White rum perfectly embodies the spirit and quality of a distillery; it is the ultimate reflection of a land and a climate, an environment and the work of man who will do his best to reveal the expression of a terroir through his production.

Unlike aged rums, which are a completely different science, you don't cheat with white rum, you don't disguise it with a finish or sauce (unless of course you play with sweetening ) . This is also perhaps one of the reasons that pushes the majority of molasses rum producers to discolor their old rum and sell it as 'white'. Beyond consumption habits, isn't there a more embarrassing question of real taste interest behind this?

This week, we will head to the Carbet distillery for an exhaustive overview of Neisson's white rums. An opportunity to talk about terroir and to give a nod to Mother Nature, without whom our rums would be devoid of singularity and presence... the year 2017 will be blank or will not be!

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Neisson | white as a standard

Throughout its history, the Neisson distillery has continued to highlight its terroir by offering, above all, a quality white rum, even going so far in 2011 as to work with its own yeasts, a unique case in the profession. If historically, the distillery has always offered two whites (at 50 and 55°), it was not until 2001 and the occasion of their 70th anniversary that things changed: while the fashion was for low alcohol, the distillery released a 70° 'brut de colonne' white, a distillate until then reserved for friends as well as rooster breeders and quimboiseurs. The first bottles did not yet bear the name L'Esprit, but its success pushed Neisson to permanently incorporate it into its catalogue by giving it its baptismal name in memory of tradition. In 2007, on the occasion of a new anniversary, Neisson wanted to revive another custom, by offering (well before anyone else) the first white rum in history offered in a carafe with "Rhum par Neisson" at 52.5°: in the 30s/40s, when the entire economy still revolved around distilleries, it was customary to serve white rum in a carafe when receiving guests of honor. With a new success, the distillery continued to produce this white rum but this time by packaging it in a bottle, with the secret wish that each consumer would fill their carafe once empty, no doubt to honor their hosts and perpetuate the conviviality. It is this same conviviality that will be at the origin of the rehoboams released in 2011, for the 80th anniversary of the house. While the fashion is for wine in a Bag In Box (wine bag), Neisson wants to show its difference with a 4.5 liter glass bottle accompanied by its swing, and to hell with greed; the white range (as well as the extra old) will each be released in 80 copies. At the end of 2016, Neisson released L'Esprit Bio at 66° and continues its conversion to all organic…  (text taken from the article 'Collector Neisson' published in the magazine Fine Spirits #12).

terroir rums | Agriculture put back at the center

Like wine, rum is a reflection of a land and a climate, an environment and the work of man who will do his best to reveal the expression of a terroir through his production. And even if the exact definition of terroir may divide experts, no one questions the influence of natural elements (soil, subsoil, climate and topography); elements considered independent of the will of man, who basically only remains at the service and listening to his land. A farmer's work where rum is only the result of an activity, of his work. Provided that we put our heart and reason into it.

And what better than agricultural rum to highlight these differences? Neisson is a pioneer and used to make his competitors laugh by using the word "terroir" before anyone else. Thus the distillery does not release a white, but whites that reflect their different plots and result from the different factors mentioned above, and which through clever blends will tend to reveal the expression of a terroir :

The 50 and 55° white agricultural rums come from plots located on the North Caribbean coast of Martinique, and more precisely from the communes of Saint-Pierre (for 60%) and Carbet (40%).
The lands are characterized by their strong sunshine and low rainfall (less than 1500 mm/year). The daily temperature amplitude is very high during Lent, the harvest period. The soils are little evolved on volcanic pumice from Mount Pelée, with a sandy-clay texture . Neisson even goes so far as to communicate on the composition of their blend in its media:

Sugar cane varieties used
Blue Cane B69.566: 80%
Crystalline: 9%
Cane R583: 5%
Red Cane B64.277: 3%
Cane R579: 2%
Reed Cane B59.92: 1%

The vintages at the origin of the 50% and 55% whites undergo maturation in stainless steel vats for a minimum period of 8 weeks, during which they are stirred, aerated and gradually reduced to the final degree.

Rhum par Neisson 52.5° is exclusively produced from the sugar cane plots of La Thieubert , planted on the edge of the distillery near the seaside . Of volcanic origin, the soils are alluvial with a sandy-clayey texture . The influence of the Caribbean coastline is found here through extreme drought as well as exceptional sunshine conditions. Rhum par Neisson is the result of a long maturation process of more than 4 months.

Esprit 70°,  first created for the distillery's 70th anniversary, is produced exclusively from La Thieubert cane in Le Carbet (blue and crystalline cane). Without reduction or wetting, it comes directly from the Savalle distillation column which is specially adjusted for the occasion. It is softened in stainless steel vats for 6 months and then bottled, as every year, as the distillery's anniversary approaches.

L'Esprit Bio 66° This vintage is the first organic white agricultural rum AOC Martinique, ever produced on the island. Grown using organic farming methods, the red canes (B64), cinnamon (B82.033) and zicak (B59) are harvested at the end of the campaign following the recommendations of Ecocert Annex VIII, on the La Thieubert plots .

The Canne Bio rum dressed by Tatanka was released on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of La Maison du Whisky in two formats (offered in 750 copies of each): the first is a white brut de colonne rum, without reduction released at 66°; the second is a reduced version at 55°. At the time of ordering the bottles, Neisson had not yet received the full approval to be able to benefit from the mention "Organic rum", hence the already flattering term "Cannes bio" painted on the bottle, but which only refers to sugar cane. By chance, the precious sesame will arrive shortly before the Whisky Live in Paris, leaving just enough time for Neisson to affix an additional sticker on the back of the bottles mentioning "Rhum Agricole Bio", thus completing the circle. This special vintage was produced from zicak canes (B59) harvested on the Desnel plots in Gros Morne especially for Neisson.

Organic farming | towards respect for the earth

Neisson embarked on the organic adventure 5 years ago (land conversion began in 2013), the time it took to convert part of their agricultural land and move from conventional (and already respectful) agriculture to organic agriculture; five years spent crisscrossing a path strewn with pitfalls with, as a key, the famous AB certification .

The results were not long in coming and the living organisms present in the soil developed like never before, signs of healthy soil and an environment conducive to life. The flora was not left out, even if the weeds had a field day, growing even more beautifully in a climate already conducive to their gigantism; thus in the first year, Neisson went from 40 hours of human intervention per hectare for a conventional field to 600 hours for its organic plots, generating significant costs but which never undermined their determination to carry out this project.

Today, the organic surface area at Neisson is approaching 4 hectares, with the idea of ​​gradually covering all the fields surrounding the distillery. The technical constraints are nevertheless very heavy, because it is the rum that is certified organic at Neisson and not just the sugar cane; Thus the approval was issued for the entire production, from the cane to the bottling and it is, for example, necessary before each harvest to exhaust the Savalle column of its alcohol, to clean it as well as the fermentation tanks. It is only after these interventions that the rum from the organic plots will be able to acquire the much-deserved certification and its own characteristics which will have never given so much meaning to the word terroir. Enough blah blah, let's get to the tasting starting with the latest arrivals, before finishing with the classic range...

Also read: Organic in Questions , and an interview with Grégory Vernant

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Neisson Canne Bio / 66°

A vintage dressed by Tatanka for the 60th anniversary of LMDW; it is a white rum whose sugar cane (zicak cane/B59) comes from plots located in Gros Morne, belonging to Desnel and cultivated especially for Neisson. It is therefore a rum produced from a single variety of sugar cane. 

The dress is colorless and topped with a greasy disc on the surface.
The nose is very vegetal, with notes of cane and fresh herbs (steamed cane? with a slightly heavy smell), spices (nutmeg) and citrus peel (lime zest) which bring a nice freshness. Predominantly green, heady and spicy, the rum reveals flowers still in bud. It seems to keep this vegetal side with rest, just letting glimpse a few small exotic fruits. The more time passes, the more the cane appears ripe, heavy and as if cooked.

On the palate the attack is powerful and lively, very fresh and concentrated, very tangy and at the same time quite sweet. Tonic, on a green cane and lemon, it is very very fresh even minty, with this impression of biting into a red radish, with a little spicy and peppery side which comes to strengthen the mouth, but always with enough sweetness to balance the whole. an exuberant and eccentric rum, very rich.

The finish is long, always in this tangy and vegetal dynamic and always refreshing, and offers a little more pulpy and more floral clemency, sweeter too, and spicy. Return of the cane for a final recital.

A very vegetal rum on the nose and very refreshing on the palate with a very nice concentration, but which perhaps lacks a little more diversity. A rum with a strong character. Note: 84

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Neisson Canne Bio / 55°

The same rum from the same cane as the 66° version above, but brought down to 55°.

The dress brings little change but the nose offers more delicacy and a beautiful concentration despite the dilution. The profile appears less vegetal than the version at 66, with always this side of steamed cane and an atmosphere always green, but this time much more 'easy' with a more pulpy and sweeter sugar cane. There is also more fruit in this rum, more lightness, delicacy and seduction. With the rest a sweet smell of coconut that caresses the nose, accompanied by darted zests.

The palate is suave and delicate, even mellow, and offers a superb aromatic concentration mixing sweet cane, anise and warmly spiced citrus fruits. It is very pleasant and balanced, cozy. The rum goes towards a very fresh, almost minty, and gourmet finish, always sweet.

A reduced rum that offers more accuracy and balance than the brut de colonne version. So unless you dilute the previous version sparingly, this 55 version will charm its audience more (but perhaps less the thrill seeker). Score: 85

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Neisson L’Esprit Bio / 66°

This certified organic white is also a brut de colonne, but this time it is made from sugar cane harvested on the plots located around the distillery (red cane B64, cinnamon B82.033 and zicak B59).

It's a bit like version 2.0 of L'Esprit that we knew until now, but in an organic version and distilled at 66° and no longer at 70° as traditionally. It will gradually take the latter's place, the time for Neisson to convert all of its plots to organic farming. 2,600 bottles are currently offered for the local market and 1,500 for export (early 2017).

The color is crystalline, fat and topped with a confident disc.
On the nose, it is admirably fresh and rarely has a white rum seemed so complex and brought out aromas of cane and lemon. The 66° goes wonderfully and the cane is beautiful and well at the center of the nose, vegetal and sweet, and even still rooted in its terroir (earth); it quickly offers delicate and bewitching floral notes, of wildly fragrant white flowers. It is now the lemon that intrudes a little more into the tasting; fresh and even icy, it is rich at heart and penetrating.

On the palate, the attack is rich and creamy and once again very -very- fresh; the cane blends very harmoniously with the citrus fruits and especially the lemon which seems to literally explode in the mouth. An ultra-aromatic fireworks display with an icy/glacial lemony side which sublimates the mouth and really highlights the rest: everything is superbly melted and the lemon does not only bring freshness and acidity, it also knows how to be candied and sweet and greatly contributes to the generous atmosphere of this rum in the mouth which bursts religiously; notes of white pepper bring pep but always harmoniously with a sweetness which shows all the balance and complexity of this white, a work of art in the mouth. With the impression of having an icy mint which accompanies this lemon and the cane. The finish is endless, always on this icy (and minty) lemon which becomes candied and allows to finish the tasting on a note that could not be more pleasant and serene, with the good memory of a magnified cane and a respected terroir. The empty glass brings back to life a lime via its zest of exemplary maturity. Oral orgasm guaranteed and exquisite white rum.

Even better than the classic? The nose is both captivating and electrifying (cane, fragrant white flower and icy lemon). The palate is an explosion of flavors, an orgy of aromas and an ode to cane with always this very -very- refreshing iced lemon and a sweetness that makes the tasting generous and endless. If you had to choose between L'Esprit classique and L'Esprit bio, the choice would be difficult, but the organic would still win with a more aromatic rum and a palate with electrifying freshness. The alcohol is once again very well integrated and the 4° less than the previous Esprit make this rum an eau-de-vie to be tasted pure and with tenfold pleasure. Generous and endlessly good, an orgasmic white. Note: 91

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Let’s continue with the white rums from Neisson, this time with the rest of the range…

Le Rhum Blanc par Neisson / 52,5°

Made from canes from the La Thieubert plots, this white has matured for over 4 months, during which time the wines are stirred and aerated daily. This is followed by a slow and meticulous reduction. Initially available in carafe form, it has only been distributed in bottles for several years.

Crystalline, oily and opulent dress, The white rum by Neisson.
On the nose, the rum is of a captivating and charming delicacy, very fragrant, on a very fruity and freshly aniseed cane, full of sugar, mature and all in finesse. Neisson already excels in the finesse of its woodiness on old rums, but this white reveals another mastery that leaves one dreaming, just as seductive and impressive. We have the impression of being in front of the very essence of the cane, its fibrous heart that would have been pressed to its paroxysm, a cane brandy in all its authenticity, and in all its splendor. A fruity and very soft veil, sweet, of small red fruits (grenadine) floats above the glass and gives a sensation of fullness. Magnificent.

On the palate, it is suave, silky, round and very rich; the fresh cane explodes and caresses the entire mouth, all in control and sensuality. The rum brings out vegetal notes of fresh anise, accompanied by ripe fruits for a round and gourmet mouth where the cane is queen, in a homogeneous and very complex melted mixture. The finish is long, from the rhizomes to the feather dusters for an assumed return to the sources, liquorice; we smell the cane and nothing more normal for a white rum. A must.

An institution for any rum lover, even better pure than accompanied, this white is in the league of the very greats, and combines perfume, intensity and complexity. Velvet in the mouth and dreams in the head. The perfect balance, and a nose to die for. Note: 90

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Le Rhum Blanc par Neisson / 55°

A blend of whites from canes that come from plots located in the communes of Saint-Pierre and Carbet. Maturation lasts at least 8 weeks during which they are stirred, aerated and gradually reduced to the final degree of 50 and 55°.

Crystalline color, oily disc, eau-de-vie atmosphere.
On the nose, the rum is more austere than the 52.5° (who wouldn't be?). Initially quite soft and restrained on the first nose, we can sense citrus fruits arriving that brighten the nose and give it the appearance of a ti'punch. The more time passes, the more the citrus fruits become present, all fresh as if to enhance the sweet smells of cane that escape from the glass, of earth, and with a sweetness that is once again very pleasant. Unlike the 52.5 which is a perfume, this 55° white offers a more classic white but all the while knowing how to remain intense.

On the palate, the attack is smooth and sweet, harmoniously mixing a very fresh lemon cane, liquorice and sugar. Rich and more intense than the 52.5, this rum speaks more of the power than its little brother and offers more body, roughness in the mouth. The finish is long and tasty, with a good memory of citrus fruits and their sweet skin.

More liquorice and vegetal than the Neisson 52.5°, this white is complementary and offers a more down-to-earth vision of white agricultural rum, more imposing but still with a very nice intensity of flavors. Note: 83

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L’Esprit par Neisson / 70°

For 15 years now, the Neisson distillery has been offering this brut de colonne rum, produced exclusively from canes from the La Thieubert plots in Carbet (blue and crystalline canes). Neither reduced nor moistened, it is bottled as it comes out of the Savalle distillation column. Then softened in stainless steel vats for 6 months and then bottled, it represents the spirit of the house and concentrates all its authenticity.

The nectar of the gods, crystalline, and as imposing as its aged counterpart, this white offers a fat disc on the surface and thousands of tears on the walls.
On the nose, never has a white agricultural rum seemed so concentrated and at the same time so sweet. It is opulent and enjoyable, brutal and affectionate; the flowers and exotic fruits explode on the nose, reminiscent of 52.5° but in an XXL version and with kilos of citrus fruits on top. The alcohol is very well integrated given the staggering figure announced on the bottle, and we say to ourselves that in terms of authenticity we can hardly do better, perhaps as well, and even then. The alcohol necessarily hides things, but we must admit that it lets out an astonishing and unprecedented aromatic richness, an incredible finesse where the citrus fruits seem to take up a little more space with time, as if confined in a mature cane.

On the palate, the attack is not only creamy, it seems to literally melt and even evaporate on the tongue before spreading over the palate and throughout the mouth, depositing a resinous layer that seems to melt all the aromas: sugar cane, citrus fruits, flowers, exotic fruits, sugar, acidity, freshness but also a dash of liquorice; it is a festival of aromas, a fireworks display of flavors, a mouth explosion that provides an unsuspected pleasure. Here is a sugar cane brandy in all its splendor, far surpassing simple rum to touch the divine, to touch a piece of sky. One wonders how far Neisson's sugar canes rise, to the sky? into space?? because it is much more than aerial, it is spatial. In any case, the sequel is endless and will prolong the pleasure for a long time, in a complexity and a dazzling richness, which no one will be able to compete with, let it be said.

It's simple, never has a 70° brandy seemed so refined and elegant. It is a model, a unique case that should be tried at least once in a lifetime, but which should never be abused (yes the 70° will have their effect). This is the beginning of life, the foundation of the cane and the beginnings of authenticity. Note: 88

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

From the folks behind DuRhum, Velier, and more, comes a premium online marketplace for rum enthusiasts by rum enthusiasts! Do check out www.rowspirits.fr for more great content and iconic rums!