Taste Testing Two Giants Of Californian Prestige Wine From The Edge Of Sonoma Coast To The Foothills Of Napa: Flowers Winery & Quintessa – Quintessa, Illumination & Flowers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Sea View Ridge Pinot Noir
One of the most important modern wine families in the Napa Valley is the Huneeus family. The Chilean-American wine dynasty centers on the work of Agustín Huneeus Sr and his wife Valeria Huneeus.
Already major figures in the international wine business before their star estate in the US, Quintessa, was built up, the Santiago-born Agustín Huneeus Sr spent a decade as CEO of Concha y Toro which now owns some of Chile’s most significant wine brands (Casillero del Diablo, Don Melchor and the like), before running wine and spirits giant Seagram’s global wine operations from the US. The Huneeus then founded Quintessa Estate in Rutherford, Napa Valley in 1990, building it from scratch into a highly acclaimed luxury Napa Cabernet estate. Quintessa’s white-wine counterpart, Illumination, came around 2002 when Sauvignon Blanc was planted at the estate.
Founders of Huneeus Vintners, Agustín Huneeus Sr and Valeria Huneeus.
As the family’s wine business expanded, Quintessa became cornerstone to a much broader collection of estates and wine projects under the family portfolio company of Huneeus Vintners, looking beyond Rutherford for distinctive vineyard sites and producers across the American West Coast. Faust became the second major Napa Valley Cabernet project, centered on an estate vineyard in the cooler Coombsville appellation. Four years later, the family would make its most significant move beyond Napa to partner with Walt and Joan Flowers of Flowers Vineyards & Winery on the Sonoma Coast.
Today, the Huneeus family’s portfolio stretches across a collection of premium wine estates on the American West Coast, from Rutherford and Coombsville to the Sonoma Coast and Willamette Valley.
We recently spent an afternoon at Wine Clique Singapore with Diego Garay, Export Director for Huneeus Vintners, and two flights of wines from Flowers and Quintessa. Both are Californian estates within the Huneeus family’s portfolio, but they show case very different styles and approaches, in terms of grape variety, climate and place.
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How Flowers made the extreme Sonoma Coast wines viable above the fog
We began north of San Francisco, with Flowers Vineyards & Winery in the Sonoma Coast that sits by the Pacific Ocean.
The estate obtained its name from its founders, Walt and Joan Flowers, who previously ran a wholesale plant nursery in Pennsylvania. As their work required frequent trips to Oregon and California to source plants, before long, their attention was pulled by the grip of the vine west, towards the vineyards of the Pacific coast.
The couple chanced upon a particular advertisement in the classified pages of Wine Spectator, offering a remote Sonoma Coast property said to have vineyard potential.
Walt and Joan decided to buy a 321-acre Camp Meeting Ridge property and planted their first vines in 1991, concentrating on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, before completing construction of a gravity-flow winery on the property in 1997, and acquiring 327 acres of the adjacent Flowers Ranch in 1998.
Flowers sits close to one of California’s coldest stretches of ocean. Back in the late 1980s and 1990s, commercial viticulture this close to the Pacific remained largely unproven at this scale. To add to the vintner’s challenge, the terrain was highly remote, steep and exposed to a marine climate that could leave the ground too cold for reliable ripening, and generate a cold fog that obscures the sunlight.
High altitude is what makes the vineyards viable. Camp Meeting Ridge lies roughly two miles from the ocean at elevations of about 1,150 to 1,400 feet. The estate’s prized Sea View Ridge Vineyard reaches approximately 1,875 feet.
Now, cold fog forms over the Pacific and moves inland, but it generally sits below the Flowers vineyards during the growing season. Therefore the Flowers vineyards could not only receive sunlight above the fog layer while remaining exposed to the ocean’s cooling influence that extends the growing season. This combination is the source of the wines’ ripeness, bright acidity, freshness and firm structure without relying on the fuller body and higher alcohol associated with warmer vineyards farther inland. Diego also suggests that saline character of the wine is influenced by the vineyards’ proximity to the coast.
By 2009, Walt and Joan Flowers have spent two decades developing the remote estate and were in their seventies – where were ready to retire. Huneeus Vintners acquired the estate, which became their first major Californian estate beyond Napa Valley.
Under the Huneeus family, Flowers Vineyards retained its “extreme Sonoma Coast” identity and foundation of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but the stylistic direction moved towards more restraint, with lower extraction (less new oak), fermentation with indigenous yeasts, and reduced maceration time (less extraction of tannins from skin).
The winery’s range reflects two different levels of production. Flowers’ Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir combine fruit from the estate with grapes from partner vineyards farmed to Flowers’ specifications. These are the wines through which most drinkers encounter the house style.
The estate’s single-vineyard bottlings, including the Flowers Camp Meeting Ridge and Flowers Sea View Ridge, come from individual estate sites and are made in much smaller quantities.
The difference in scale is substantial. Around 34,600 cases of the 2023 Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir were produced, compared with approximately 1,900 cases of the 2023 Sea View Ridge Pinot Noir; the scarcity due to very limited vineyard land. In fact, of the estate’s combined 648 acres of property, only a small proportion of about 72 acres has been planted with vineyards, with the surrounding land remaining as magnificent coastal forests and undeveloped hillside.
Camp Meeting Ridge includes 18 acres of Chardonnay and 11 acres of Pinot Noir. At Flowers Ranch, approximately 43 acres are currently under vine, predominantly to Pinot Noir, with small parcels of Chardonnay and 1.7 acres of Pinot Meunier. Diego explained that the estate wines are sold on allocation, with demand often exceeding the quantities available for export.
Let’s have a taste of these wines.
Wine Review: Flowers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
We began with Flowers’ broader Sonoma Coast Chardonnay from 2023. This wine combines fruit from the Camp Meeting Ridge estate with fruit from partner vineyards by the coast.
Diego described 2023 as an unusually cool, sunny and prolonged growing season across Sonoma and Napa. Heavy winter rainfall had ended several years of drought, while moderate temperatures allowed the grapes to ripen slowly.
The 2023 was matured for ten months in French oak, 18% new, and bottled at 13.5% ABV.
Tasting Notes
Appearance: Straw.
Aroma: Fresh, honeyed and toasted up top with an undercurrent of cool stony minerality. Opens with ripe honeyed stone fruits – cantaloupe, quince, green apples, fresh apricot and yellow plums with a fresh citrus zest lift, alongside a green herbal edge of fennel fronds, garnished by orange blossoms and jasmine. There’s a layer of fat or oxidative richness, of toasted almond, brioche accompanying the ever-present dry citrusy backbone. With time, we get slate, wet stones and a saline coastal undercurrent. Continuing to unfold with notes of more honey and toast.
Taste: Medium bodied and quite creamy. It’s rich without weight with honey, orchard fruits, toast and nuttiness and some chalkiness for balance. Opens with a core of honey and pear cider offering vibrant acidity that develops down into a creamy, toasted leesy breadth. Lemoncurd and grapefruit peels continue to develop at the same time, into a fresh pithy grip. Theres a background of chalky minerality alongside a fine powdery sweet-nuttiness of almond meal.
Finish: Long, clean with citrus dryness and nutty stoniness. Lemon peels, toasted almond, granola, amid chalk and wet stones. Lingering grippiness of almond skin at the edge.
My Thoughts
There’s lots of impressive character in this white. The wine exhibits a great contrasting tension in being generously toasty, yet so fresh at the same time. It’s rich, melony and honeyed, with fresh citrus threading through more orchard fruits and a broad oxidative nuttiness with chalk and wet stone minerality.
Unlike the typical Californian Chardonnay which offers tons of butteriness, the richness here seems to be more nutty and leesy. Acidity is retained and perceived right till the very end, but it is balanced and rounded at the edges.
All in all, this is highly enjoyable now, but clearly has great aging potential into the next decade.
Wine Review: Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
This wine is assembled similarly to the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay – from estate-grown fruit and fruit from partner vineyards across the Sonoma Coast.
This 2023 vintage had spent 10 months in French oak, of which 20% was new, and bottled at 14.1% ABV.
Tasting Notes
Appearance: Deep ruby.
Aroma: Deep florals, perfumed, with depths of berries, whole-bunch stemmy nuances and garrigue notes. Opens with all violets, dark roses and red cherries up front, with a layer of orange peel lift. Then generous bounty of more red cherries, raspberries, black plums with black tea and other stemmy nuances alongside a woody frame of cedar. Beneath that, we have a touch of damp forest floor.
Taste: Rounded, plush and racy, with a savoury seam running under it. Opens medium-bodied, with a silky and plush texture, polished tannins with red and blue fruits – cassis, pomegranate, apricots and plum skin with just-as-present violets carrying over from the nose. Moderate racy acidity offers some structure. Then we have some sweet oak influences in vanilla and toasted coconut, then a savoury thread of sautéed porcini mushrooms and some juniper pineyness. Smooth cocoa powder with cinnamon and cloves.
Finish: Long, perfumed, gently grippy. A slightly saline coastal edge with more chalky-textured plum skins and concentrated sour plums, with light cranberries, haw berries, light cloves, black tea and some wet earth. Lingering echoes of dried violets.
My Thoughts
Very open, generous, upfront, with a substantial texture and incredibly rounded and plush tannins. I find this to have a lovely and charming perfumed floral influence, with a rich core of red and blue fruits supported by a serious backbone of earthiness, evocative garrigue notes (forest floor) and spices at the end. There’s a velvet-firm structure and sufficient acidity to make this a gourmet wine. This is currently drinking well now, but will certainly open up beautifully over the next decade.
Wine Review: Flowers Sea View Ridge Pinot Noir
The third Flowers wine we got to taste is of a single estate vineyard, also from the 2023 vintage. All of its fruit comes from Flowers’ Sea View Ridge vineyard, a high-elevation property close to the Pacific. The 2023 was matured in French oak, 25% new, and bottled at 13.5% ABV.
Diego explained that where the Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir wines combine estate and partner-vineyard fruit, Sea View Ridge isolates one coastal site and its more pronounced structural and mineral character.
As mentioned, production is highly limited at about 1,900 cases, against 34,600 cases of the Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir.
Tasting Notes
Appearance: Dark ruby.
Aroma: Initially a little reticent and austere, but gradually unfolds into velvety dark florals and polished dark fruits. Dark cherries, pomegranate, cranberries, sweet tangerine peels with just-as-present potpourri and dark rose petals. With time, we get a lightly savoury register of seaweed with a stony edge beneath.
Taste: Dense, chewy and muscular. It has a medium-plus body with real weight. Silky, chewy tannins bringing out a plush dark cherry core with pomegranate and blue plums. Supporting layer of sweet oak; vanilla, toasted coconut flakes with smooth cinnamon and cloves. Moderate, precise acidity runs the entire length. Towards the finish we get some dried fennel and a light oyster shell salinity and minerality.
Finish: Long and fresh. It continues with a deep potpourri perfume while as the heaviness and tannins resolve beautifully we are left with bright red and black currents, Ribena cordial, tart Chinese bayberry (杨梅), with light cocoa powder and spices, and a saline edge persisting.
My Thoughts
This is impressively dense, muscular while handled with velvet grace. Whereas the Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is upfront and open, this one has quite a bit of character in that it holds back initially but gracefully unfurls into power, weight, and darker and tighter fruit. It leads with dark florals and dark fruits on the nose, then deftly handled silky, velvety tannins on the palate before it resolves with a clean and perfumed finish. This is the most structured of the three with a more pronounced mineral character, and is clearly very age worthy.
This is my favourite of the trio from Flowers.
Quintessa: Winemaking on Rutherford’s eastern edge
While Flowers looks west towards the Pacific ocean, Quintessa sits inland where the floor of the Napa Valley meets the foothills of the Vaca Mountains, at the eastern edge of Rutherford. The climate here is warmer with Cabernet Sauvignon as the foundation. The wines exchange Flowers’ coastal acidity and salinity for Rutherford’s darker fruit, firmer structure and polished tannins.
And while Flowers producers individual vineyard bottlings, Quintessa treats its 280 acres as the equivalent of a château, where it farms five Bordeaux varieties from various parcels, vinifies them separately, then bring them together in one principal estate red.
This approach is central to Quintessa’s acclaim. These are full-bodied and ageable Napa wines where wine writers repeatedly return to a complex blend of graphite, iron, dried herbs and cedar, along with the dry, powder-fine tannins associated with Rutherford. Today, the Quintessa estate red is ranked amongst some of the most profound wines of Napa Valley, praised for its complexity and longevity – with a drinking window that could extend well into 25 years or so.
The estate was founded in 1989, when Agustín and Valeria Huneeus bought what was then one of the last large unplanted properties in this part of the Napa Valley. The land had previously operated as a cattle ranch.
Valeria, a microbiologist and viticulturist with a doctorate, directed the development of the vineyard, planting predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by Merlot and smaller parcels of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. There was interestingly some Carménère, planted to honour the family’s Chilean origins. Diego explained to us that the spicy, savoury fruit is used sparingly and only when the late-ripening variety reaches sufficient maturity, adding black pepper, warm spice and chocolate.
Only about 160 of Quintessa’s 280 acres are currently planted with vines, divided into 26 blocks. The rest of the estate includes 100 acres of woodland, as well as the lake, winery and land bordering the Napa River. The vineyard runs from valley floor and benchland to terraces cut into the lower slopes of the Vaca Mountains. Its soils also change with the terrain, from alluvial deposits nearer the river to volcanic ash and cobbles on the eastern hillsides.
Quintessa’s 160 planted acres are divided into 26 blocks that follow the changing terrain – spreading across the property and running from the alluvial bench beside the Napa River through the rocky central hills around Dragon’s Lake to the volcanic ground towards the Vaca foothills. The estate associates the lower bench with darker fruit and breadth, the eastern volcanic ash with fragrance and chalkier tannins, and the rockier central hills with structure.
While Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for close to 90% of the vines, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carménère and Petit Verdot are planted alongside to provide smaller blending components. Each block is harvested and vinified separately before the components are blended.
What’s impressive about Quintessa is the fragmented scale in which over 100 separate lots of fruit are harvested, vinified and aged separately before being assembled into the estate red wine.
This begins with each block being farmed separately. A single block may even be harvested four, five or six times as individual sections of fruit reach maturity. According to Quintessa, the estate has used organic farming since its first plantings, and biodynamic methods relatively early on, before formal certification came around the 2020s. Sheep graze among the vines during the growing season, compost is produced on the property and there are even owl boxes that provide a form of rodent control.
Once harvested, the grapes enter the gravity-fed winery at roof level. After sorting, ramps carry the fruit into oak, stainless-steel or concrete fermenters. Fermentation takes place with native yeasts, while maceration generally lasts between 20 and 26 days. Some lots have also been fermented in individual French oak barrels since the 2014 vintage.
(Source: David Chao)
Every parcel remains separate after fermentation. The individual wines are even aged independently in French oak for up to two years before blending begins. Recent vintages have generally spent around 22 months in barrel, with approximately 60 per cent new French oak. A small proportion may also be aged in terracotta amphorae.
Quintessa’s estate red is thus assembled without treating the property as uniform. Multiple picking dates and fermentation vessels can turn 26 vineyard blocks into more than 100 separate lots. In one documented vintage, the team worked through approximately 150 barrel samples over the course of a year, gradually narrowing them into the final blend.
After the blend is assembled, the Quintessa estate blend is bottled and held for another year before release. It is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Carménère included according to how each variety performed that season.
(Source: Matt Cavano)
And then there’s Quintessa’s Illumination white wine, which has a level of prestige unusual for a Californian white. The estate Sauvignon Blanc occupies a parcel within Las Casas, in the low, central part of the property beside the estate’s lake (Dragon’s Lake). This is at a lower elevation and is one of the cooler positions of the estate compared to the surrounding warmer predominantly Cabernet blocks, and it is where clay-rich soils and close proximity to the lake help preserve acidity.
Planting of Sauvignon Blanc began in 2002, with 2006 being the first vintage of the Illumination Sauvignon Blanc, intended to stand beside the estate red. The Huneeus family described this in Bordelais terms: it was fitting to introduce a white that could accompany its Cabernet-led blend in the way that several Bordeaux châteaux produce both a grand vin and a dry white.
In an earlier account, Agustín Huneeus Sr was said to be interested in the white wines of the Loire Valley and wanted to make a Sauvignon Blanc that he could drink at home with friends and family. He and Valeria also regarded Sauvignon Blanc as a variety that was particularly transparent to where it was grown. This led them to plant a small parcel in 2002 to test that idea.
As mentioned, this wine has a level of prestige unusual for Californian white wines, with near-perfect scores from major American wine writers. Its international route to market is also unprecedented for an American white wine. After a trial allocation of 100 cases in 2021, the Illumination became the first Napa Valley white wine to be distributed through La Place de Bordeaux, a prestigious network of courtiers and négociants that distribute Bordeaux’s classified growths, and increasingly, fine wines from elsewhere.
Illumination uses white grapes from several vineyard sites. The estate’s Las Casas is the most important for being the estate-grown lot, composed of Sauvignon Blanc Musqué – a clone of Sauvignon Blanc that carries a more pronounced perfumed and tropical fruit character, which Diego describes as pineapples and guava. More Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from southern Napa and from the Bennett Valley in Sonoma, while old-vine Sémillon from Calistoga at the northernmost end of the Napa Valley is used to broaden the texture and soften the sharper edges of the Sauvignon Blanc.
The white wine is blended with the same parcel-by-parcel logic as the red. The grapes are harvested by hand, whole-cluster pressed and fermented with native yeasts. Individual lots are divided among new and neutral French oak, acacia barrels, stainless-steel barrels, ceramic amphorae and egg-shaped concrete fermenters. The components are also aged separately before blending, allowing the team to adjust the balance between aromatic lift, acidity, savoury weight and oak according for each vintage.
Let’s now give these wines a taste!
Wine Review: Illumination by Quintessa
We opened our Quintessa flight with the Illumination.
The 2025 growing season was long and cool, allowing fruit from the various vineyards to ripen at a measured pace and retain their acidity. Harvest began at dawn on 25 August with Sauvignon Blanc Musqué from Las Casas, continued through the partner vineyards in southern Napa and Bennett Valley, and finished on 29 September.
After whole-cluster pressing, the wine was fermented with native yeast in new and neutral French oak, acacia barrels, stainless steel, ceramic amphorae and concrete eggs. The final blend combines fruit from all these lots.
Tasting Notes
Appearance: Bright straw.
Aroma: Luminous, citrus-led with lifted white florals. Opens with bright notes of citrus oils, expressed lemon and mandarin peels and zest, honey suckles, citrus blossoms unfolding into honey, gooseberry and juicy white peaches, accompanied by green lemongrass notes and toasted almonds. There’s also some struck matches and prominent rocky flinty notes that unfold into salinity with time.
Taste: Ripe, tropical and textural. A creamy mouthfeel delivers the crisp citrus core of lemon curd, grapefruits and lime, quickly evolving towards stone and tropical fruits – Saturn peaches, nectarine, guava and quince. There’s a firm and lively acidic tension against the stone fruit. All seamlessly integrated into the backbone of savoury herbs and minerality – slate and flint with mint, rosemary and thyme. More lemon peels with a fine pithy grip.
Finish: Long, savoury and mineral. Acidity easing into light butteriness and toasted almonds. Stone fruits fading into citrus pithiness, slate and indistinct savoury herbs.
My Thoughts
This is truly luminous, with stone and tropical fruit, savoury herbs, minerality, nuttiness and a firm mouthwatering acidity that gradually softens into creaminess at the end. It’s seamless and integrated, with a much more substantial texture than conventional New World Sauvignon Blanc, with a solid structure of a barrel-shaped white, and multiple tensions of fruit against acid and ripeness against herbs.
Wine Review: Quintessa 2023
The 2023 is the latest release Quintessa’s estate red.
It comprises 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Carménère, 2% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. The wine was aged for 22 months in French oak, 60% of which was new, with 3% of the wine aged in terracotta amphorae.
Diego described 2023 as one of Napa’s strongest vintages in the past 15 years. California had previously been through three years of drought before heavy rain arrived during the winter preceding the 2023 vintage. At Quintessa, the rain replenished Dragon’s Lake and soaked the estate’s deeper soils, leaving the vines with a healthy reserve of water for the growing season ahead. The cool, wet spring and summer, with relatively stable temperatures, also gave the grapes more time to ripen gradually without accumulating sugar too quickly while retaining acidity.
Tasting Notes
Appearance: Mahogany red.
Aroma: Dense, complex and brooding with dark fruit over fresh earthiness. Layers upon layers of cassis, blackcurrant and blackberry complimented by dried florals in potpourri, dried roses, lavender. A frame of cedar, sweet tobacco ribbons, graphite and earthiness, garnished by a thread of cool liquorice and dried Mediterranean herbs.
Taste: Powerful and structured, but with well-polished fine tannins. Full-bodied with intensely dark fruits – cassis, blackcurrant, dark cherries and black berries leading into soft sweet oak influences of vanilla, cedar, cacao, baking spices and cloves, and then a touch of earthy tobacco ribbons. Acidity is balanced. Tannins are grippy and firm but properly calibrated and fine-grained against the generosity of the fruit. A further distinctive layer of graphite with a ferrous edge. Finish: Long, drying and spiced. Gradually resolving grippiness of plum skin, dark cherries, with the soft sweetness of vanilla, liquorice and warm spices on the back of the throat.
My Thoughts
By the standards of a young Napa Cabernet, this is impressively layered and already showing a great deal of complexity and layers within a serious Bordeaux-esque structure. It is substantially raised in new oak at 60+%, but the oakiness serves to provide more support and substance to the depth of dark fruit and distinctive minerality.
Compared to a standard Napa Cabernet, this seems to offer a judicious amount of extraction with structured fruit and spice. Compared to the back vintage of Quintessa 2018 – as we will turn to next – this is significantly more generous in oak influence.
Wine Review: Quintessa 2018
We were generously given the opportunity to taste the Quintessa 2023 with a back vintage of the Quintessa 2018, to demonstrate how Quintessa develops beautifully with just 5 years.
It comprises of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot, 2% Carménère and 1% Petit Verdot. The wine then spent 20 months in French oak, 62% of it new.
The 2018 was a very moderate and even season that came after five relatively warm years in Napa. The weather remained moderate through spring, summer and harvest with few extremes and no sustained heat that forced the estate to accelerate picking. The grapes could remain on the vines until each parcel was ready, and harvest proceeded steadily from 18 September to 25 October.
Tasting Notes
Appearance: Black cherry.
Aroma: Open and giving, with rich dark florals and fruit. Evocative top notes of violets and lavender with black cherries, cassis and other dark berry fruits, blended with shaved dark chocolate that lean into cedar and light tobacco. Some tilled soil earthiness, then a light rusticity of dried porcini, black tea, and with time, some vellichor of old leather-bound books.
Taste: Complete and fully resolved. It’s amazing how tannins have completely softened to the point where they now only offer structure and no austerity. It reads like an open book – a dark fruited core of cassis, black cherry, fresh blue plums, even some red apple skins, with a thread of fresh violet running through. Oakiness has been transmuted into smooth cocoa and cedar, sarsaparilla, light stemmy nuances with mint, rosemary and sage. A line of chalky minerality with an iron edge beneath, with integrated tertiary earthiness of polished antique wood and old library books.
Finish: Medium-plus in length. Fading notes of plums, it freshens up relatively quickly here with chalk and mineral tones, five spice, mint and rosemary, soft coconut flakes and cocoa powder.
My Thoughts
This drinks like an open book. It readily offers generous and concentrated dark fruits within a harmonious matrix of earthiness and minerality. At the same time, tannins have been completely resolved. It seems that the oak (more prominently shown in the 2023) has been rationalised into beautiful earthy tertiary notes.
Drinking the Quintessa just 5 years apart, you can really see how quickly this develops into an immensely pleasurable serious red Cab. This is my absolute favourite of the trio, though judging from how the Quintessa could develop so impressively within just 5 years, I’d be so eager to revisit the Quintessa 2023 in 2028.
@CharsiuCharlie
