential, and would also mean years before any financial return and added heavy investments - but it seems like Daniel was largely unfazed and went right ahead.

The subsequent years were not easy either - the vineyard dealt with serious frost and rain that destroyed up to 80% of the harvest. The Cathiard's with the help of Teitgen would persist onward and practice the use of cover cropping, introducing natural predators to prevent insects, organic fertilisers and even applying technology to help determine the optimal time to harvest. Harvesting is now done by hand, and in successive passes to select specific grapes that are ready. These are then softly pressed and the juices flow via gravity into stainless steel tanks to settle for 24 hours. Subsequently, natural fermentation occurs in oak vats, and then aged on the lees for several months. Finally, the wines are then aged in 60% new French oak barrels (45% for the whites) for 16 to 18 months (12 months for the whites) before they are released. 

In total, the Chateau spans 139 acres of red grapes (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot) in front of the Chateau, and 27 acres of white grapes (90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Semillon) behind the Chateau. While there are microclimatic differences in front of and behind the Chateau (the back of the Chateau is cooler in temperature), the soil also differs a fair bit, with the front being deep gravel and quartz on top with sand and limestone below, and the back being heavier on clay and limestone. The average age of the Chateau's vines are close to 40 years, with some going as old as 70 years old.

With all of this intensive overhauling done, the Cathiard's still had to be patient, with the Chateau seeing their wines progressively improve. Their crowning glory and moment of truth finally came in the 2009 vintage when notable wine critic Robert Parker awarded it a full 100 points for the red and 98 points for the white. That was more than enough to shoot the Chateau to the stars, and the Cathiard's would finally see their efforts rewarded. 

Since then, they've continued to build upon the Chateau, with their elder daughter Mathilde helping to set up a spa that focuses on using grape pomace for its treatments, whilst their youngest daughter Alice helps with managing the Chateau's 2-Michelin star restaurant, La Grand'Vigne.

And so with all that said, we've got to get down to trying the wines! Today we've got a the 2010, 2011 and 2017 vintages of the Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte (SHL) reds, with also their second wine that's also a red and made with fruit from younger vines, the 2015 Le Petit; finally we've got the 2017 white to cap it off.  

We'll start off with the 2015 Le Petit, then move across the Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte reds from 2017 to 2011 and then 2010, with the 2017 Blanc left for last.

2015 Le Petit Haut Lafitte Rouge - Review

The Le Petit is made in the same process as the First Wine (or Grand Vin), and is produced during the blending process of the First Wine. It's made with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, aged for 14 months in French oak barrels (20% new) made by the Chateau's onsite cooperage.

For the 2015 vintage, the winemaker's notes tell us there was a long draught in the first half of the year, followed by a cooler and wetter August, that resulted in an early maturation.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep Ruby

Aroma: Soft aromatic notes of concentrated raspberry and blackberry, enveloped in some fragrant tobacco leaves. It has quite the elegant purity about it that feels rustic. There's alittle bit of earthiness of freshly toiled soil, with not much tannins on the nose.

Taste: Very rich here, there's the dark fruits of mulberries and blackberry concentrate and jam, with a touch of raspberries in there and splashes of rose water. More earthiness of soil. It's got really silky and soft tannins, giving it a good structure, that's also very cohesive with a good balance. It's rather vibrant and has a buoyant and pretty energetic bouncy and taut body too.

Finish: Interestingly a little bit of mushrooms here, soil too. Followed on by more raspberry and red licorice.

My Thoughts

It's got a very nice, fuller body that's also vibrant, buoyant, and then the flavours here are rich but not overtly heavy. There's a nice energy and freshness about it, and I really personally liked that two-toned balance of earthiness wrapped about those dark fruits. Solid start!

2017 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge - Review

Now we're headed to the First Wines, starting with the 2017 vintage red. This is a 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot blend. It's aged 18 months in French oak barrels (60% new), aged on lees and racked once. 

Couldn't find the winemaker's notes for this one.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep Ruby, Purple Hues

Aroma: Some light soil, followed by dark raspberry and blackberry concentrate or paste, there's abit of jam and licorice in there too. It's got good richness, some floral rose scents too. With time, it opens up to more of the fruit and floral notes, ditching the earthiness, although there's alittle bit of cloves and anise. More blackcurrants with time.

Taste: Wow! Very rich and elegant here. It's dense and silky, fuller bodied, with blackberries and alittle bit of raspberries and some rose. Black licorice too. Really impressive plush richness here of the dark fruits. There's a more prominent firmness of the tannins, good structure too.

Finish: More on tobacco leaves, blackberries and mulberries. The richness persists into the finish with alot of plushness.

My Thoughts

Impressive! This has turned up the richness, there's much more depth here, really full bodied and rich dark fruit on the palate and abit of that rosy red fruit. Very plush and with firm tannins and a good structure. Into the finish there's more of an aromatic tobacco hit that's alittle spiced - matches the dark fruits, giving it a nice complexity.

2011 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge - Review

We get to the 2011 red - 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. This was aged for 18 months in the barrel on the lees with 65% new French oak, racked once

Winemaker's notes here says 2011 was a vintage of two-halves, the first half was warm and dry that induced an early vintage, and the second half was a cooler summer that gave a slower ripening with more natural acidity.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Very Deep Ruby

Aroma: Nice earthiness of soil and autumnal browned leaves, followed by dark berries of blackberries and cassis. There's an envelope of aromatic tobacco leaves too.

Taste: Noticeably very velvety, silky and elegant here. We're back to the blackcurrants, blackberries with abit of raspberries tossed in. It's almost cordial like, very rich and vibrant, it's got lots of freshness and energy. Some tobacco and clove as well, adding some earthiness.

Finish: Clean finish here. Again it's very elegant and plush, it's silky with firm tannins around those soft blackberries and raspberries with a bit of cassis here. Light clove and tobacco on the aftertaste.

My Thoughts

The freshness really stood out here - it was definitely more vibrant and forward, with a nice intensity and richness to it as well. It almost jumps out at you, but at the same time it's got a very elegant plushness and silkiness. This is more fruit forward and less earthy on the palate, so it tends alittle sweeter. The earthiness could definitely play a bigger role here.

2010 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge - Review

The last of the reds! The 2010 - 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Similarly, this was aged in the barrel on the lees for 18 months with 65% new French oak barrels, racked once.

Winemaker's notes here tell us that the 2010 vintage had a pretty moderate temperature, low rainfall, and was relatively dry, which were all ideal for full ripening and preserving the natural acidity. All things considered, the Chateau is of the opinion that this was a very good vintage.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Super Deep Ruby

Aroma: Very expressive, it's alot more perfumed, with some earthiness of soil, rich wafts of tobacco leaves. The blackcurrants here are lighter but still with a good richness. Alittle bit of rose water and some red licorice too. It's really aromatic and rich - very romantic!

Taste: Big richness! It's opened up alot on the palate with a very good expressiveness. Lots of big and super fresh notes of red fruit, raspberry led with some blackberry jams. It's very much red fruit forward. Encased in tobacco leaves once again. Incredibly silky and elegant, with an all too vibrant body - such supreme energy and tension. It leans alittle brighter, great depth, and with time more cordial-like dark fruits show up - blackberries and mulberries.

Finish: Soft tannins, more on raspberry and red licorice, backed up by some blackberry and bramble. It's soft and delicate but also colours within the lines of a firm structure. Some tobacco and clove on the aftertaste.

My Thoughts

What an absolute stunner! This was incredibly fresh and vibrant, lots of red fruits helming the charge. On the nose there's that lovely floral rosy-ness, and along the way we find earthiness in the form of aromatic tobacco leaves (less so the soil, even though we like that too). It's very elegant, with such richness and energy, and at the same time although it feels entirely luminous, you do get a sense of the soft tannins and structure towards the back, making sure it doesn't just splatter on the palate.

2019 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc - Review

With the reds done, we're on to the whites! This 2017 Blanc is made with 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Semillon. It's aged for 12 months on the lees with batonnage (the lees are stirred) in French oak barrels (50% new + 50% used from another vintage).

We don't have the winemaker's notes for this one.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Champagne, Straw

Aroma: It's almost syrupy rich, a gentle but aromatic muskiness, some hay, gooseberries, langsat, longans. There's some tinned fruit syrup in there too - tinned lychees and longans. It's mellow, lots of richness, syrupy sweetness at the back.

Taste: Really rich and fuller bodied, tinned fruit syrup sweetness, yet a very natural one, gooseberries and langsats, that muskiness persists but is fainter here. It's very mellow with an understated firmness of the tannins.

Finish: More of that tinned fruit syrup, receding but still some of that langsat and gooseberries, really rich and silky, nice fuller body, a touch of spiciness.

My Thoughts

This was really tasty - it's really rich, great fuller bodied, almost syrupy on the nose and palate, it's got some muskiness which is supported by the much richer syrupy sweetness. It's got such presence that even after four reds, this still very much holds its own. Impressive!

Our Take

Having tasted my way through the range of Le Petit 2015, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2010, 2011 & 2017, as well as the 2017 Blanc, I'm definitely seeing a trend here.

The reds share a trait of being really rich, leans abit darker, with varying forwardness of red fruit, there's always a complementary earthiness, and with age it moves from fresh soil to an aromatic tobacco. They also tend to exhibit some florals in the form of rose water which adds a romantic elegance to it. They're all very much full-bodied, have great freshness that grows with age, good energy on the body, and have very soft but firm tannins that still ensure there's structure to the otherwise common trait of being very luminous.

Although I did only have one white - the 2017 Blanc - it was also very impressive. It's got lots of body, very rich, heavily fruity and fresh, with a gentle side of muskiness. It leans sweeter, with not much in the way of acidity or minerality, almost closer to a digestif even.

The highlights for me then are the reds from the 2010 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte for its intensity and expressiveness, as well as the 2011 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte for its sheer freshness.

Kanpai!

@111hotpot